HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 1 HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU - A HEALTHY NONDAIRY / VEGAN CHEESE (1610-2011): EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK Including Various Names and Types: Sufu, Red Fermented Tofu, Bean Cheese, Chinese Cheese, Doufu-ru, Soybean Cheese, Soy Cheese, Bean-Curd Cheese, Fermented Soybean Curd, Bean Cake, Tofyuyo / Tofu-yo, Red Sufu, Fu-Yu, Fu-Ru, Chou Doufu / Ch’ou Toufu, Pickled Bean Curd, etc. Compiled by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi 2011 Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 2 Copyright (c) 2011 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews, without written permission from the publisher. Published by: Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com [email protected] ISBN 978-1-928914-40-2 (Fermented Tofu) Printed 13 Nov. 2011 Price: Available on the Web free of charge Search engine keywords: History of sufu History of bean cheese History of Chinese cheese History of soybean cheese History of soy cheese History of bean-curd cheese History of fermented soybean curd History of tofu-yo History of tofuyo History of bean cake History of Fu-Yu History of nondairy cheeses History of healthy nondairy cheeses History of vegan cheeses Bibliography of sufu Bibliography of bean cheese Bibliography of Chinese cheese Bibliography of soybean cheese Bibliography of soy cheese Bibliography of bean-curd cheese Bibliography of fermented soybean curd Bibliography of tofu-yo Bibliography of tofuyo Bibliography of bean cake Bibliography of Fu-Yu Bibliography of nondairy cheeses Bibliography of vegan cheeses Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 3 Contents Page Dedication and Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................. 4 Introduction and Brief Chronology, by William Shurtleff .......................................................................................... 5 About This Book ............................................................................................................................................................. 8 Abbreviations Used in This Book .................................................................................................................................. 9 How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! .................................................................................... 10 Small Graphics ........................................................................................................................................................ 12-16 History of Fermented Tofu: 763 References in Chronological Order ...................................................................... 17 Contains 56 Photographs and Illustrations Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ................................................................................................... 315 Last Page of Index ....................................................................................................................................................... 360 Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 4 DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Japanese translation and maps: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. This book is dedicated to the kings of the Loochoo / Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library Ryukyu dynasty, Dr. Masaaki Yasuda, Nganshou Wai, and (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman. Quong Hop & Co. - pioneers in this fi eld. We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting collecting the documents, building the library, and producing people from around the world who share a common interest, the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed: and in learning from them what is often the knowledge or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, practice. We wish to give deepest thanks... Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle help to our research over the years, several stand out: Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li, University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman, Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey. Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn Hsu. Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller, Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park, Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman. Maryland. Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special For outstanding help on this fermented tofu book we help on Slavic-language documents. thank: Masaaki Yasuda, H.T. Huang, Quong Hop & Co., Yasuko Torii, Cecilia Chiang, Jim Miller, Stanley Lee, Ben National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Lee, Eng Wun-hong. Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann, California, who has kept our computers up and running since Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson, Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web Tanner Wray. would not have been possible. Library of Congress: Ronald Jackson, Ronald Roache. This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff. Lane Medical Library at Stanford University. This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry history of this subject. Cartmill, Linda Barbero. Harvard University’s Five Botanical Libraries (especially Arnold Arboretum Library): Jill Gelmers Thomas. French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early 1980s. Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 5 INTRODUCTION What is fermented tofu? It is a soft (almost creamy), but we cannot form a probable conjecture of what it was somewhat salty non-dairy (vegan) cheese that originated made.” It was probably tofuyo. either in China or the islands around Okinawa in about the 1500s. It has a rather strong aroma, reminiscent of European 1855 Jan. – Fermented tofu is next mentioned in the mold-ripened cheeses such as Roquefort, Camembert, Blue Western world by Baron de Montgaudry, the French / Bleu, Brie, Neufchatel, Stilton, Gorgonzola, etc. Many Consul at Shanghai and Ning-po, China. Writing in French Westerners consider it an acquired taste, but those who try in the Bulletin de la Societe d’Acclimatation he says it often grow to love it - or even crave it. It does not melt (after describing regular tofu): For the rich, a seasoning but it is cut or spreads easily, and is generally used as a (assaisonnement) is prepared which requires more care and condiment, as with rice or rice porridge, or as a spread for culinary talent. The soybean paté (La pâte de Pois) [tofu] crackers. There are many different types made in many is fermented after having been seasoned with pepper, salt, different ways – just as there are with dairy cheeses, but all powdered bay/laurel leaves, powdered thyme, and other can be divided into two basic types: (1) Tofu molded before aromatics. During the fermentation, the producer bastes the pickling. (2) Tofu not molded before pickling. It is typically paté with soybean oil (l’huile de Pois). After several days of made using a two-part fermentation. For type No. 1: First, fermentation, the preparation is ready. This paté or cheese 1-inch cubes of fi rm tofu are inoculated with spores of a (fermented tofu) becomes a very powerful digestive (aid to special species of mold. These are kept in a warm place (or digestion) and an aperitif, which no one can resist because it incubated) for several days until each cube is overgrown is extremely tasty. with a fragrant white mycelium. Second, these mold- covered cubes are immersed in a brining liquor (often in 1858 April – Fermented tofu fi rst arrives in the Western individual jars) consisting of a mixture of rice wine, water, world in Australia (Melbourne). Called “Pickle beans curd” and salt. There the tofu ages and ripens. It will keep for [sic], it is part of a shipment of Chinese foods sent to Chinese years unrefrigerated – or even longer refrigerated. in Australia because of the Gold Rush (1851-1861). Unlike regular fresh tofu, fermented tofu is not perishable and can be Brief Chronology of Fermented Tofu. shipped long distances (Towns 1858). 1596 – Fermented tofu (furu) may be mentioned in the 1878 – Doufu-ru (Fermented tofu) is fi rst made in the Becao Gangmu [The Great Pharmacopea] by