Alpine Skills International Intro To Snow Climbing Aka: First The Ice Axe Instructor Lesson Plan Guidelines 1 Day 6:1 Student/Instructor Ratio Site: Donner Pass, Tioga Pass or other Instructor’s Gear 1 Rope (half or single, 30m ok) per 2-3 students 1 Double Runner 1 Cordalette (6mm x 5m) 1 Short Prussik Loop 3 Locking Screw-gate Carabiners 2 Standard Carabiners Demo options: Snow picket optional Introduction Discuss Goals and Objectives Schedule for the day Course content Instill confidence Principles of LNT Review emergency plan Personal Gear Mountain Boots Ice axe (70cm or shorter) Crampons Alpine Climbing Harness, locking carabiner Climbing Helmet (rental no charge, reservation required) Climbing Pack, water container, high-energy food) Personal Introductions Names, related experience, goals - 1 - 00510 COURSE OUTLINE Lesson 1 The Ice Axe, symbol of the alpinist Length (50cm-70cm) Purposes Advantages Disadvantages Anatomy of the ice axe The Head The Pick The Adze The Shaft The Farrel The Spike Lesson 2 Ice Axe Grips Self-belay grip Pick forward, palm on the adze Stronger, better penetration in firm snow, comfortable grip to repeat over and over Strong emphasis on self-belay climbing with good technique to avoid a fall Self-Arrest grip Situational, maybe appropriate when self-belay is not effective or with a group of novices traveling simultaneously with the rope. 2 Step Step 1: grab the shaft by the farrel Step 2: Thumb under the adze, 4 fingers over the head Lesson 3 Movement Progression Piolet canne Pied marche Feet straight forward Pied en conard Feet like a duck Pied at plat Feet flat 2-step, in balance sequence Diagonal and direct ascent In balance position Ice axe in the uphill hand, pick forward Weight on the downhill foot, uphill foot ahead (like an alpine skier) Move the axe uphill and forward while in balance 2-Step sequence Step 1: Crossover step with the downhill foot, Step 2: Then uphill foot back to balance, now move the axe Switchback changeovers From the position of balance, replace the axe (pick pointing the new direction), plunge with both hands if necessary. Kick the downhill foot, straight toe in Turn the uphill foot in the new direction using the same step - 2 - 00510 Move the downhill foot uphill and ahead to become the new position of balance, facing the new direction. Descending Technique Downhill foot becomes the lead foot for in balance position (like a telemark skier). Repeat the 2-Step Progression with this position of balance Maintain a low position with flexion in the ankles and the knees Descending Switchback changeovers From position of downhill balance, change direction of the uphill foot, move the old downhill foot uphill and back to form the new position of balance in the new direction (only two steps necessary). Other Descending Techniques Plunge step Ice axe across the torso in self-arrest position Heels penetrating each step Glissades Standing Crouching Sitting Lesson 4 Self-arrest Self-arrest practice Teach to climb to avoid falls Sitting feet down Changeover to self-arrest grip Shaft diagonally across torso Always roll in the direction of the head of the axe Head first, on stomach Head first, on back Use J-Line if runout is questionable Lesson 5 Snow belays and anchors Introduction to the rope Lengths and diameters Strengths and characteristics Simple tie-in system, just a bowline or fisherman’s around the waist, (limited application, emergency use only). Harness tie-in with figure 8 Braced belays Sitting hip belays (braced belays) Ice axe/carabiner belay (Stand on top of head redirect through carabiner - use Münter off the harness) Need to teach Münter Anchored belays T-slot ice axe Girth hitch double runner - 3 - 00510 Lesson 6 Roped Team Travel Practice snow arrest as a rope team Practice ascending and descending as a rope team of two or three Group arrest of a fall Lesson 7 Crampons Introduction to French Technique Pied a plat, piolet canne (like a cane) Piolet ramasse (across the upper body) Piolet anchre (swing pick into ice) Descending 2-step in balance Lesson 8 Optional Additional Demos (situational) Body rappel from a snow bollard Rappel anchor retrieval using two ice axes - 4 - 00510 .