s MEN’S: RETAIL: Mitchells s NEWS: British plots the rebirth of British prime Wilkes Bashford, coroner issues minister pages 8 and 9. s report on candidates Lee Alexander EYE: Charlize in their McQueen’s Theron’s charity own style, suicide, honored in L.A., page 10. s page 2. page 4. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 29, 2010 • $3.00 WWDTHURSDSportswear/Men’sAY Good Taste NEW YORK — In the era of the Food Network and shows like “Top Chef,” looking stylish is becoming a vital part of a cook’s repertoire. Scott Conant, here in his own Ermenegildo Zegna suit at Faustina, his newest restaurant, is one of several high-profile chefs who have taken an interest in fashion — and the ways it influences their food. For more, see pages 6 and 7. EXCLUSIVE Talking Fast Fashion: Jil Sander on Uniqlo And Her New World By Amanda Kaiser WWD TOKYO — It’s clear to just about anyone in fashion that Jil Sander, known for her Men’s meticulous attention to detail, isn’t an easy person to please. But it seems she has finally found her ideal business partner in Uniqlo parent Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. “They’re quite fast. They call themselves Fast Retailing,” the German designer said in an interview over tea and coffee at the Four Seasons Hotel here. More than a year into her partnership with Uniqlo, for which she has turned out two collections of her new +J brand, Sander said she is getting the support she needs to carry out her vision of high-quality basic apparel replete with her minimalist signature and affordable price tags. See Sander, Page3 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 29, 2010 WWD.COM Coroner Issues Report on McQueen Death By Nina Jones the court that on two occasions, in May and July of last year, the designer had tried to over- WWDTHURSSportswear/Men’sDAY LONDON — Depression, anxiety, and work pres- dose on sleeping pills and painkillers. Pereira FASHION sure all contributed to the suicide in February described these attempts as “cries for help.” of Lee Alexander McQueen, according to the Pereira added that when McQueen was referred 6 In the era of the Food Network and shows like London coroner investigating the case. to him in July, he found he had a mixed anxiety “Top Chef,” looking stylish is becoming a vital But it was also clear McQueen died of a bro- and depressive disorder. part of a cook’s repertoire. ken heart at the final blow of his mother’s death. “He was certainly very pressurized by work,” GENERAL On Wednesday, Paul Knapman, M.D., presented said Pereira. “It was like a double-edged sword. It his findings to about 30 people — including mem- was the only area of his life he felt he had achieved 1 Jil Sander, known for her meticulous attention to bers of McQueen’s family, his friend Annabelle something, but after a show he felt a huge come- detail, isn’t an easy person to please. But it seems Neilson and the press — at Westminster Coroner’s down. It gave him a high, but also a severe low.” she has finally found her ideal business partner in Court here and officially closed the inquest. Pereira also said that McQueen felt “let down by Uniqlo parent Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. After hearing evidence from McQueen’s friends who had taken advantage of who he was.” PPR reported its first quarterly sales increase since psychiatrist, his housekeeper and police who Pereira prescribed McQueen antidepressants 2 investigated the case, Knapman concluded the and referred him to a clinical psychologist, but he the start of the recession, saying revenues inched designer “killed himself while the balance of his soon stopped taking the drugs and failed to appear up 1.2 percent in the first three months of the year, mind was disturbed.” at many of the appointments made boosted by strong sales at Gucci Group. The court heard McQueen’s Alexander with the psychologist. Pereira also 8 Bob Mitchell, co-president of the Mitchells Family of body was found by his house- McQueen stressed the impact on McQueen Stores, outlines the company’s plan to stabilize and keeper, Cesar Garcia, hanging of the death of his mother, Joyce, revitalize Wilkes Bashford in San Francisco. from a belt in a wardrobe at on Feb. 2. “He was very close to his apartment in Green Street, his mother,” said Pereira. “[When DENIM: Citizens of Humanity founder Jerome s 12 Mayfair, the morning of Feb. 11. she died] he felt that link had gone Dahan wants a global footprint for the premium A postmortem found he died from his life, which made his life denim company and believes he has the pieces in from asphyxia due to hanging, very difficult.” place to make it happen. while toxicology reports found Summing up the evidence, Aggressive inventory management helped Jones “significant levels” of cocaine in Knapman noted that “it is such 14 Apparel Group Inc. post higher-than-expected his blood, along with Zopiclone, a pity for a man from a modest first-quarter profits Wednesday as the firm raised a prescription sleeping pill, and start, who rose to the pinnacle of revenue guidance for the year. Midazolam, a tranquilizer. There his profession in only a decade, were also lacerations to his wrists, to die in such tragedy,” he said. EYE and a knife and dagger were dis- “It seems that he had a past his- covered in the designer’s bed- tory of self-harm, and no doubt 4 Charlize Theron was the guest of honor at a fete Dior room and bathroom. A laptop fueled by cocaine, he resorted to Looks from Citizens of and Vogue threw on Tuesday night to celebrate the in McQueen’s bedroom had an desperate measures.” Humanity’s fall line. Charlize Theron Africa Outreach Program. Internet page open displaying a page that asked Robert Polet, president, chief executive offi- Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................15 the question, “When someone slits their wrists, how cer and chairman of Gucci Group, which owns a TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS long does it take for them to die?” majority stake in McQueen’s label, and Jonathan [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s NAME. Knapman paraphrased a note written by Akeroyd, ceo of Alexander McQueen, issued a WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 McQueen that was found at the scene. “It could joint statement Wednesday following the inquest: FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. be described as saying his goodbyes,” he said, “Today is a difficult day for all of us who knew VOLUME 199, NO. 91. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and adding the last lines read: “Please look after my and worked with Lee. Whatever the circumstanc- November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine dogs. Sorry, I love you. Lee.” The designer had es of his passing, Lee will be remembered by all Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; three dogs. of us who had the privilege of calling him a col- Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional “It was obvious what he intended,” Knapman league and a friend as a rare talent, a true genius mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration added. The note was written on the back of a book and a brilliant creative force, who has left us with No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North called “The Descent of Man,” a series of pencil a legacy that we will honor and cherish.” Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: drawings by the artist Wolfe von Lenkiewicz that McQueen’s family issued a statement through Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. depict Darwin-inspired images such as Marilyn their lawyers: “Today’s inquest has obviously Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If Monroe with a horse’s body and a Jesus-like fig- been very difficult for the family, as we are still during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with ure with a butterfly in place of a head. McQueen’s coming to terms with the loss of Lee in such trag- your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be final ready-to-wear show for spring 2010 counted ic circumstances. Those who were privileged to mailed within four weeks after receipt of order.