P r efa ce HE first thing that a business man should kn o w — , is the little things of his business . T here is nothing scholarly in this book of short easy helps to that which every clothing maker, buyer, seller and handler w should kno , but nine times w out of ten does not kno . T his is only a book intended for q uick reference rather than thoroughness ; it is not even complete ; but, such as it is , Go the compilation is reliable . to the encyclopedia for ’ exh au s tive n es sf: we ve accomplished a great deal if this sends you to the encyclopedia . N o t one of us kno ws as much as w e might upon the familiar aspects of our trade . T HE E D I R T O . ACI D TE ST—A general term employed to designate a means of determining the ; quality o f anything, fabrics for instance as boiling a p iece o f su s pected cloth in a solution o f potash , in wh ich the wool or silk is consumed , but any cotton therein remains ; testing the color of indigo with a mixture of acetic and sulphuric acids ; etc . For more exhaustive explanation s see any good encyclopedia . AGRAFFE—An ornamental clasp , loop or lock . — ALBERT See Prince Albert . — - ALB E RT CLOTH Reversible all wool ff materials , each side o f di erent colors , and so fini s hed that no lining is required ; used chiefly for overcoats ; ” “ - better known as gol f cloth , plaid back ” coverts , etc . — ALI Z ARI NE An absolutely fast color dye substance , fo rmerly obtained from madder root , but now in large quantities - d from anthracene , a coal tar pro uct . A —A - LPACA thin , glistening, double fold fabric , with a fine cotton warp ; made from th e curly hair of an animal of the camel r be , fou d Sout Amer ca . —t i n in h i ARM U RE A cloth woven in miniature imitation of feudal metal armor plates , C L O T H E S heraldic devices , diamonds , birdseye and f seeded e fects . A STRAKHAN— A woolen or s ilk material with a long and closely curled pile in imitation of the fur . — BAC KED CLOT H Wors teds or other fabrics w hich are woven w ith an extra layer o f warp or fill ing underneath the face fabric, usually for increased weight and bulk . — ’ B HOP A ailor s wor shop . ACKS —t k B N NO K U N A sort of tweed . A C B —R BARRACKAN I n Mediterranean countries a ’ ’ camel s - hair cloth for men s wear in s E ngland a sort o f moleskin . Al o pe ed barragon . S ll — BAS KE T WEAVE Cloth woven in imitation o f bas et work . k— BA STARD An y fabric woven in imitation o f better and more expensive . BAT H ROBE— A long gown for wear between bat room a n d dressing room . — h BATTI NG Cotton or wool prepared in sheets for quilting or interlining see padding. - B EAVER Similar to Kersey , but with lo ger ap ; so ft, thic nap inside . n— n k BEAU A man devoted to the care and adornment o f his person and to matters of social etiquette ; a dandy ; a fop . D I C T I O N A R Y B EAVERTEEN—A sort o f heavy cotton terry ’ cloth used for men s hunting garments . — - B E DFORD CORD A clo s e woven woolen s d d cloth , having a rai e cor ed surface , similar to p ique . BELT— A strap or band worn around the waist . B ELT STRAPS— Loops or straps sewn at d s intervals aroun the waist o f trou ers , for the insertion and the holding i n place o f a belt , the obj ect being to dispense with s us penders . — B IAS Diagonally . B I S HOP—Trade term for extra length overcoats for tall men . Z — A s B LA ER light summer coat , mo t frequently of flannel and in bright colors . - — B LI ND E ! E A practically indi s tinguishable loop , hand made of thread . D—A B LOO gallant . BLOU SE— A sort o f loose overshirt or j acket . — B OD! COAT A dres s coat ; a close - fitti n g coat ; a livery coat . B OUCLE— A loosely woven fabric with a curly hair surface , frequently made with j ersey or stockinet body . — BOURETTE An effect of weaving produced by fancy yarns showing in lumps at s interval over the face o f the cloth . — A BOURNO U S long woolen cloak , with O hood , worn by men in the rient . C L O T H E S D— BOWLEGGE Parenthetical . B OX CL OT H— S imilar to P ilot cloth , thick and fulled , with Kersey face . B ox T—A - fitti n COA short , loose g topcoat ; ’ coachman s driving coat . BRAID—A narrow band or tap e made o f plaited silk, wool or cotton ; of various patterns . S— B RANDEN B URG Long, narrow , ornamental buttons , o f silk or wool , on a wooden mold ; used ch iefly on military overcoats . — B REECHES Knee trousers . T — B RILLIA N I N E See Mohair . B ROADCLOTH— A very fine woolen cloth s with a glossy fini hed surface , the better e grades being made w ith a twill d back . ” R AD L — B O FA L S See fron falls . — t B U K A dandy . C — B UC KLE A fa s tening device . — A - B U CKRA M coarse , heavy , plain woven linen or cotton material used for ff sti ening . B U CKS KI N— A stout doeskin with a more defined twill . B U S H ELMAN— A tailor or workman who d s oe alteration and repair work . B UTTERN UT—The coarse brown homespun cloths and j eans woven prior to the civil war . Colored brown with dye from the butternut tree . B UTTO N— A catch o f various forms and materials for fa s tening the various parts o f . a garment S ee encyclopedia . D I C T I O N A R Y — CAM E L S HAI R An extremely soft and s ilky ‘ fabric usually woven like cheviot . ’ CAN O N I CAL s — Cl er men s ffi gy O cial cloth ing , as prescribed b—y canon . CANTO N FLAN NEL A s tout twilled cotton d cloth with a nap on one or both si es . CAN VAS— A heavy linen or cotton cloth o f plain weave . — CAPE Circular covering for the shoulders ; the inside yoke of a coat — CAPE COAT An overcoat w i th a cape and s . with or without sleeve . See I nverness CARDIGAN JACKET— A close fitting ribbed woolen or worsted body j acket, with or without sleeves . D— C R TO co b out or dress . A — m CARDI N G The proce s s of Opening up the fibre of wool , flax , hemp , silk, etc . , for the purpose of cleaning them o f foreign matter and rendering the material fine and soft preparatory to spinning it into yarn . — CASSI M ERE A general term for all -wool fabrics woven either plain or twilled , “ ” : coarse or fine , of woolen yarn The pattern is always woven in plain and d isti c , and the cloth i s ever apped . n —t n n CAs s o cx A long clerical coat ; a military cloak . T —A CAS OR BEAVER heavy, milled, C L O T H E S -fi n i s h ed - face , all wool cloth , a little d lighter in weight than or inary beaver . C H ECK— A small plaid design made by ff s . di erent colors , cros ing at right angles D —A — d fl - C HESTERFIEL single breaste , y front overcoat, o f medium length , plain back ; also a cutaway frock coat for stout men , u . with fo r buttons , the top one only used — A - -fin i s h ed CH EVIOT twill woven , rough woolen fabric . — I n C H EVRO N weaving, a pattern characterized by z igzag lines or stripes ; herringbone . — A C H I N C H ILLA thick , heavy , double woven fabric , with a long napped surface ‘ Curled up into little tufts in imitation of Ch inchi la fur . l — C H I N -LATCH A small placket for clo s ing -u the apertu e o f a turned p coat co lar . r— l CLAN TARTAN The plaids o f the various O f highl and clans S cotland . — s CLAWHAM M ER See full dre s . — A CLAY name given to serges , worsteds a n d diagonals woven after th e process o f B E . H J Clay , o f uddersfield , ngland . — CLERK An absolutely imp eccable individual . — - CLOT H IER One who sells ready-to wear clothing . COAT— The principal garment o f men ’ s attire . — COAT I N G Th ose woolen and wors ted fabrics most particularly adapted to 1 0 D I C T I O N A R Y ’ men s dre s s and overcoats . — COLLAR The neckband of a coat ; a d . etachabl e linen neckpiece , etc COLOR TEST— General term for the various means of determining the purity or O f fastness colors , which may be by s mean s o f exposure , wa hing , chemical d processes , etc .