Sensationally Pink hair and feathered kaftans, over-the-top hats and going out withouts knickers… such was the 1970s. Four women who pushed7 fashion to0 the brink during its most memorable decade look back. By Ellen Burney From left Birtwell in one of her Clockwise from above left signature relaxed floral-print With Bianca Jagger in creations in 1970; with husband 1978; pink-haired Ossie Clark and their sons the same year; pre- in 1971; a sketch for one of punky in ’74; in the early her dresses – “I have a weak ’70s, wearing shoes spot for embroidery” from Manolo Blahnik’s first collection. Below A dress with a classic Rhodes pointy neckline ‘My business partner said, “Hide, because you frighten the buyers. You are so extreme”’ Celia Birtwell always liked, with high collars. For parties I wore Ossie’s Zandra Rhodes ringing me up, wanting to buy thrown by Mick Jagger, where was a favourite: the chevron- I had a lot of Romanian chiffon blouses and the little my clothes. In the late ’60s, Bianca Jagger appeared like a print coat and chiffon jacket Textile designer and embroidered blouses and some black suits that he made Fashion designer Sandie Shaw wore one of my fabulous dream wearing my were both cut out around the ex-wife of fashion that I found in Greece when especially for me that were pieces on Top of the Pops. One cream crinoline dress printed print, making fronds to which I designer Ossie Clark travelling. I have a weak spot understated and well cut. I lived in Notting minute, Sylvia Ayton, my first with seashells. Divine! attached feathers. for embroidery and had a Plus I had some glamorous Hill Gate during business partner, was saying, The kaftans I made showed I didn’t distinguish between I wouldn’t ever dirndl skirt with poppies dresses; I remember a very the 1970s. It “Hide, because you frighten the my prints to their full day and evening dress. I might go away at the and wheatgrasses around nice bib dress with a suede was very “flower buyers. You are so extreme.” advantage. I wore them with have worn my evening chiffons weekend during the edges that I loved. front in black crêpe that I think – on a black cord that I power”. My hair The next, David Bailey was high white boots, or a long, in the day – they had tiny satin the 1970s as I had I’ve always been keen on I would wear with some rather could move the pieces around was green and I had feathers on shooting my clothes and the printed felt coat with beads bodices and voluminous chiffon to go to Portobello – and quite particular about ridiculous shoes. on. But we all have our own the ends. I suppose I did look models were telling me I hanging from the collar. swags or pointed chiffon Market every Saturday – fashion, but my look was David Hockney’s Mr and Mrs ideals and followed people with extreme but I didn’t see it that needed to hit America. Famous When I was working, I wore a with feathers. Otherwise, morning. I bought lots of modest. I was a mother in Clark and Percy was painted similar style. My muses were way – I think I was born with a people were knocking on the long kaftan with belts I’d just wear flowing vintage there – lots of jersey the ’70s, so I had to move in 1971 in my living room and the cool girls I’d see around very thick skin. I believe that door of my Paddington studio. made from antique kaftans with scarves on jackets. I would never wear about an awful lot and my I wore a black crêpe dress to Notting Hill or in Paris. Lots of as a designer you should wear Baby Jane Holzer [one of Andy carpets and my high my head. I never wore vintage clothes now but I still clothes reflected that. I went pose for it. Around that time people wanted to look like Faye – and be – what you are Warhol’s “superstars”] came canvas Biba boots. anything other than my go to car-boot sales on Sunday for nice comfy fabrics, and I also liked a long-sleeved, pale- Dunaway in Bonnie and Clyde designing. I believed in my round. Peter Sellers brought Sometimes I wore own clothes. I felt free mornings in the country. Back I was always a bit plump so I pink dress with a green-leaf at that time too. I considered textiles and how they translated Britt Ekland. I was flown to turbans, too! as a bird to experiment then I wore an eclectic mix of chose things that were print and rick-rack trim. I loved myself alternative, but then I into garments and I wanted to Paris to deliver a quilted kaftan A pink chiffon piece and do as I liked. I’d vintage and Ossie Clark, and flattering. I love stripes and was to wear brooches and I had a went to art school and lots of show them to the world. to Paloma Picasso. I went to with feathers that look into the mirror a lot of the Puritan look I’ve a big Agnès b fan. necklace I adored – art deco, people there dressed like me. Rhodes Zandra Schmidt. Richard by photograph Hockney, ©David Getty. Features. Rex Young Richard Leonard. hair: Sharah; Richard make-up: Beeche; Robyn photo: main Then I found people kept a party at Blenheim Palace Bianca Jagger wore and be me! 20 Stella Stella 21 Clockwise from left Wearing cheesecloth and velvet, Molly Parkin straw in the shape of a basket around 1970; in dungarees of cherries (right). Shilling had bought on the King’s Road; Fashion journalist French women down in the Paris in 1970; with Justin basement making them. de Villeneuve in ’75 The world of Since I had a fall I haven’t fashion was very been able to wear Manolo’s exciting in the shoes, so now the hats I make 1970s and the are very tall to give me extra designers were my height. I’ve been dressing friends. I discovered Manolo this way since I was aged about Blahnik and put him in print seven, when I found a wardrobe when I was fashion editor at full of my grandmother’s The Sunday Times. I wore his silky things, beautiful laces very, very high heels in black and satin shoes. I’d wear and scarlet and I wore a lot of them to collect the rents from Biba, too – I’d started making houses she owned in Wales hats for Barbara Hulanicki in and I loved the floating feeling the 1960s and she remains one they gave me. Even now, of my best friends today. I liked whenever I try things on in Andrew Logan brooches and front of the mirror, it is all Zandra Rhodes chiffons. I’ve with that little girl in mind. always been committed to Clockwise from above Style, sex colour, to magenta and violet. and fashion came together as Musicals are a huge passion Parkin seduced in fruity hats and my greatest influence and black leather; with her novel, was Carmen Miranda. I never Up Tight, in 1975; false lashes had a stylist to dress me, never and full lips sealed her look wore jeans or informal clothes. In 1979 I moved to Manhattan and lived in the Chelsea Hotel for a year. Large shoulder pads were a thing and I had a glossy silk jersey, step-in jumpsuit that was very tight – I was in sublime shape at the time as I was swimming 40 lengths every day. Underneath it I wore a black French lace bra from Rose Lewis in Knightsbridge and no knickers – I didn’t want to have a line. Roger at Vidal Sassoon in London cut my hair; he gave HOW THE 1970S STILL ROCK FOR AUTUMN/WINTER15 Jan de Villeneuve embroidered peasant blouses. – leather belts and necklaces shoot with Jean Shrimpton for me a long fringe, hair tight to I had Mr Freedom dungarees with beads and feathers. US Vogue in 1969. We were in the skull and dyed it black. Model and ex-wife of – both long ones and hot I loved short shorts for warm Hawaii and she appeared each Fortunately, he moved to New Justin de Villeneuve, pants – in velvet and also cotton weather and French bathing day in a lovely vintage outfit – York at the same time as me who discovered Twiggy with childlike prints. Another suits from Eres. In the early pretty old skirts and tops. and managed the salon there. favourite was a long-sleeved, ’70s I liked Ossie Clark, Biba, I shopped at Chelsea I was very good with make-up I spent the summer full-skirted dress by Tommy Fiorucci, Dorothée Bis, and Antiques Market and because I’d been a painter. of 1970 in London Roberts for Mr Freedom that later in the ’70s, Zandra Rhodes, Antiquarius, both on King’s I loved all the Biba lipsticks modelling for was royal blue with a flower Kenzo and Halston. I wore Thea Road. British fashion seemed and wore scarlet lips, nails British Vogue. print all over. I wore it with his Porter frocks in the evenings far ahead of the US. It was more SONIA RYKIEL by Lancôme and black false JONATHAN SAUNDERS The hairdresser pink suede bolero jacket with and still have three stunning individual and eccentric. In lashes, top and bottom.