Hostile Territory: The sparsely populated, frigid, and forbidding landscape along the Malangen fjord in the Norwegian Arctic Circle presents a profound challenge for military forces. PORTFOLIO Surviving a Cold War PHOTO ESSAY BY Robert NICKELSBERG TEXT BY JUDITH MatLOFF PORTFOLIO British Royal Marines learn warm-up exercises to prevent frostbite— a priority for NATO forces in the Arctic. Buddy systems make sure soldiers care for themselves and their mates as they head out carrying 100-pound packs. KJOLD, Norway—The bullets were real. But fortunately for the Norwegian snipers, this was just an exercise. If it had been real Scombat, the enemy would have easily spotted the troops in the vast whiteness of the Arctic. The white camouflage uniforms didn’t match the ever-changing color of snow. The men’s breath and shadows were easily seen in the frost. And the extreme cold impaired the sharp- shooters’ accuracy by influencing bullet speeds. It’s tough to wage war in the Arctic. As melting glaciers open up access to shipping routes and energy troves, countries with polar real estate are modernizing armies just in case. Severe cold is the last frontier in warfare, barring outer space, and the militaries of the United States, Canada, Denmark, Russia, and Robert Nickelsberg, a TIME magazine contract photographer for 25 years, has covered conflicts in India, Iraq, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. Judith Matloff teaches conflict reporting at the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism. She is the author of Home Girl (2008) and Fragments of a Forgotten War (1997). 48 WORLD POLICY JOURNAL ARCTIC TRAINING Gimme Shelter: During survival exercises, Marines construct a shelter out of branches found in the frozen woods. Apart from armed conflict, central Mindanao has been plagued with massive flooding from torrential rains—the product of fast-changing weather conditions, further complicating the ability of mothers to receive health care in restive regions. SUMMER 2013 49 PORTFOLIO 50 WORLD POLICY JOURNAL ARCTIC TRAINING Casualty Evacuation: Royal Marines pull and push a sled bearing one of their own. On extreme terrain, the Marines measure distance in hours per mile. SUMMER 2013 51 PORTFOLIO Norway are finding that the environment and the Netherlands to observe training presents dangers as challenging as any en- in the planet’s harshest climate. The jour- emy. When the mercury drops to 55 below ney began at a mountain bunker in Bodo Fahrenheit, ballistics malfunction, helicop- and continued on to a helicopter battal- ters can’t take off, and vehicles stall. Men ion in Bardufoss, coastal operations in are prey to frostbite, avalanches, and snow Harstad, and avalanche mapping and live blindness. Dogs can’t track mines or vic- fire exercises in Skjold. The constant take- tims buried in drifts. away was that proper clothes are as vital as “If you can survive and fight in the nuclear submarines. extremes of the Arctic, you can fight any- The simplest choices, such as what to where in the world,” says Lt. Col. Lars eat and wear, become critical, explains Sgt. Sundnes, commanding officer of the Allied John Rutherland, an instructor with the Arctic Training Center in the high reaches British Royal Marines. “If you’re up against of Norway. a wet and cold enemy, you win, even if they But just surviving is formidable. have better equipment,” he tells a circle of Photographer Robert Nickelsberg men stoking fires in a frozen forest. Three and I spent nearly two weeks in the Arctic months of training covers survival, mobil- Circle with forces from Norway, Britain, ity, and combat skills. Marines secure gear atop Swedish BV tracked vehicles—the only motorized transport in the treacherous mountain terrain north of the Arctic Circle. 52 WORLD POLICY JOURNAL ARCTIC TRAINING Avalanche Mapping: A single ski-borne soldier can trigger a catastrophic snowslide. Probing a mountain slope of windblown snow can allow a soldier to tell if an area’s too dangerous to traverse. In March 1986, more than a dozen members of a Norwegian ski patrol died in an avalanche during NATO games. SUMMER 2013 53 PORTFOLIO Urban warfare is equally difficult in austere and extreme conditions. Norwegian army soldiers practice attacking a remote Arctic outpost in knee-deep snow. Lessons start with layering clothing Pilots practice landing helicopters in to mitigate the harsh elements. Men then dreaded “white outs,” when swirling snow learn to dig snow caves, slaughter reindeer, impairs depth of perception so you don’t know and fish through ice. They claw out of gla- if you’re up or down. Soldiers are taught how cial lakes and drag 200-pound “casualties” to warm medical fluids, engines, and satellite like huskies on skis. They trek in deep snow technology with parachute covers and stoves. with 100 pounds of gear on their backs. More than anything, they drill to watch Briefings explain the climatic effects on over buddies. “You need to stay sharp in equipment. Moving parts break, ice clogs this environment. There’s no room for er- optics, and batteries drain quickly. Mois- ror,” explains Capt. Kris Lotveit of Norway. ture collects when going from cold to warm “We have a saying, ‘Don’t expect, inspect.’ and back to cold, such as when entering and It’s not good enough to ask a strong Marine exiting a warm tent. Powder burns slower with tattoos and big muscles if he’s okay. when cold, so artillery rounds can fall short He will say, ‘Yes, sir.’ You have to check to of the desired impact area. Deep snow see that his toes aren’t frozen.” makes detonation of grenades less lethal as In this Portfolio, Robert Nickelsberg it absorbs much of the blast. Warm rounds chronicles the challenges that face Arctic dragging tough snow will jam or not feed warriors and how Western forces are over- at all in automatic weapons. coming them. —Judith Matloff 54 WORLD POLICY JOURNAL ARCTIC TRAINING A Norwegian army officer directs a helicopter at a live fire exercise on a blustery, minus 8 degrees Fahrenheit afternoon. Ballistics and electronic devices function differently in extreme cold, often jamming or breaking down. SUMMER 2013 55 PORTFOLIO 56 WORLD POLICY JOURNAL ARCTIC TRAINING White Out: Helicopter pilots must land in deep snow, blinded by blowing powder and fog, creating a potentially deadly environment. SUMMER 2013 57.