Changes in Nikkei Cuisine, as Viewed from Recipe Books （Brazil） Research Fellow, Institute for Migration and Ethnic Culture Studies, Waseda University Shigeru Kojima Introduction Japanese term is still used in many parts of Brazil. Japanese who have migrated overseas have made What comes to our mind first when we think of the diverse contributions to their new countries. Many contributions these women made, as mothers in famous Nikkei (Japanese immigrants and their Japanese immigrant families, are recipes. I thought descendants) can be found in diverse fields such as that recipes would reflect the efforts and ingenuity of agriculture, education, culture and sports. At the same these women, and represent the thoughts of mothers time, contributions made by less lauded common living in a foreign land, though individual names of the Nikkei are also important. The term "Japonês contributors are not shown. That was the reason I Garantido" (literally meaning Japanese guaranteed) began collecting recipe books. heard in Brazil is evidence of the favorable While collecting recipe books, I found that there are contributions Japanese have made locally. It signifies more records around, including those published, not symbolic contributions made by particular printed or otherwise, than I had expected. Although I individuals, but that the multitude of ordinary Nikkei have already collected a considerable number of recipe people as a whole have been recognized and books, I am still continuing to collect as I learned from appreciated as being diligent, honest and trustworthy Nikkei women in many parts of Brazil that a great by the communities they live in. It reflects a collective number of them have been made through the years. heritage of community. Among the contributions made This article is a report on a work in progress. by these nameless ordinary Nikkei that haven't received much attention are those made by the women Research of Recipe Books who take care of the home. Looking through the recipe books I have collected so The woman's role has included, in addition to far, I have come to notice that four points stand out for housework, child rearing, helping with family work, me. Hence, I introduce the contents of these books and community activities as members of fujin-kai with a focus on these four points: (women’s societies), as evident from the fact that this - Classification of recipe books: What kinds of recipe books can be found? - Producers and purposes of the recipe books: Who made them and why? Shigeru Kojima - Background details of the books production and era: A research fellow at the Institute for Migration For what occasions were they published? and Ethnic Culture Studies, Waseda University. Born in Sanjo City, Niigata Prefecture. As a - Contents of recipe books: What are the contents? student at Sophia University, he went to study And most particularly, how have the dietary habits of in Brazil and earned a master’s degree in Japanese in Brazil changed? Social History at the Graduate School, Federal University of Paraná. After traveling throughout Classification of recipe books: Brazil by bus, he became a fervent admirer of the country, and was inspired to engage in immigrant What kinds of recipe books can be found? studies in Curitiba, the capital of the state of Paraná. He lived there for Recipe books introduced in this article are listed as roughly 10 years before returning to Japan. He worked at a university and references at the end of this report. As I collected only elsewhere, and helped establish the JICA Yokohama Japanese Overseas Migration Museum, where he currently works in the Project Managementv recipe books in which Nikkei or Japanese who went to Division. He is interested in the history of Japanese immigrants, the live abroad are somewhat involved, the books are identity of the Nikkei, and changes in Nikkei communities in multicultural limited to those planned and published outside Japan. societies such as Brazil, the US and Canada. His main research themes In an attempt to classify them, they can be divided into include festivals, ethnic enclaves, foods and translation. the following four categories: FOOD CULTURE 3 1) Recipes written by Nikkei women for Nikkei people ●●● 2) Recipes that introduce foods as part of an How to discern and buy good ingredients, How to introduction of immigrant culture prepare meat, Soups, Sauces, Salads and gelatin, Seafood, 3) Recipes written to introduce healthy foods and local foods Pasta, Rice, Meat, Offal, Eggs, Bread, Beans, Vegetables, 4) Recipes written to introduce Japanese dishes and Sandwiches, Candies, Biscuits, Cream, Cakes, Sweets, Japanese cuisine to Brazilians How to make dashi broth, Kamaboko (steamed fish Although above four categories are not necessarily paste), Simmered dishes, Sushi, Vinegared dishes and distinct, they serve as a rough guide. However, as sashimi, Deep-fried dishes, Roasted dishes, Japanese space is limited, this article will focus on the first two confectioneries, Coffee and teas, Preserved foods, categories. One week menu plan, Japanese meal menus in Brazil (for guests and for ordinary meals), Menu for wedding receptions 1) Recipes Written by Nikkei Women for ●●● Nikkei people The contents cover topics exhaustively and in great detail. The 13th edition was a voluminous, 3-cm The books in this category are listed from ① to ⑦ in the references. Their authors are first, second or third thick book of 432 pages. The preface to the second generation Nikkei, though in later publications non- edition in 1940 stated that it was hoped this would Nikkei authors are included. be a guidebook to those who want to get a cozinheira (cook) or doceira (confectioner) job in upscale Brazilian households. As such, this book contains The first book of this category is Jitsuyotekina detailed information concerning food culture in Brazil Brazil-shiki Nippaku Ryori to Seika no Tomo (A that would assist people looking to work for Brazilian Guide to Practical Japanese-Brazilian Dishes and families. Considering the language handicap, social status and other conditions faced by Nikkei at that Confectioneries) ①. The author, Hatsue Sato was born in 1901, and moved to Brazil in 1924. She published the time, it was an astounding feat to complete such a first edition of this book 10 years later in 1934. According voluminous book only 10 years after her arrival in to the 13th edition (4th bilingual edition in Japanese and Brazil. Portuguese) in 1983, the 8th edition published in 1963 was This book has some unique characteristics. For one, it the first Portuguese edition, and the 10th edition in 1971 has remained generally consistent without any major was the first bilingual edition in Japanese and Portuguese, changes, though gradual revisions were made as newer making the book a longtime seller. It is a handbook of editions were published. Secondly, it is written in the life in general as it relates to food in Brazil, and serves colônia language (a pidgin language of Portuguese as a virtual bible on foods. It appears that many Nikkei and Japanese that was spoken at that time by Nikkei in women have gained a lot from this book. H. Sato was an Brazil). immigrant and imparted broadly ranged knowledge and Because of this bookʼs consistency over the years, we techniques gained from her experience in living in Brazil can learn more about how people ate and prepared to other Nikkei women throughout this book. Its preface food at the time it was first published. For example, states that the base of any culture is nutrition, and that the reading through the book, I came up with a question book is intended to be used as a cookbook of dishes that about ingredients and seasonings referred to in the anyone can easily prepare using inexpensive ingredients recipes. I wondered how available the ingredients obtainable in Brazil. The book is divided into the large were that frequently appear in the book, such as soy categories of Must Do’s at the Table, Manners and sauce, sake, Ajinomoto (monosodium glutamate), Etiquette, Brazilian Dishes, Sweets, and Japanese Dishes, wasabi, burdock, daikon radish, lotus root, shiitake each of which is further subdivided into specific items. mushroom, kamaboko, konjac, aburaage (deep-fried Typical subdivisions include the following: sliced tofu), kombu kelp, and kanpyo (dried shavings ① of gourd). I presumed they were readily obtainable, as this book was read broadly and people would not buy a cookbook filled with ingredients that were difficult to find. Certainly, soy sauce and miso would have been readily obtainable, as commercial brewing of soy sauce began in Brazil around 1913, while soy sauce breweries and tofu and udon noodles shops were established in increasing numbers in the 1920s and 1930s. Ajinomoto would not have been broadly marketed before World War II, as Ajinomoto Company only established a sales office in Brazil in 1954 (and an import and distribution company in 1956). However, it may have been readily available before that time via unofficial distribution channels and independent importers. Regarding ingredients, the background is described by Hiroshi Saito (Reference ⑧). Hatsue Sato, Jitsuyotekina Brazil-shiki Nippaku Ryori to Seika no Tomo, 1940 4 FOOD CULTURE ●●● on practicality, as well as out of consideration for "Comfort foods from home such as shiso (perilla), newly arrived immigrants. The Portuguese title of the burdock, myoga ginger, kuwai (arrowhead tubers), udo bilingual editions is Arte Culinária Nipo-Brasileira (Japanese spikenard), sansho (Japanese pepper), and (Japanese-Brazilian Art of Cooking). Judging from lotus roots can be obtained at morning marketplaces the contents, the book is essentially a record of food that open one day each week. These ingredients have culture and life in Nikkei communities in Brazil. That not been propagated among Brazilians. A morning the book is still being used today is testimony to its marketplace called feira is held weekly at 50 to 60 lasting effectiveness.