C M Y K Sxxx,2015-11-29,TR6,Bs-4C,E1 6 TR THE NEW YORK TIMES, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2015 36 Hours ADELAIDE, AUSTRALIA No longer simply the capital of a celebrated wine region, the city has seen a revival of an arts scene among other draws. By SARAH KHAN ONLINE: AN OVERVIEW Adelaide is Australia’s unsung city, a per- Check out our interactive map at fectly pretty destination on the southern nytimes.com/travel. coast, whose many charms are regularly eclipsed by the more glamorous Sydney and Melbourne. Most tourists who do fly into lars) at Barakah Pizza & Kebab House, in Adelaide are more often than not merely the old Post Office building; churros (8 dol- availing themselves of its airport en route to lars) at St. Louis House of Fine Ice Cream & nearby Kangaroo Island or South Dessert; and coffee or a cocktail at the Australia’s 18 celebrated wine regions, stylish new Moseley Bar & Kitchen, where which have made Adelaide Australia’s wine seating options include swings suspended capital. But these days the city is shining as from the ceiling and behemoth wicker a destination in its own right, and those who thrones. Work it all off with a stroll along the do decide to stay are in for a treat: Adelaide pier — Adelaide’s setting on the western has elegant architecture and colonial beauty edge of a peninsula means that despite be- to spare, and a revival of independent cafes ing in southern Australia, Glenelg counts a and bars and a booming arts scene have stunning sunset among its charms. lately given the city a creative edge. So go ahead and fly through Adelaide on the way to its scenic neighbors — just make sure you •9 7 P.M. STREET EATS spend a few days exploring the city as well. Couldn’t get a booking at Jock Zonfrillo’s Orana, or aren’t in the mood for a formal, drawn-out tasting menu? Don’t fret — Adelaide’s most celebrated fine-dining restaurant has a rebellious younger sister Friday downstairs. At the laid-back, cafeteria-style 1 2 P.M. CASUAL LUNCH Street ADL, Mr. Zonfrillo plies his spins on • global street-food favorites. Grab a spot at a Perhaps inspired by Melbourne, whose nar- communal table and order barbecue lamb row lanes are known for their hip cafes and ribs (32 dollars), fiery chicken skewers (26 boutiques, Adelaide’s side streets are hav- dollars), or two adventurous takes on a clas- ing something of a moment. Experience the sic — croc dog (crocodile, potato skins, cur- vibe on Ebenezer Place, which is lined with ried tomato sauce) or hop dog (kangaroo, an eclectic mix of businesses; last year, a jalapeños, chipotle mayo) — for 11 dollars popular suburban establishment, Parwana each. It’s a far cry from the inventive mod- PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID MAURICE SMITH FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES Afghan Kitchen, opened a sister restaurant, ern Australian cuisine being served in the the pint-size Kutchi Deli Parwana. This Above, at the bar at Jock intimate dining room at Orana, but the bois- branch is daubed in bright shades of FROME RD. Zonfrillo’s Street ADL. On the terous vibe is livelier, and you won’t be 12 turquoise and serves delicious, reasonably AdeA elaidedeeOe OvOval Adelaide Torrens River, which runs shelling out for the 155-dollar set menu (295 priced Afghan street-food favorites: lamb A21A221 through the city, and on the dollars with wine) upstairs. mantu, or dumplings (13 Australian dollars, terrace at the 2KW bar and or $9.50 at 1.36 Australian to the U.S. dollar), AdelaAdA aidaide Botanic BotanBotaniBo nic Gardenn 7 restaurant. 10 9 P.M. COCKTAIL HOUR eggplant borani with yogurt sauce (13 dol- NationaNati nall • lars), and bolani turnovers stuffed with ArtAr Gallery of Soouthouuth AustraliaAu WineneeCe CenterCeennt RIVERVEV ER TORRENS IF YOU GO Ever since its buzzed-about January open- pumpkin or minced lamb (10 dollars). On a 2 ing, 2KW has made itself a requisite stop on OneO RundlRunndlelee Tradinga Comppany sunny day, order a few dishes and take a 1 Kutchi Deli Parwana, 7 Adelaide’s night-life scene. It’s not hard to 2KWK Bar anda d RestauR rarantan 10 3 seat on the sidewalk to soak in the atmos- Feliciici Espressoesssso BarBaB Ebenezer Place; kutchi.com.au. see why: A perch atop the 2 King William phere. NORNNORTHTH TERRACETERRACER 5 Africolar 2 Art Gallery of South Austral- Street building guarantees panoramic views. Aside from an extensive wine list, BibliothecaBibliothehe a Barar UrbanUrbaU aan Cow w Studioio 4 ia, North Terrace; artgallery and Bookoko ExchangeEx hhaangea e choose from creative 18-dollar cocktails like 2 3 P.M. ARTY AFTERNOON Haigh’sh 9 StStreet t ADL .sa.gov.au. • ChocolatesChocolatoco tee KutchiKutc Delie PPaarwana 1 Les Burdett (rye, black tea, cherry, orange) JammFactoryF The Art Gallery of South Australia houses 1 3 Felici Espresso Bar, 261 MayfairM f r HotelHootelte KIN KutchiK hi DeDeliDe Parwawana or Britannia Roundabout (vodka, blueber- NG Rundle Street; feliciespressobar an expansive collection in its stately build- GRENFELLG R E F E SST.T ries, anise). For a more intimate evening, G WILLIAM ST. ing on Adelaide’s North Terrace, a leafy CURRIERRIE STST.ST.S T W .com.au. One Rundle Trading pop into another newcomer nearby: The HeyHeyy Jupiter 11 boulevard lined with grand monuments and L Company, 237 Rundle Street; cozy Bibliotheca Bar & Book Exchange, PIRIEE ST.S T. University of Adelaide buildings. Inside, ad- WAYMOUTHW O U T ST. IA onerundle.com.au. JamFactory, tucked away in the Gresham Street mission is free to most exhibitions, and you Ground Floor, Rundle Mall laneway, has local wines for 10 dollars a can browse Australian, Aboriginal and Eu- Franklina l BoutiqueB u qu Hotelo Plaza; jamfactory.com.au. glass, literary-themed drinks like the He- ropean art, and even a small Islamic gallery. FRANKLINRA L N ST.STS T. mingway Daiquiri (rum, cherry, lime, Bay Discoiscovveryy Centerr AdelaideAAdddeelaideella dede Haigh’s Chocolates, 2 Rundle If you’re in town early in the month, you’re in grapefruit, 18 dollars) and walls lined with Adelaided a d 8 COLLEYC Y TERR.R Mall; haighschocolates.com.au. luck: The museum stays open until 9 p.m. on Centralentralr l Marketarketk t A6A6 books that patrons are welcome to swap. First Fridays, with a festive program of live 6 Baarrakahah Pizza 4 Urban Cow Studio, 11 Frome GROTER O ST.S A15AA11 music, guided tours and talks with featured andd Kebabb A5A5 Street; urbancow.com.au. St.S Louiss A14AA114 artists in the evening. Mosseley Bar HouseHHooouse ofo Fine A3A3 5 Africola, 4 East Terrace; & KitchenKi e Icece Creama & A1313 africola.com.au. Sunday Map datada a byy OpenStreetMapeenStree M Desserte 3 5 P.M. PEDESTRIAN PROMENADE 6 Adelaide Central Market, 11 9 A.M. MORNING GLORY • THE NEW YORK TIMES 44-60 Gouger Street; • Adelaide’s main promenade is Rundle Mall, adelaidecentralmarket.com.au. Brekkie is serious business in Oz, and you’ll a long pedestrianized artery, home to the find one of Adelaide’s best morning menus 7 Adelaide Botanic Garden, city’s best shopping and restaurants. Take a been bringing the flavors of his home coun- Algerian fare at Le Souk and smoothies at at Hey Jupiter. Start off with a refreshing leisurely stroll, but bypass the department try to Australia. Africola’s interiors are a Tony’s Juice Bar. You can eat well for less North Terrace; apple-mint-watermelon juice (7.50 dollars) stores and chain restaurants in favor of nod to the shebeens (taverns) of the town- than 20 dollars. environment.sa.gov.au before ordering the baked eggs cocotte with stops at the stylish Felici Espresso Bar, the ships, with colorful murals, repurposed /botanicgardens/Home. potato rosti, mushrooms, cheese and toma- housewares shop One Rundle Trading Com- Coke bottles (here doubling as chile-sauce National Wine Center of Aus- to (16.50 dollars) or the Belgian waffle with 7 11 A.M. GARDEN VARIETY pany, the Australian design emporium Jam- dispensers), bright fabrics and plastic • tralia, corner of Botanic and berries, mint and vanilla labneh (15.50 dol- Factory and the original outpost of menus illustrated with Mandela motifs. In a city full of parks, the Adelaide Botanic Hackney Roads; wineaustralia lars). High ceilings make the petite cafe Australia’s family-owned Haigh’s Choc- This kitschy space serves as a theater for Garden (free) is a particularly lovely one. .com.au. seem larger than it is; walls have cheery flo- olates, set in a Gothic heritage building at Mr. Welgemoed’s modern riffs on tradi- Amateur horticulturists will want to me- ral wallpaper and are adorned with gilded 8 Bay Discovery Center, Beehive Corner that looks like a confection tional South African cuisine: a braai (barbe- ander through the lush habitats: a garden of mirrors and vintage posters with a sci-fi itself. cue) plate (32 dollars) with boerewors health featuring 2,500 plants known for Glenelg Town Hall, Moseley bent. Colorful tables spill out onto Ebenezer sausages, peri-peri chicken, pap (maize their healing properties, an international Square, Glenelg, 61-8-8179- Place. porridge) and sheba (tomato sauce); rose garden with 5,000 species, and an 9508. Barakah Pizza and Ke- 4 7 P.M. HANDMADE HAVEN bunny chow (curried lamb in a bun, 10 dol- Australian native garden dedicated to re- bab, 15 Moseley Square, • 12 1 P.M. A SPORTING AFFAIR For a souvenir that reflects Adelaide’s cre- lars); or the vegetable of the moment, gional flora.