Native American Hoop Dancers Converge on Phoenix FEBRUARY 2007 Fun 14Things to do on the Reservations Departments Reservation Guide 2 DEAR EDITOR 3 ALL WHO WANDER online arizonahighways.com FRUITFUL FUN Kids of all ages Many Nations dash for sweet treats during the True love triumphs on Native American, Spanish, Mexican and European Arizona’s ancient cultures protect their traditions the Canyon’s Rim. “Fruit Scramble” event at the 4th 24 Portfolio: Rock Art influences have made Arizona one of the Annual Natoni Horse Race on february 2007 while offering insight and adventures to newcomers The ancients left secrets from their world behind, 4 VIEWFINDER most culturally rich states in the country. This the Navajo Indian Reservation. but took the key with them. Great photographers month, discover Arizona’s Native American See story, page 16. TOM BEAN BY SCOTT THYBONY / PHOTOGRAPHS BY TOM TILL expect the unexpected. traditions at arizonahighways.com and click on FRONT COVER Navajo our February “Trip Planner” for an expanded hoop dancer Tyrese Jensen, 7, 8 Delight or Defense? 5 TAKING THE OFF-RAMP competes in the 16th Annual A writer examines the mystery of the 32 Hoop It Up guide to visit Arizona’s Indian nations. Arizona oddities, attractions World Championship Hoop Southwest’s intricate fortress cities of stone. A championship contest draws Native American dancers and pleasures. HUMOR Our writer takes his hat off to Arizona. Dance Contest held at the Heard BY LAWRENCE W. CHEEK to perfect a new art with an old message. WEEKEND GETAWAY Bond with fellow Museum in downtown Phoenix. BY LORI K. BAKER / PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEFF KIDA 42 ALONG THE WAY See story, page 32. JEFF KIDA Quest for perfect camp coffee. birders at a southeastern Arizona B&B. 16 Tradition Triumphs BACK COVER A hiker amounts EXPERIENCE ARIZONA Plan a trip Hooves pound, hearts flutter and the ground 36 Blood Enemies 44 HIKE OF THE MONTH to a Tiny Tim on the window "sill" with our calendar of events. shakes at a Navajo horse race. A tragedy of the Apache Wars pitted two consummate Agua Fria trek offers a fitful of Los Gigantes Buttes Arch near BY LEO W BANKS PHOTOGRAPHS BY TOM BEAN stream, black boulders, the Lukachukai Mountains on contents . / warriors against fate and each other. the Navajo Indian Reservation. BY PETER ALESHIRE / ILLUSTRATION BY BRAD HOLLAND scattered ruins and rock art. See story, page 24. TOM TILL 22 Reservation Guide 46 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE n To order a print of this photograph, Fish, raft, shop, explore: 14 great things 40 Protecting Pronghorn Progeny A remembered childhood and see information on opposite page. to do in Arizona’s Indian nations. Sonoran pronghorn lovers shelter a beleaguered desert small-town pleasures await a BY MARILYN HAWKES / PHOTOGRAPH BY JACK DYKINGA survivor. BY DEXTER K. OLIVER / PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN HERVERT writer on some laid-back roads from Heber through Holbrook. Photographic Prints Available n Prints of some photographs are available for purchase, as designated in captions. To order, call toll- free (866) 962-1191 or visit www.magazineprints.com. Loved the Poems Your Arizona Highways December 2006 edition is outstanding. The pictures and, in particular, the poems FEBRUARY 2007 VOL. 83, NO. 2 all who wander all were excellent. Do you think you could republish the pictures and these poems in a stand-alone booklet Publisher WIN HOLDEN format? These would be outstanding gifts. Last but not Editor PETER ALESHIRE Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN least, could you create for your magazine a set of articles Web/Research Editor SALLY BENFORD focusing on the individual Arizona Indian tribes? Book Division Editor BOB ALBANO Books Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL — Paul F. Dougher, Gilbert Special Projects Editor JOBETH JAMISON Love Whew. So glad you liked the poems. If we get a good response, Editorial Administrator NIKKI KIMBEL Editorial Assistant PAULY HELLER dear editor we’ll consider doing more — maybe even a book that combines scenic Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER photography and poetry. I was sweating whether or not readers on the Photography Editor JEFF KIDA would like the poems. Sometimes, being the editor is a walk along the Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY edge — but then, the view is much better there. — Peter Aleshire, Editor Art Assistant DIANA BENZEL-RICE Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY Edge Production Director MICHAEL BIANCHI Pam and Winford celebrate the persistence Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON Poetry — Ugh! pothunters plundering land designated for addition to of love overlooking the Grand Canyon. Webmaster VICKY SNOW I have been a subscriber for more than 10 the Petrified Forest National Park. At least that’s what Director of Sales & Marketing KELLY MERO years. I once read it cover to cover. Now I I remind myself. We publish stories about wonderful AS I CLIMBED ABOARD the Grand Canyon Railway train with a Then Winford’s divorced first wife took the kids and moved Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN arizonahighways.com don’t. I initially was disappointed when and pristine places hoping to inspire visits to those randomly selected scattering of strangers, I didn’t expect much. to the South, 2,000 miles from where Pam had put down deep by Peter Aleshire, editor @ Finance Director BOB ALLEN several sections were relegated to the places to find solace and a sense of preservation and I had my mind on the Grand Canyon, not the two-hour trundle roots in San Diego. Information Technology CINDY BORMANIS Internet Web site, then the format appreciation. — Ed. on the train through juniper and grassland. So I settled into the So he made the hard choice. He followed his kids. He left Pam in editor changed, now it seems to be on writing. Inquiries or orders Toll-free: (800) 543-5432 refurbished railway car, with its well-stocked bar, amiable strang- San Diego. Acts of Kindness on State Route 77 Phoenix area or outside the U.S. (602) 712-2000 December 2006 was the capper. I have no Or visit arizonahighways.com ers and big windows. They died inside, far from one another. interest in reading poetry in Arizona Recently, my husband, who had just Immediately, Birdie bustled through the half-full car, exuding Seeking solace, she undertook a trip to the Grand Canyon, hop- Highways! Also, I don’t like Peter Aleshire’s had major surgery, and I were moving For Corporate or Trade Sales Dolores Field (602) 712-2045 good cheer. A combination tour guide, bartender and enabler, ing that so vast a space would shrink her grief to its proper size. Letters to the Editor [email protected] flowery, contrived and affected writing to Tucson for treatment at the Arizona 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85009 Birdie happily dispensed drinks, jokes and Canyon tidbits in It didn’t. It only made her miss him more. She saw condors style. Is the magazine trying to save Cancer Center. We were thoroughly equal measure. and thought how much he would have loved to see them. She fed money by getting double duty out of the enjoying a fine autumn drive south on Governor Sitting quietly, I covertly studied my fellow passengers, fasci- squirrels and thought how he would have laughed at their antics. JANET NAPOLITANO editor? State Route 77 until, at the bottom of Salt Director, Department of Transportation nated as always by the pinball dynamics of people bouncing off She studied diagrams of the rock layers in the Canyon wall and Larry Weaver, Show Low River Canyon, we had a flat tire. VICTOR M. MENDEZ unfamiliar bumpers. thought how it would have fascinated him. I just fell off the edge. But wait, there was no poetry Almost simultaneously, a young man ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION BOARD A German couple sat off by themselves, looking out the win- She went home, bleeding but resigned to live with the wound. in the January issue — just lots of aerial photography. stepped out of a pickup next to us saying, Chairman James W. Martin dow and making soft, secret comments. He was a beer stein, she Then one day, all dappled with light, Winford came back. Vice Chairman Joe Lane And no February flourishes. Oh, wait. March will be all “Would you like a hand changing that?” A Members S.L. Schorr, Delbert Householder, was light on the water. They didn’t fit, but nothing else made sense. about pollinators and poppies. Very flowery. Drat. — Ed. wave of relief and appreciation swept over Robert M. Montoya, Felipe Andres Zubia, A balding man, a harried woman and three jumping-bean So she asked him to return to the Canyon with her, to see it William J. Feldmeier us. The young man and his girlfriend not kids took up one set of seats — the kids frenetic, the parents for the first time. Preserving the State’s Heritage only changed the tire, but also followed International Regional Magazine Association fatalistic. The train came then to the Canyon, to the edge, to the begin- 2005, 2004, 2003, 2001, 2000 Magazine of the Year I’m a longtime subscriber to your us to Globe in case we had any additional An elderly couple, impeccably dressed for an outing, alternated ning of things, friends of the moment and the circumstance. magazine and a fairly recent newcomer to trouble. In Globe, the busy staff at the tire Western Publications Association between gazing steadfastly out the window and fondly studying Birdie bustled us off the car, laughing and waving goodbye. Arizona. I believe in Arizona’s American company agreed to fix our tire, although it 2004, 2002, 2001 Best Travel & In-transit Magazine the three kids, nostalgic for the scurry and the laughter.