UNCONVENTIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: THE APPLICATION OF HISTORICAL PHOTOGRAPHY PROCESSES INTEGRATING WITH TEXTILE WORK By Miss Anugoon Buranaprapuk A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy Program in Design Arts International Program Graduate School, Silpakorn University Academic Year 2015 Copyright of Graduate School, Silpakorn University UNCONVENTIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: THE APPLICATION OF HISTORICAL PHOTOGRAPHY PROCESSES INTEGRATING WITH TEXTILE WORK By Miss Anugoon Buranaprapuk A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy Program in Design Arts International Program Graduate School, Silpakorn University Academic Year 2015 Copyright of Graduate School, Silpakorn University The Graduate School, Silpakorn University has approved and accredited the Thesis title of “ Unconventional Photography : The Application of Historical Photography Processes Integrating with Textile Work ” submitted by Miss Anugoon Buranaprapuk as a partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Design Arts ….………………………………………………………………………………… (Associate Professor Panjai Tantatsanawong, Ph.D.) Dean of Graduate School ………….…../……….…..…………./………..……. The Thesis Advisor 1. Assistant Professor Namfon Laistrooglai, Ph.D. 2. Associate Professor Pairoj Jamuni, Ed.D. The Thesis Examination Committee ..................................................................Chairman (Professor Eakachat Joneurairatana, Ph.D.) ……………./……………………/.................... ..................................................................Member (Professor Peter Pilgrim, MDesRCA. MCSD. FRSA) ……………./……………………/.................... ..................................................................Member ..........................................................Member (Assistant Professor Namfon Laistrooglai, Ph.D.) (Associate Professor Pairoj Jamuni, Ed.D.) ……………./……………………/.................... ……………./……………………/............ 51155962: MAJOR: DESIGN ARTS KEYWORD: HISTORICAL / UNCONVENTIONAL / PHOTOGRAPHY/FIBERS / STITCHES ANUGOON BURANAPRAPUK: UNCONVENTIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: THE APPLICATION OF HISTORICAL PHOTOGRAPHY PROCESSES INTEGRATING WITH TEXTILE WORK. THESIS ADVISORS: ASST. PROF. NAMFON LAISTROOGLAI, Ph.D. AND ASSOC. PROF. PAIROJ JAMUNI, Ph.D. 159 pp. The beginning of photographic printing traced back to the 1800s. Images were printed with different light sensitive chemicals discovered by scientists and chemists. In that era, the photographs were done by hand from mixing the chemical, preparing the plates or paper to finishing with another set of chemical. In the early 20th century, the photographic printmaking became commercialized with silver gelatin. It became a mainstream through out the century. After that, the evolution of the digital technology predominates the industry at the turn of the century. Consequently, the history of photography is unobserved. Although, the early photographic processes has resurged around 1960s-1970s and they are called alternative photography. However, they are still obscure and not widely practiced. Therefore, the objectives of this research are 1) to preserve and reintroduce parts of historical photographic processes, 2) to experiment historical processes on different fibers and to analyze the results and 3) to develop unconventional photography by integrating historical processes with textile work. There are approximately 19 types of historical processes. However, the selected processes are considered by relevant adhesive characteristic of the chemical to the fibers. Natural fibers are found to have the right properties for the chemical to be situated. Experimented natural fibers are divided into 2 groups; first group is generic fibers that are found in common fabric stores and second group is natural fibers from Thailand’s local wisdom. The first group is established to have better results. On the other hand, local fibers are more vulnerable to failure in printing. However, they produce organic appeal. With the flexibilities of the fabric fibers, stitches and embroidery techniques can be applied on to the images to create unconventional photography. The research experiment expands the possibilities of historical photographic printing. The data analyzed can benefit those who seek alternative materials for their imaging making. Program of Design Arts Graduate School, Silpakorn University Student's signature ...................................... Academic Year 2015 Thesis Advisors' signatures 1. ......................................... 2. ......................................... iii Acknowledgement With a humble beginning, my parents never had much opportunity to fulfill their education. Though time, they have worked very hard to secure their children’s futures by providing any means for them to get as high of education as they desire. I am forever thankful from the bottom of my heart for their endless love, encouragement and support. Without them I would have not come this far. I am very fortunate to be able to pursue my passion in photography, especially at this moment of my life when family prioritizes most of my time. My husband, Michael Moronez, has always been there with tremendous support and discernment. Also, I am blessed with two beautiful children, Jate and Kate, who understand and give me time for this journey. This research would not have been realistic without my chemist sister, Associate Professor Dr. Apinya (Buranaprapuk) Chaivisuthangura, who provides me a proper laboratory on my chemical work and also supplies me with essential hard-to- find chemical. In memory of my mentor, my friend, Nicholas Dekker, who introduced me to platinum printing and that forever changed my entire perspective in photographic printmaking. I am grateful for your patience in guiding me and the belief that you had in me. You will always be remembered. Last but not least, I would like to extend my gratitude to Associate Professor Dr. Pairoj Jamuni, Assistant Professor Dr. Namfon Laistrooglai and Associate Professor Dr. Jirawat Vongphantuset for their time, patience and guidance. My utmost appreciation to the department of Decorative Arts of Silpakorn University, PhD. Board committees and everybody that involves, for the opportunity that allows me to share my passion and my knowledge. I do hope that this research will be helpful for those who share the same interest and passion. I also do hope that this research will work as a preservation of rare photographic processes for the later generations. iv Table of Contents Page Abstract ...................................................................................................................................... iii Acknowledgements................................................................................................................. iv List of Tables............................................................................................................................. vii List of Figures............................................................................................................................ viii Chapter 1 Introduction.............................................................................................................. 1 Statement of the problem........................................................................... 3 Research Objective......................................................................................... 4 Research Methodology.................................................................................. 4 Scope of the study......................................................................................... 6 Limitation of the study.................................................................................. 7 Research outcome.......................................................................................... 8 2 Literature reviews and related studies .............................................................. 9 A brief history of photography and its processes................................... 9 Summary of chemicals used in Historical Photographic Processes ... 22 The value ......................................................................................................... 26 Current practice of Historical Photographic Processes.......................... 27 Surfaces used in Historical photographic processes.............................. 32 Suggested papers used for Historical processes..................................... 33 Summary of paper specifications for Historical photographic prints. 34 Paper fibers....................................................................................................... 35 Fabric fibers...................................................................................................... 39 Fabric for printing............................................................................................ 47 The study of related Artists.......................................................................... 48 Applicable aesthetic theory......................................................................... 67 Summary........................................................................................................... 69 3 Research Methodology.......................................................................................... 73 Literature Review............................................................................................ 73 v Chapter