Contents 1. Introduction 1 Using This Book 1 The National Garment Cutter System 2 The Patterns and Instructions 2 Using Apportioning Scales 3 Drafting the Pattern 4 Finishing the Pattern 4 Drafting a Ladies’ Basque 4 Taking the Measures 4 Drafting the Bodice 5 Correcting the Waist Length 6 Correcting the Waist Size 8 Drafting the Sleeve 8 Correcting the Sleeve Length 10 Determining Seam Allowances 10 2. Under-Garments, Négligé Wear, And Night-Gowns 13 Drawers with Yoke 16 Drawers with Yoke 17 Pompadour Chemise 18 Ladies’ Chemise 19 Night-Gown with Yoke Front 20 Night-Gown with Yoke Front 23 Sack Night-Gown 24 Sack Night-Gown 26 Short Sack Night-Wrapper 27 Morning Dress 28 Négligé Toilette 31 Ladies’ Négligé 32 3. Wrappers and Tea Gowns 34 Tea Gown 35 Wrapper or Tea Gown 38 vii Contents Tea Gown 40 Spanish Girdle 46 Trained Wrapper 47 Tea Gown 51 Tea Gown 57 Wrapper or Tea Gown 62 Tea Gown 64 Tea Gown in the Directoire Style 69 Tea Gown with Angel Sleeves 71 Watteau Wrapper 73 Ladies’ Wrapper 78 Ladies’ Wrapper 79 Watteau Wrapper 80 Ladies’ Wrapper 82 Tea Gown 83 4. Skirts and Over-Skirts 88 Plain Skirt with Drapery 90 Walking Skirt 94 Walking Skirt 95 Skirt with Scarf Drapery 96 Walking Skirt 99 Walking Skirt 100 5. Ensembles with Bodices, Skirts, And Draperies 101 Street Costume with Wrap 103 Ladies’ Wrap 112 Street Costume with Wrap 113 Ladies’ Wrap 121 Walking-Length Skirt 122 Ladies’ Costume 123 French Basque 131 Ladies’ Costume 132 Basque That Buttons at the Back 138 Peasant Bodice 139 House Dress 140 Street Costume 148 Jacket with Bell Sleeves 154 Wrap with Bell Sleeves 155 Street Costume 156 Ladies’ Basque 163 Ladies’ Basque 164 viii Contents Street Costume 165 Ladies’ Jacket 174 Street Costume 175 Round Bodice 180 Walking Skirt 181 Street Costume 182 Walking Skirt 188 Street Costume 189 Ladies’ Basque 197 Walking Skirt 198 Ladies’ Costume 199 Walking Skirt 205 Petticoat with Yoke 205 Petticoat at Full-Train, Demi-Train, or Walking Length 206 Costume with Prince Albert Coat 207 6. Ensembles with Polonaises 216 Street Costume 218 Four-Gored Skirt 223 Four-Gored Skirt 224 Ladies’ Costume 225 Ladies’ Costume 233 Street Costume 235 Directoire Costume 240 Directoire Costume 248 Polonaise in the Directoire Style 250 Costume in the Directoire Style 252 Redingote Costume 254 Coat Polonaise in the Directoire Style 260 Ladies’ Polonaise 262 Coat in the Directoire Style 264 Coat with Puffed Sleeves 266 Ladies’ Jacket 267 Street Costume 268 Ladies’ Jacket 275 Ladies’ Directoire 276 Costume in the Directoire Style 282 Coat Polonaise in the Directoire Style 284 Coat Polonaise 286 Four-Gored Skirt 288 Street Costume 289 Directoire Costume 298 ix Contents Street Costume 300 Kilt Skirt 307 Stout Ladies’ Costume 308 Ladies’ Coat 314 Street Costume 316 Ladies’ Polonaise 323 Ladies’ Costume 329 7. Dresses 331 House Dress 334 House Dress 338 Full, Round Walking Skirt 339 House Dress 340 Ladies’ Basque 346 Pointed Bodice 347 Walking Skirt 348 Empire Dress 349 Dress in the First Empire Style 352 Evening Costume 354 Surplice Bodice 358 Full Skirt 359 Empire Costume 360 Street Costume 362 Old English Basque 370 Old English Polonaise 371 Evening Costume 373 Court Bodice 376 Evening Bodice with Medici Collar 377 Evening Bodice with Pompadour Neck 378 Pointed Evening Basque 379 Evening Bodice 380 8. Sports Outfits 381 Lawn Tennis Costume 382 Yoke Blouse 388 Yoke Bodice 389 Box-Plaited Skirt 390 Tennis or Walking Skirt 391 Lawn Tennis Costume 393 Lawn Tennis Costume 399 Riding Habit 401 Riding Habit 406 Ladies’ Basque 409 x Contents 9. Jackets and Outer Wear 410 Street Jacket with Hood 412 Jacket with Hood 415 Norfolk Jacket 416 Short Wrap 417 Ladies’ Wrap 419 Ladies’ Wrap 420 Ladies’ Wrap 421 Long Wrap 423 Long Wrap 426 Ladies’ Wrap 428 Long Wrap 429 Ladies’ Coat 433 Coat with Organ-Pipe Plaits 435 Coat with Bell Sleeves 437 Coat with Angel Sleeves 438 Ladies’ Pelisse 439 Ladies’ Cloak 440 Ulster and Garrick Cape 441 Coat with Triple Cape 446 Coat Polonaise with Removable Capes 448 Directoire Cape 449 10. Trimmings 450 Ensembles 451 Bodices and Jackets 468 Sleeves 476 Skirts and Draperies 478 11. Accessories 482 Collars, Jabots, Fichus, Chemisettes, Etc. 482 Hats and Bonnets 497 Other Accessories 521 A. Apportioning Scales and Scroll 526 B. Metric Conversion Table 543 C. Glossary 545 D. References 556 Index 558 xi.