Tk« Varsity Outdoor Qub Journal VOLUME XXI 1978 The Unveuibj of ThttUk CdumHa. Vancouver, Canada PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Julian Dunster March 1979 Ladies and Gentlemen, Fellow Members of the Varsity Outdoor Club. On behalf of Her Majesty The. Queen, I want to dedicate this brief epistle to that finest of Canadian traditions. The Great Outdoors. Having heen used to British Mountaineering and the ennervating experience of travelling for two or more days just to get near a mountain over 4000 feet, let alone climb it, I have found the British Columbia experience a great contrast. People living in Vancouver are really very lucky to be so close to such a vast array of outdoors experiences. Even more so the members of this club have a unique opportunity to try their hand at all the various facets of mountain­ eering without being committed to a large capital investment in equip­ ment. As a member there is the chance to get out and see some of the "Super Natural" scenery at a time when the external pressures of life are at a minimum. Vancouver has more than enough to offer for all levels of exper­ ience, ranging from easy climbs at Lighthouse Park in the summer evenings, to long technical routes on the Chief; from easy rambles on the North Shore to long hard days in the mountains, and from being a novice skier on Grouse (like myself) to serious winter traverses across the mountains. Perhaps its only fault lies in its apparent lack of snow in recent years. But then snow anywhere is rather like sex one never knows how many inches there will be nor how long it will last 11 Few people would deny that one's University days are probably the happiest of one's life. Being a member of this club must surely adds to the enrichment of these days. The club is now nearly sixty years old and has established for itself a very fine and honourable tradition in the history of mountaineering in Western Canada. I hope that everyone who passes through this club will take full advantage of what it has to offer,, both from the trips organized and perhaps less obviously from the involvement in the day to day'organiz­ ation of the club's affairs and activities. Thanks are due to this year's body of helpers and as usual to the general membership for their continued support of the club. It is good to see that despite the usual barrage of feeble excuses about overwork, lack of time, money and energy, plenty, of V.O.C.ers are out in the hills having a good time. May I wish, you all many more happy years in the hills. I would like to conclude with, a quote by Edward Whymper. His words of wisdom seem as relevant today as they were in 1866. Good luck and Berg Reill '"There have been joys too great to be described in words, and there have been griefs upon which I have not dared to dwell; and with these in mind I say. Climb if you will, but remember that momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end." E. whymper. Scrambles amongst the Alps. EDITOR'S MESSAGE - 1978 In April they tell you that you are the One, By early next year the THING must be done — Meanwhile Dave in his woolies and I in my cap Had just settled our minds for a long winter's nap. Then that time came around - we sprang to our task. Of article victims we could beg, plead or ask. We had to read all Rye Cracker descriptions in sight, Handwriting puzzles led far into the night. We learnt acid details of the unintentioned bivuouac. Of D.Q. locations we must now have the knack. Long technical descriptions of each climbing route. The belay station posterior, and pictures to boot. Of skiing through powder, of waking at dawn. The moon's rising at twilight, we now can but yawn. My thanks to you all - whose talent we could drain, Dave's rantings on Wednesdays, thus were not in vain For what its all worth, you need no longer wait. For your reading pleasure, the Journal of '78. Jane Weller and Dave Waldichuk ii V.O.C. EXECUTIVE 1978-79 President Julian Dunster Vice President Marianne Etchell Secretary Rob McLaren Treasurer Anders Ourom Climbing Chairman Graham Underhill Quarter Master Paul Phillips Membership Chairman Paul Hooper Public Relations Officer Bob Gephart/Bruce Blackwell Archivist Sheila Churchill Ski Representative John Baldwin F.B.C.B.C. Rep. Leon Kolankiewicz Journal Editors Dave Waldichuk/Jane Weller V.O.C.'ene Editor Helen Lemon V.O.C. EXECUTIVE 1977-78 President Graham Underhill Vice President Heather Manson Secretary Margrit Schilter Treasurer Rob McLaren Climbing Chairman John Baldwin Quarter Master John Romein Membership Chairman Bob Pritchard Public Relations Officer Paul Hooper Archivist Helen Lemon Ski Representative Steve Ludwig F.M.C.B.C. Rep. Jay McArthur Journal Editors Bill Lee/Eva Macek V.O.C.'ene Editor Marg Symons iv VARSITY OUTDOOR CLUB CHEM 250 12:30 WED. LECTURES AND SLIDE SHOWS CHARLES S. BUNGI TABLE OF CONTENTS Page President's Message Julian Dunster i Editor's Message Jane Weller and ii Dave Waldichuk V.O.C. Executive 1977-1978 iv V.O.C. Executive 1978-1979 iv GENERAL CLUB ACTIVITIES Social Activities 1 Grad News 2 Awards 4 1978 Cabin Committee 4 1978 Journal Committee 4 ARTICLES Spring 1978 Spearheads Steve Grant 5 Olympic Beach Gail Franko 7 Tyaughton to Spruce Lake John Baldwin 9 Vedder River Run . Jay Page 10 Sphinx Camp 1978 - Excerpts Jane Weller 12 La Haute Route Wayne Nagata 13 Mt. Brunswick Mark Latham 18 Summer 1978 Wedgemount Kathy Ourom 19 Maritimes-Newfoundland-New England Leon Kolankiewicz 19 Bicycle Tour Two Long Days (poem) Heather Manson 22 Lizzie Creek Peter Spasov 25 Mount Baker Kathy Ourom 26 Mount Tontalus John Baldwin 27 Lake Lovely Water - Alpha Dorothy Fairley 29 Mount Sedgewick Trevor Boyd 31 Mount Rexford South-East Ridge Robin Bricel 32 Glacier Peak Jane Weller 34 Southern Tweedsmuir Park John Baldwin 35 Mount Garibaldi Dorothy Fairley 39 Falls River Expedition Steve Grant 40 Summer (poem) Margaret Simon 43 Autumn 1978 A Tea Party on the Chief Kathy Ourom 44 Gulf Islands Bicycle Tour Leon Kolankiewicz 45 Leavenworth Long Weekend Trevor Boyd 45 Mount Seymour Peter Spasov 46 Golden Ears Phil Hall 47 Rainbow Lake via Lizzie Lake Paul Phillips 48 Deek's Lake Mark Barley 50 Sedgewick Louise Hooley 51 A Stroll up Monte Rosa Bruce Fairley 53 The Second Annual Night Descent Dave Waldichuk 57 "Meadow" Section of the Great Divide Rob Boyce 58 Trail Diamond Head Hike Derek Smith 66 Mount Spickard Attempt Peter Wolfe 67 McGillivray Thanksgiving Trip Al Knutson 69 McGillivray Pass via B.C.R. Japhy Ryder 70 Cathedral Lakes Jane Weller 71 Mount Baker Climb Leon Kolankiewicz 72 Baker Ice School Phil Hall 74 Singing Pass Peter Spasov 75 Overlord Mountain Leon Kolankiewicz 76 The Black Mountain Saunter Paul Hooper 78 Mt. Jimmy Jimmy Steve Grant 79 Mt. Outram Steve Grant 79 Mt. Joffre Attempt Al Knutson 80 Olympic Mountains (Anderson Pass) Leon Kolankiewicz 81 Day Trip on the Neve Steve Grant 84 Winter 1978 McGillivray Pass Christmas Trip Louise Hooley 86 Food Planning McGillivray Christmas Trip Martin Trotter 88 Lizzie Creek Cabin Christmas Trip Graham Underhill 90 Black Tusk Christmas Trip Ron Balden 93 Shannon Falls Squamish, B.C. Julian Dunster 94 SPECIAL FEATURES Federation of Mountain Clubs of B.C. Leon Kolankiewicz 98 Further Uses of an Ice Axe Steve Grant 99 The Effect of Freeze-Thaw Cycles on John Baldwin 100 Climbing Slings V.O.C. Intramural Sports Anders Ourom 100 A Tribute to Dr. Neal Carter Karl Ricker 101 Logan - 1977 - Food List Jay Page 107 Life In The Bush Leon Kolankiewicz 110 The History of the Howe Sound Paul Hooper 113 Crest Trail Continents Apart: Mt. Blank Graham Fishlock 114 Aid Climbing on the Squamish Chief Julian Dunster 117 The Energetics of Locomotion P.S. Phillips 121 V.O.C. Dictionary P. Phillips, 126 A. Knutsen, L. Hooley The Evolution of the V.O.C. During the Seventies Helen Lemon 131 Searching with a Pieps Berni Claus 135 GENERAL CLUB ACTIVITIES VOC Social Calendar Prom March * 78 to February '79 March 31, '78 - Dinner at Paul Hooper's for incoming and outgoing executive members- April '78 - A month-long social event at Sphinx Camp. May 10, '78 - First summer meeting at Marianne Etchell's house. July 6, '78 - Second summer meeting at Anders Ourom's house. July 13'78 - Barbecue at Locarno Beach. July 20, *78 - Barbecue at John Baldwin's house. x Sept. llf ' 78 - Back to school summer reunion party at Graham Underbill's house. Sept. 23-24, '78 - Longhike at Squamish High School gym with day trips to Garibaldi Lake, Squamish Chief and Petgill Lake. Sept. 29f '78 - Good-bye party for Jay Page and Gail Franko at Hot Jazz. Oct. 27, '78 - Hallowe'en Party at Westlake Lodge. Nov. 7, '78 - Party at the White Spot Smorgasbord for John Baldwin's 21st. Nov. 24, '78 - Swimming Party at Lord Byng Pool. Pizza pigout afterward. Dec. 20, '78 - Christmas Party at Louise Hooley's house. Jan. 5, '78 - Ice skating on Deer Lake and party at John Baldwin's. Jan. 26, '78 - Christmas Reunion Party at Rob McLaren's house. Feb. 2, '78 - Swimming Party at Lord Byng Pool and yet another pizza pigout.