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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. (Masada); Sarah (Ein Bokek tourist office); OUR READERS Asaf Madmony (Ne’ot HaKikar); and, most Many thanks to the travellers who used especially, my wife, Rachel, and son, Yair, for the last edition and wrote to us with help­ their unwavering support, understanding and ful hints, useful advice and interesting patience. anecdotes: Orlando Crowcroft Ana van Es, Jilles van Dam, Mahmoud Muna, Mar- I would like to thank the staff and volunteers gaux Thierrée, Naomi Jenkins, Neal Hirst, Teresa at the Cinema Guest House and the Freedom Lampropoulos. Theatre in Jenin for their insights and advice on their city – past, present and future. Yazeed AUTHOR THANKS Abu Khdeir in Jerusalem, my fixer and friend and a partner on West Bank road trips too Daniel Robinson numerous to mention. Layla Torres in Bethle- Special thanks to (north to south): Talal (Mt hem. All the staff at Area D Hostel in Ramallah Hermon); Clery (Metulla); Irit Steinberg (Hula and International Friends Youth Hostel in Nature Reserve); Meni Tzuberi (Katzrin); Cha- Nablus; my homes away from home during noch (Yehudiyya); Ido Shaked (Gamla); Doron the research of this book. Hazem Balousha (Bikta b’Kadita); Riki & Dov Ruckenstein and and Heidi Levine, who looked after me in Gaza. Moshe Tov Kreps (Tzfat ); Tal Ben David (Rosh Lastly every West Bank taxi driver, coffee seller Pina); Etha & Erwin Frenkel (Korazim); Lilach or shopkeeper who went out of their way to (Majrase); Mariana Bravo (Magdala); Nissim put me on the right path when I pulled up and Mazig (Kursi); Moshe Ohz (Tiberias); Ayala & begged directions in broken Arabic. Ofer Markman, Roni Barziv and Mira Lugasi (Haifa); Egi (Hammat Gader); Maoz Yinon, Virginia Maxwell Linda Hallel, Sami Jabali & Silke, Emile Emran, Many thanks to Peter Handsaker and Pat Yale, Abed and Abu Ayyad of the White Mosque, and who accompanied me on two research trips to Tariq Bsoul of Nazarene Transport & Tourism Israel for this job, as well as to my expert co- (Nazareth); Vered (Belvoir); Sarinah Kalb and author Daniel Robinson and to locals Mira Mar- Leo, Bella and Shoshana (Tel Aviv); Noam (Ein cus, Oren Mor, Yael Biedermann, Maoz Inon, Feshkha); Michal and Sivan (Ein Gedi Nature Yaron Burgin, Naomi Dvora, Gal Mor, Lee Balot, Reserve); Shai (Ein Gedi Field School); Kfir Yoash Limon and Omer from the Overstay. 428 Jenny Walker Returning to Petra is always a great pleas- ure, not just on account of the spectacular ancient city, but also because the people of Wadi Musa and Umm Sayoun live up to their reputation for ‘heart and wit’. Thanks as ever BEHIND THE SCENES to all Jordanian friends who have helped over the years of engagement with this chapter and to my beloved husband, Sam Owen, who accompanied and supported as ever during research and write-up. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Cover photograph: Hisham’s Palace, West Bank, Vdovin Ivan/Alamy. Illustrations: pp50-1 by Javier Zarracina; pp338-9 by Michael Weldon. THIS BOOK ing author), Michael Kohn, Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, This 8th edition of Lonely Dan Savery Raz and Jenny Katie Connolly, Melanie Dankel, Planet’s Israel & the Pales- Walker. This guidebook was Kate Evans, Kirsten Rawlings tinian Territories guidebook produced by the following: Cover Researcher Naomi Parker was researched and written Destination Editor Helen Elfer Thanks to Elizabeth Jones, Kate by Daniel Robinson (coor- Product Editors Kate Chapman, Kiely, Ilana Kosky, Anne Mason, dinating author), Orlando Samantha Forge Kate Mathews, Claire Naylor, Crowcroft, Virginia Maxwell Book Designer Cam Ashley Karyn Noble, Katie O’Connell, and Jenny Walker. The pre- Lonely Planet Cartography, vious edition was written by Samantha Tyson Daniel Robinson (coordinat- ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 429 Index 1948 Arab-Israeli War 355 animals 392-3, see also Crusader 62, 167, 199 Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 12, individual species Mamluk 63, 273 150-3, 12 Appelfeld, Aharon 386 Ottoman 273 Balfour Declaration 353 A aquariums Banias Nature Reserve 246 Abbas, Mahmoud 221, 251, area codes 19, 408 345, 380 Underwater Observatory Armageddon, see Megiddo Banksy 256 Marine Park 320 Abdullah, King 357 Armenian ceramics 64 Basilica of the Annunciation Arabic 423-4 185, Abu Dis 261 art galleries 227, see also 193 Arad 305 basilicas, see churches, Abu Ghosh 103 museums Arafat, Yasser 263-4, 357-8, basilicas & chapels accommodation 401-2, see Chelouche Gallery 114 379 bathhouses 336 also individual locations Ein Hod Gallery 168 Arava, the 317-20 bats 392 language 421, 423 Ethiopian Arts Workshop Arch of Titus 348 Battle of Ein Jalut 201 price ranges 402 306 archaeological digs 60, 215, Acre, see Akko General Safed Exhibition beaches 20, 168, 215, 2, 10, 402, 410-11 226 , activities 22-5, 402-4, see 132 294-5 archaeological sites 332-3, Helena Rubenstein Alma Beach 121 also individual activities see also fortresses & Pavilion 110 Bat Galim Beach 158 African Hebrew Israelites palaces; ruins 366 Herzliya Museum of Beach Bar 173 Ancient Bathhouse 188 Modern Art 145 Agamon HaHula 236 Bograshov Beach 121 Ancient Katzrin Park 241 Ilana Goor Museum 118 Coral Beach Nature Agnon, Shmuel Yosef 386 Ancient Synagogue (Ein Museum on the Seam 70-2 Reserve 322 Aida Refugee Camp 259 Gedi) 289 Museum Without Walls Dolphinarium Beach 124 air travel 412-13 Beit She’an National 155 Eilat 322-3 Akhziv 182 Park 198 Negev Artists’ House 306 Ein Bokek Beach 298 Akhziv National Park 182 Bethsaida 215 Negev Museum of Art 306 Ein Gedi Beach 289 Akko (Acre) 14, 175-80, 178, Capernaum 214 Rubin Museum 110 2, 14, 192 Frischmann Beach 121 Crusader City 172 Spice Route Quarter 313 Al-Aqsa Mosque 49, 51, 60, Gordon Beach 121 Herodian Quarter Studio Magal 168 68, 84, 350, 51 Museum 61 HaDekel (Palm) Beach Tel Aviv Museum of Art Al-Bireh 262-5 Jerusalem Archaeological 323 110, 133 Al-Haram ash-Sharif 9, 47- Park & Davidson Centre Hilton Beach 121 Tiberias Open Air 52, 348, 349, 350, 50-1 59-60 Hof HaCarmel Beach 158 Museum 202 Al-Khader Church 262 Kursi National Park 218 Metzitzim Beach 121 Yad Gertrude Kraus 168 Allenby, Edmund 351 Magdala 208-9 Mineral Beach 293 arts 386-91 alpacas 314, 316 Masada 296 Netanya 146 Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue Al-Qasaba 274 Mey Kedem Tunnel 170 223 Nordau Beach 121 Amichai, Yehuda 386 Sebastiya 275-6 Ashkenazim 349, 363 North Beach 323 amusement parks, see also Tel Arad National Park 305 assassinations 277, 281, Tel Aviv-Jaffa (Yafo) water parks Tel Be’er Sheva 309 282, 357, 358, 359 121, 132 Kfar Blum Kayaks 239 Tel Dan Nature Reserve astronomy 314 Village Beach 323 King’s City & Funtasia 322 238 ATMs 406 Beatles, the 387 Mini Israel 104 Tel Hatzor 235-6 Avdat 308 Bedouin people 365 Ya’ar HaAyalim 245 Tel Maresha 104 Ayn Hawd 167-9 beer 369 Ani’am Artists Village 244 Tell Balata 275 breweries 242 archery 314 festivals 86, 266 architecture 108, 133 B Taybeh Beer Brewery 266 Baha’i faith 156 Bauhaus (International) Be’er Sheva 305-7, Map Pages 000 306 15, 108, 110, 155, 15 Baha’i Gardens (Akko Photo Pages Beit Alpha Synagogue 199 000 Beit Jalad (Jerusalem) 78 area) 180 430 Beit She’an 15, 198-9, 15 Caro Synagogue 223 Church of St Nico demus cinema 390-1 Beit She’an Valley 198-201 cash 18, 19, 406-7 & St Joseph of cinemas 86, 163, 217, Beit She’arim 165 cathedrals, see churches, Arimathea 147 265, 390 Belvoir 199 basilicas & chapels Church of St Peter of Circassian people 365 Gallicantu 66 Bethlehem 16, 253-60, caves City of David 66-7 Church of the 254, 16 Beit-Guvrin 103 climate 18, 198, see also Angels 260 INDEX checkpoints 261 Cave of Machpelah 273 individual regions Church of the clothing 74 Bethsaida 215 Cave of the 40 Holy Ascension 68 Monks 188 consulates 405 Bezalel Academy of Arts & Church of the Holy B-D Design 389 Dodim Cave 289 Constantine the Great 41, Sepulchre 54-8, 55, 350, 384 bicycling, see cycling Elijah’s Cave 157-8 82, 212 Bikta BeKadita 234 Flour Cave 290 Church of the courses birds 394 Maresha 103 Multiplication of cooking 171, 336 birdwatching 392, 394, Mt Sodom 301 the Loaves & Fishes Kabbalah 228 402-3 Rosh HaNikra Grottoes 209, 213 language 85, 122, 158 Eilat 325 182 Church of the Nativity cowboys 245 Hula Valley 236 Soreq Cave 103 255, 212 cranes 236 Black Hebrews, see African celebrity chefs 131 Church of the Pater Crusades, the 350-1 Noster 68 Hebrew Israelites cell phones 18, 408 culture 373-6 Church