From Beaches to Mountains: 38 walks and hikes in the Stavanger Region Ute Koninx and Rosslyn Nicholson Copyright © 2016 by Ute Koninx and Rosslyn Nicholson All photos and illustrations © by Ute Koninx and Rosslyn Nicholson Map data: Kartverket, Geovekst and kommunes ISBN: 978-82-303-3372-3 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, or by any means electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the authors, except for brief quotations used in reviews. This book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, resold, hired out or otherwise circulated without the authors’ prior consent in any form of binding, or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition, including this condition, being imposed on the subsequent purchaser. Comments on this guidebook and its content are more than welcome and will enrich potential future editions. Don’t hesitate to contact us: From beaches to mountains: 38 walks and hikes in the Stavanger Region on Facebook. Disclaimer: Although effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct at the time of publishing, the authors make no warranty about accuracy of its content and cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book. You are responsible for your own safety while hiking or otherwise enjoying the outdoors. Just because a trail is described in this book, it does not mean that it will necessarily be safe for you. Be aware that trail conditions may change over time and according to the weather, and make allowances for the limits of your party. Foreword The Stavanger region is a well-kept secret. Within a small area it contains a kaleidoscope of nature’s drama and beauty. Rough mountains, deep-cut fjords, delightful islands and windswept coasts may all be experienced on a day’s hike. Local Norwegian culture incorporates this marvellous resource, making it free for all to explore and enjoy. The Stavanger Turistforening (the local hiking association, or STF) maintains an extensive network of trails and cabins in the area. Combine this with easy access by means of an international airport, excellent ferry, road and rail connections, and it becomes natural that visitors are discovering this region. For those new to hiking or new to Stavanger, as we were a while ago, the first steps are often daunting. The aim of this book is very much to help you on the way and beyond. The hikes we present are suitable for many, be it a family wanting to go on an adventure, a group of friends exploring, or just you and your daypack. Equally they can be as easy or as challenging as you wish. We believe that there is something for everybody here in the Rogaland mountains and fjords! We hope to help all hikers feel like a local as they enjoy this most quintessential of Norwegian activities. Happy hiking! Ute Koninx and Rosslyn Nicholson Stavanger, October 2016 III 7.5 8.8 9.6 Stavanger and Sandnes: For hikes in this area, 9.2 please refer to inset map 8.3 8.10 on following pages 8.9 7.4 9.7 9.8 6.7 9.9 6.8 8.6 6.9 9.1 IV Introduction How to use this book Since you have picked up this guidebook in English, the chances are that you are either a visitor to the region or have moved here for reasons of study, work or family and don’t (yet) feel comfortable enough in your Norwegian language skills to navigate the hiking landscape by yourself. Or maybe you have hiked the ‘famous’ hikes and are now looking for less busy places that offer a true taste of what this accessible wilderness has to offer. The book is intended as a ‘how to’ and ‘where to’ guide. The first five chapters are dedicated to the ‘how to’ of enjoying hiking in this particular part of the world. Whether you are new to hiking or have many years of experience of hiking elsewhere, there is important information here. Local weather considerations, information on how to find the way and obtain adequate maps as well as equipment matters are covered. Additionally we provide ideas for eating well on the trail and ways to entice children, teenagers, and others to join in. The second part of the book is devoted to presenting 38 hikes in detail. They have been chosen from among the many because each offers something special. For every hike, there are directions to the start or parking area, a summary of important information, a sketch map, a detailed description of the hike including navigation tips, and any other highlights not to be missed. The hikes have been grouped according to length, height climbed and general difficulty. Chapter 6 showcases the urban walks on the doorstep, many with Sunday afternoon “waffle cafes”. Shorter walks are the subject of Chapter 7: here nature can be enjoyed without hiking very far. Chapter 8 introduces local hills: some much loved by visitors and some lesser known, but all with stunning views and exhilarating trails. The final chapter suggests ideas for longer hikes and overnight adventures. These are experiences for when you have broken in your boots and are ready to explore! Finally, for those who, after the Chapter 9 experiences, lust for more, Chapter 10 provides resources for taking your hiking passion further. In the famous quote of John Muir, “[...] find out going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity”. 1 Chapter 1: Making the most of the weather in Rogaland The weather in Rogaland is rarely still. It shifts through the seasons and from day to day: sometimes sun, sometimes rain and often something in the middle. Cooler northerly winds swing around to warmer southerly winds; morning mist can disappear by noon. Learn a little about the local climate, and this will help you to choose a walk that lets you appreciate the beauty of the region, whatever the weather brings. The Climate in Rogaland Rogaland straddles two climatic zones. The dominant climate, around Stavanger and the areas near the sea, is oceanic and mild. Infl uenced by the warm Atlantic Gulf Stream, winters aren’t as cold as might be expected this far north. Summer temperatures remain cool and pleasant, often with sea breezes. Further inland, towards the mountains, the climate shifts a little, towards a humid, mild, continental climate. We see this difference most in the winter. During the months of January, February, March and partly through April, the mountains become a playground for snow sports. Hiking is not possible due to the snow, but both cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are options instead. The coastal areas do expect a little snow each winter, but it tends to last only a few days. So, even when the higher mountains are inaccessible for hikers, the lower areas are not: with the exception of only a handful of days each year, Stavanger is a year-round hiking destination. The weather conditions and the clothes you will need to stay comfortable do change through the year though! Temperature and Rainfall The average temperature in Stavanger varies between a low of -1 and a high of 3ºC in January and February, the coldest months, and between 12-18º in July and August, the warmest months. Expect temperatures Making the most of the weather in Rogaland 3 Chapter 2: Finding the Way (GPS Not Necessary) This chapter is about navigating without 21st century aids. GPS systems and internet maps don’t always help in the hills, and there will always be a day when the batteries are dead and/or the phone is out of range. Since the start of the hike is the fi rst thing that must be found, the chapter begins with towns, counties, and the road, rail and ferry network in this region. Then some basic route-fi nding techniques are discussed. Finding the way on a hike in Norway is easier than in many other parts of the world, thanks to the local tradition of marking the trails. The layout of the region Norway is divided into regions, called Fylkes (Counties), which are subdivided into Kommunes. Each Kommune has it’s own local authority, but of course cooperation is common. Rogaland Fylke is located in the southwest of Norway. The area includes several fjords, some of which reach far inland. The longest is Lysefjord, which is 42km long, but there are several others nearly as long and no less scenic. The largest towns in Rogaland are located on the coast, with Haugesund at the far north and Egersund near the south of the area. Between these towns, the area around Stavanger and Sandnes forms the largest conurbation in Rogaland and the third largest in Norway. Stavanger is located on a peninsula, which is separated from the mountainous area to the east by Gandsfjord and Høgsfjord. To the north and east of Stavanger is an area of sea, within which there Finding the Way (GPS Not Necessary) 13 Chapter 3: Equipment Matters Local secrets for staying warm, dry and comfortable Equipment can make the difference between an unhappy and a happy hiker! The equipment needed for hiking will to some extent depend on the length of the hike, its location and the weather/season. Nevertheless it is important to note some overarching principles. For the trails presented in Chapter 6, city clothes and comfortable, sturdy shoes will mostly do the job, provided it is not too wet outside.