©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Indonesia Sumatra Kalimantan p490 p586 Sulawesi Maluku p636 p407 Papua p450 Java p48 Nusa Tenggara p302 Bali p197 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Loren Bell, Stuart Butler, Trent Holden, Anna Kaminski, Hugh McNaughtan, Adam Skolnick, Iain Stewart, Ryan Ver Berkmoes PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Indonesia . 6 JAVA . 48 Imogiri . 127 Indonesia Map . 8 Jakarta . 52 Gunung Merapi . 127 Solo (Surakarta) . 133 Indonesia’s Top 20 . 10 Thousand Islands . 73 West Java . 74 Gunung Lawu . 141 Need to Know . 20 Banten . 74 Semarang . 144 What’s New . 22 Gunung Krakatau . 77 Karimunjawa Islands . 154 If You Like… . 23 Bogor . 79 East Java . 158 Cimaja . 83 Surabaya . 158 Month by Month . 26 Cibodas . 85 Pulau Madura . 166 Itineraries . 28 Cianjur . 86 Sumenep . 168 Outdoor Adventures . 32 Bandung . 87 Malang . 169 Probolinggo . 182 Travel with Children . 43 Pangandaran . 96 Central Java . 102 Ijen Plateau . 188 Regions at a Glance . 45 Borobudur . 106 Meru Betiri National Park . 191 Yogyakarta . 111 PETE SEAWARD/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES SEAWARD/GETTY PETE Contents BALI . 197 Candidasa . 276 MALUKU . 407 South Bali . 206 Central Mountains . 283 North Maluku . 409 Kuta & Legian . 206 Gunung Batur . 284 Pulau Ternate . 410 Seminyak & Danau Bratan . 287 Pulau Tidore . 417 Kerobokan . 216 North Bali . 290 Pulau Halmahera . 418 Canggu & Around . .. 225 Lovina . .. 292 Pulau Ambon . .. 423 Bukit Peninsula . .229 Pemuteran . .. 295 Kota Ambon . 424 Sanur . 234 Gilimanuk . 298 Lease Islands . 431 Denpasar . 238 West Bali . 298 Pulau Saparua . 431 Nusa Lembongan & Pura Tanah Lot . 298 Pulau Molana . 433 Islands . 242 Jembrana Coast . 301 Pulau Seram . 433 Ubud . 247 Masohi, Namano & East Bali . .. 266 NUSA TENGGARA . 302 Amahai . 434 Pura Besakih . 270 Lombok . 304 Banda Islands . 435 Gunung Agung . 271 Mataram . 305 Bandaneira . 437 Padangbai . 272 Senggigi . .. 309 Pulau Gunung Api . 441 Gunung Rinjani . 315 Pulau Run (Rhun) . .444 Praya . 319 Kei Islands . .. 444 Labuhan Lombok . 324 Pulau Kei Kecil . 447 Gili Islands . 324 Pulau Tanimbar Kei . 449 Sumbawa . 342 Komodo & Rinca PAPUA . 450 Islands . 351 West Papua . 457 Flores . 354 Raja Ampat Islands . 458 Labuanbajo . 356 Manokwari . 463 Manggarai Country . 363 Northern Papua . 467 Riung . 368 Jayapura . 467 Ende . 370 Sentani . 471 Kelimutu . 372 Pulau Biak . 473 Maumere . 375 Alor Archipelago . 378 West Timor . 381 SPECIAL Kupang . 382 FEATURES Kefamenanu . 389 Outdoor Adventures Rote . 391 guide . 32 Ba’a . .. 392 Travel with Children . 43 Nemberala . .. 392 Food & Drink guide . 742 Sumba . 394 Responsible Travel . 763 Waingapu . 397 Waikabubak . 399 A MAN WORKING IN A RICE FIELD, UBUD (P247), BALI ON THE ROAD Baliem Valley . 477 Pulau Nias . 515 Bengkulu . 565 Wamena . 478 Gunung Sitoli . 517 Riau . 568 Yali Country . 485 Teluk Dalam . 518 Pekanbaru . 569 The South . 485 Aceh . 521 Pulau Bintan . 572 Merauke . 485 Banda Aceh . 521 Jambi . 573 Wasur National Park . 487 Pulau Weh . 526 South Sumatra . 577 Banyak Islands . 531 Palembang . 577 SUMATRA . 490 Gunung Leuser Krui . 578 National Park . 534 North Sumatra . 494 Lampung . 580 West Sumatra . 536 Medan . 494 Bandarlampung . 580 Padang . 537 Bukit Lawang . 501 Way Kambas Mentawai Islands . 544 National Park . 583 Tangkahan . 504 Bukittinggi . .. 550 Gunung Krakatau . 585 Berastagi . 505 Danau Maninjau . 558 Bukit Barisan Selatan Danau Toba . 508 Kerinci Valley . .560 National Park . 585 Sibolga . 514 TOONMAN/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES TOONMAN/GETTY Contents UNDERSTAND KALIMANTAN . 586 East Kalimantan . 615 Indonesia Today . 702 West Kalimantan . 590 Balikpapan . 615 Pontianak . 590 Samarinda . 619 History . 705 Sungai Kapuas . 596 Sungai Mahakam . 623 Culture . 725 The Muller Mountains . 629 Sukadana . 598 Food & Drink . 742 Central Kalimantan . 600 Kutai National Park . 630 Environment . 751 Tanjung Puting Derawan Archipelago . 633 National Park . 600 North Kalimantan . 635 Pangkalan Bun . 603 Palangka Raya . 605 SULAWESI . 636 SURVIVAL South Kalimantan . 608 South Sulawesi . .. 639 GUIDE Banjarmasin . 608 Makassar . 640 Kandangan . 612 Pantai Bira . .. 647 Responsible Negara . 613 Pulau Lihukan . 652 Travel . 763 Taka Bone Rate Islands . 652 Directory A–Z . 766 Tana Toraja . 654 Transport . 776 West Sulawesi . 666 Health . 784 Mamasa Valley . 666 Central Sulawesi . 669 Language . 789 Pendolo . 670 Poso . 672 Lore Lindu National Park . 673 Ampana . 676 Togean Islands . 677 North Sulawesi . 682 Gorontalo . 683 Manado . 684 Pulau Bunaken . 688 Tomohon . 692 Bitung . .. 694 Southeast Sulawesi . 696 Kolaka . 696 Kendari . 697 Bau Bau . 698 Tukangbesi Islands . 699 PURA ULUN DANU BRATAN (P287), BALI ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 28 Itineraries B a l i S e a Munduk •# É Gili É Gunung Islands •# Kawi •# •#Bangsal BALI É É É LOMBOK Ubud •# Padangbai •# É É •#Mataram É É Seminyak•# É •# Lembar É •# Bukit •# Peninsula Kuta I N D I A N O C E A N 2 Bali & Lombok WEEKS Mix the offbeat with the sublime in Indonesia’s heart of tourism. Start in Bali, acclimatising in the resorts, clubs and shops of Seminyak. Dose up on sun at the beach, then explore the little beaches and surf breaks of the Bukit Peninsula. Head north to immerse yourself in the ‘other’ Bali – the culture, temples and rich his- tory of Ubud. Visit Gunung Kawi, an ancient site worthy of Indiana Jones, and the nearby craft villages. Take a cooking course, learn woodcarving and revel in Bali’s famous traditional dance. Then escape to the misty mountains for treks to waterfalls amid coffee plantations in and around Munduk. Next is Lombok. Ferry from Bali’s beachy port town of Padangbai to Lembar, Lombok’s launching pad. Head to Kuta for mellow vibes amidst the wonderful beaches of south Lom- bok. Then potter through the rice fields and Hindu temples around Mataram. Ferry from Bangsal to the deservedly celebrated Gili Islands, where seamless beach- es, translucent water and vivid reefs beg for snorkel-clad swimmers. Or if time’s short, catch a fast boat direct to the Gilis from Bali. 29 MALAYSIA THAILAND Pulau Weh Marine National Park #÷ Ketambe É PLAN YOUR TRIP É Bukit Lawang •# •# •# Medan MALAYSIA •#Berastagi JAVA S E A Banyak •# É Islands JAKARTA Bromo-Tengger- Harau SINGAPORE Prambanan Semeru Valley #_ National •# •# É Borobudur ‚ Park Bukittinggi •#Danau •# •# É É Maninjau IT •# •# Meru Betiri É •# •# Solo Pangandaran #÷ National Park I Yogyakarta NERAR #÷ Kerinci Valley Batu •# Karas #÷ Mentawai •# É Alas Purwo Islands National Park I ES #÷ Way Kambas National Park 3 6 WEEKS Java Jaunt WEEKS Sumatra Indonesia’s most populous island mixes the Sumatra is quite huge and you’ll have to nation’s future, past and natural beauty. hustle to fully appreciate its myriad natural charms within visa constraints. Begin in Jakarta and wrap your senses around the dizzying smells, sounds, sights Start your explorations in Medan, which and people of Indonesia’s teeming capital. has great transport connections. Then get Linger long enough to binge on Bintang right out of town and head to Bukit La- beer and shopping, then head to Batu wang, where you can see the island’s most Karas for classic laid-back beach vibes or famous residents, the orangutans. It’s a go for the resorts of nearby Pangandaran. short jaunt from here to Berastagi, a laid- After you’ve worshipped the sun for a back hill town set amid volcanoes. week or so, catch the train to Yogyakarta, Head northwest to Ketambe for some Java’s cultural capital. Dabble in batik, am- jungle trekking in Gunung Leuser National ble through the kraton (walled city palace) Park, then on to the large sea creatures at and part with your rupiah at the vibrant Pulau Weh Marine National Park off markets. A day trip to majestic Borobudur the coast. Head back south and travel off is a must. the west coast to the Banyak Islands, a From Yogyakarta, journey to the laid- surfing and beach paradise. Back ashore, follow the Trans-Sumatran Hwy south to back city of Solo, via the enigmatic temples , a good base for exploring the of Prambanan. Head into the clouds at Bukittinggi cultures and beauty of the awesome Bromo-Tengger-Semeru Harau Valley and . National Park, spending a night on the Danau Maninjau lip of Tengger crater. From here head to the More surf and sand awaits at the Menta- southeast coast and Meru Betiri Nation- wai Islands. Next, head inland to the vol- al Park. You just might see the amazing canic Kerinci Valley and Kerinci National giant squirrel. Finally, follow the coast to Park for remote jungle villages. Finally, head Alas Purwo National Park, where there’s far south to Way Kambas National Park, leopards and amazing surfing at G-Land. where the highlights include elephants. 30 Raja Ampat PLAN YOUR TRIP Islands Pulau Biak •# É •# Sorong •# É Pulau É •# Jayapura Atauro É Wetar •# Komodo Island TIMOR- Wetar Pulau •# National Park É Lombok Flores Strait Nabire•# •# •# É Dan‚au •#É É #÷ •# LESTE Kisar É É É •# Sentani •# Timor É West Sea •# É Sumbawa •# •# Timor Timor Baliem IT Sumba É •# Sea Valley I É NERAR •# Australia Australia Rote Australia Australia Australia Australia Australia Chambers Australia I Beagle Bay ES Gulf Anson Bay Australia A R A F U R A Australia Australia AUSTRALSIAE A Australia Australia Australia Australia Australia Australia 6 4 WEEKS Nusa Tenggara WEEKS Papua Lombok is well known to visitors and Flores Papua is the launching pad for this route is the new darling, but the island province of through some of Indonesia’s most exotic Nusa Tenggara holds many more surprises. and beautiful territory. You can do it in 30 days with judicious use of flights, otherwise Head east from Lombok. Admire the take your time for the full land and sea beautiful coastline and surf breaks that adventure. dot Sumbawa such as Maluk and Pantai Lakey. Catch the ferry to Labuanbajo on Start at the transport hub of Jayapura. Flores, the fast-growing hub for exploring But you’ll only be there long enough to nearby Komodo National Park.