Retail Athens Hilton, Ilisia Good buys Landmark lodgings Every room in this 1960s building has a private balcony and is tastefully decorated with white 34 walls, wooden floors and a marble bathroom. Zeus + Dione, Kolonaki 46 Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, 115 28 Contemporary Hellenic 130 210 7281 000 athens.hilton.com During the crisis, Mareva Grabowski and Dimitra Kolotoura took a chance on a label Athens inspired by ancient Hellenic culture. Now InnAthens, Plaka their pieces can be found at more than 50 Sound of silence wholesalers worldwide. 21 Ploutarchou, 106 73 Think of Athens and the An olive’s toss from lively Syntagma Square, 130 210 7400 090 this storied building has had many guises in its zeusndione.com first things that spring to century-long history. mind are ancient ruins 3 Souri, 105 57 130 210 3258 555 Paraphernalia, Omonoia and camera-toting crowds innathens.com Unique pieces (before they hotfoot it to Food and drink This shop presents a forever-changing the island-bound ferries On the menu collection of furniture, lighting, jewellery, at the port of Piraeus, that accessories, plants and homeware – some new and others upcycled. Everything is is). It’s true, the Acropolis for sale, including the antique furniture on is ever present and during which smaller pieces are displayed, from the Café Avissinia, Monastiraki woodcarving counter to the mug rack. summer the city thrums with Old Athens 15 Ioannou Paparrigopoulou, 105 61 schools of holidaymakers. 130 213 0343 663 A cabinet of curiosities awaits in this classic paraphernalia.gr But there’s much more to the Athenian stop-in on Avissinias Square, home Greek capital than temples to a famous flea market. Chef Ketty Touros- Koufonikola has been collecting decorative Little Tree Books & Coffee, Makrigianni and tourists. Strap up your pieces for decades, creating a cosy space packed Pages with perks sandals and allow us to with tapestries, oil paintings and ceramics. 7 Kinetou, 105 55 They say that too many cooks spoil the broth introduce you to this chaotic 130 210 3217 047 but, despite being managed by eight owners, cafeavissinia.com Little Tree Books & Coffee is a wonderfully but ever-so-charismatic city. calm space near the buzzing Acropolis Museum. The titles are mostly Greek (often in Cherchez La Femme, Syntagma their English translation) but there are a few Piece of Paris French and Italian classics too. Need to know 2 Kavalloti, 117 42 Get to grips with the basics This is a polished breed of kafeneio, a place 130 210 9243 762 where you can sample meze while sipping ouzo or wine. Highlights include the saganaki (pan- fried cheese) with marmalade and the aromatic Savapile, Psyri 01 Rules of the road: Zebra crossings here are keftedakia (meatballs). Straw draws no more than stretches of road stamped 46 Mitropoleos, 105 63 with sketchy white stripes. Don’t expect to 130 210 3222 020 Savapile’s handmade straw hats have adorned make it across in one piece while tapping cherchezlafemme.gr heads in Athens since 1960. The brand has away on your phone; this is a look-both- grown from humble origins, with founder Sava ways kind of city. Sarigiannidis starting out using pots and pans 02 Opening hours: Shops tend to open every Queen Bee, Kolonaki for moulds. day except for Sunday, with early afternoon Regal selection 14 Agias Eleousis, 105 54 breaks on Tuesdays, Thursdays and 130 210 3217 087 Fridays, and 15.00 closures on Mondays, Laid out on the counter at this popular café Wednesdays and Saturdays. you’ll find French pastries (including the best Vocabulary 03 Eating out: Eating out in Athens is a laid- croissants in town), cakes and sandwiches (try Local lingo back affair; you’ll never be told, on making the mortadella focaccia). a reservation, that the restaurant needs the 45 Patriarchou Ioakeim, 106 76 table back after an hour and a half (London 130 210 7209 933 and New York, here’s looking at you). 01 Yassas: Hello/goodbye 04 Political unrest: Athens is no stranger to 02 Pame! Let’s go! political demonstrations. Though it’s not Warehouse, Exarcheia 03 Yamas! Cheers! rare to see road closures in the city centre, Speciality brews 04 Parakalo: Please protests are mostly peaceful. 05 Efharisto: Thank you 05 Money matters: By and large, cash is king Greek barista George Loukas serves single- in Athens but card payment is on the rise. origin coffee and speciality blends from Africa Most taxis only accept cash so make sure and Latin America, as well as hot chocolate you have euros to hand before hopping in. prepared with Valrhona chocolate. At 13.00, 34 the space turns into a bar-cum-restaurant. 21 Valtetsiou and Mavromichali, 106 80 Athens Hotels Need to Hotels Food and Retail Essays know H F drink R E Culture Design and Sport and Walks Out of Get a room 130 215 5408 002 C D architecture S fitness O town Tavernas. Coffee. Ouzo — Cinemas. Museums. Monuments — Jewellers. Markets. Design warehouseproject.gr Perianth Hotel, Syntagma The Clumsies, Syntagma New kid on the block Trip over yourself to get here A new addition to the Athens hotel scene, The cocktail list at this all-day bar is a Perianth opened its doors in summer 2018, kaleidoscope of spirits, infusions, spices and creating a welcome design-led outpost in the fruit, artfully blended into drinks with names ... Kalimera! Stroll with us through the city’s outposts buzzing heart of the city. such as Eau de Vie Fashioned. of good food, design, retail and more. Pame! ... 2 Limpona, 105 60 30 Praxitelous, 105 61 130 210 3216 660 130 210 3232 682 Buy today at all good bookshops or visit the online perianthhotel.com theclumsies.gr shops at monocle.com and shop.gestalten.com.