A JOURNAL STEPPING OUT OF THE RAILWAY TRACKS A journey on foot, cross country from Lands End at the end of England to John o’Groats at the top of Scotland 1st April to 27th June 1998 88 days i THE PLANNING The planning stage of this journey encompassed a period of 12 months. Fitness We set ourselves a fitness program to increase both our strength and endurance. We have always been regular weekend walkers but now we had to get serious. Initially we walked for one hour every night. Where we live is very hilly and this served us well. After three months we planned regular full day Sunday walks through Sydney’s national parks, other suburbs and city streets. The rugged terrain in the National Parks increased our stamina and built our strength. The variety of a full day’s walking in other suburbs and in the city added interest to our task. During all these walks Philip used a map and compass for practice and to increase familiarity. One day we decided to walk from our home in Illawong to visit friends in Lilyfield. This journey would normally take about an hour in the car. They were most surprised when we arrived on foot! Six months before our departure we started wearing our boots for all our walking and doubled the length of our nightly walk. Three months before leaving we started wearing our backpacks and gradually over that 12 week period we increased the weight until one month before leaving we carried a full backpack. Due to work commitments we managed only one overnight camping trip to test our tent. Our destination was down a steep and rocky hill to a picturesque and secluded sandy beach shaded beneath towering cliffs in the Royal National Park. We had booked our tent space and as we put our tent up atop a rise overlooking the beach we noted with some satisfaction that there were only a couple of other tents, one of them large, placed further down on a grassy level piece of land directly behind the beach. The occupants were not to be seen. Our first clue came when a young man arrived and erected a tent next to ours, went into it and emerged stark naked. He was friendly and chatty for a few moments then drifted off down to the sea. At dusk ii small groups of naked men emerged from the rocks at either end of the beach and trudged back to their tent. WHOOPS, a gay beach? It was rather disconcerting but I tried not to look even when the men paraded up and down the beach wearing only short jackets to warm them in the fading light and shadowy cool of the evening. Luckily there was a breeze to keep the mozzies away. Still all our equipment worked well and I even kept a straight face when one friendly soul stopped to chat to me whilst I was perched on a rock eating my sausage and eggs for breakfast. He eyed my sausage and took great delight in standing directly in front of me with his groin at my eye level so when I raised my eyes to return his conversation, my sight had to cast over his penis. Equipment We spent many hours researching our equipment on the Internet and visited every outdoor shop in the city centre of Sydney. As we had to carry everything the weight was very important. We listed all the items we would need and found the lightest and best of each. We bought OS maps over the Internet http://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/oswebsite/ and spent many a happy night mapping out our route with a yellow highlighter. We bundled our maps and guidebooks into parcels to post to Post Offices along our route, when we arrived in England. Some guidebooks we bought along the way. This planning and preparation paid off as we had no trouble with our gear and neither of us had to endure a single blister in the entire journey. Quite an achievement, judging from the experiences of others. Although we felt some discomfort during the first couple of weeks of walking, it soon disappeared and although weary at day’s end, we were able to enjoy every day. If you have the will and can find the time then this journey is recommended. It was such a wonder. These were precious days. iii John O’Groats Land’s End iv THE ESSENTIALS v Outfit and equipment: . Boots - we chose Scarpa leather boots. They are sturdy, reasonably lightweight, give protection for the ankles, quite waterproof and will last for many years. They are not cheap but our choice was justified in that we are both still wearing the same pair of boots that we wore for this journey. We Snow-sealed our boots before leaving. If boots get wet, as they invariably will, then stuff them with dry newspaper overnight. This will absorb the dampness. If crossing a stream or river, always keep your boots on to avoid slipping and change your socks on the other side. Socks – three pairs each. These need to be changed regularly. Good thick socks from an outdoor shop will protect your feet and give comfort. Always change wet socks straight away and never walk in them. Gortex jacket. Expensive but worth every cent. Breathable and completely water proof and wind proof. One pair of lightweight, comfortable, fast drying trousers. If they are slim fitting then they need stretch. One pair of shorts. These should be slightly loose and comfortable. One pair of thermal leggings. (These can be worn under trousers or with shorts if necessary) . One thermal underwear long-sleeved top . Two t-shirts each . One long sleeved t-shirt for me and a long sleeved shirt for Philip. These can be bought in an outdoor shop made of a fabric that is light, warm and breathable. Long sleeved fleece top with zip at top front from an outdoor shop. 5 pairs undies each . 2 bras (me) . One red silk short nightie (for me – just so I remember that I am a girl) . Warm beanie and fabric sun hat . Gloves (I didn’t take these but had to buy them along the way as my hands became swollen and red with the cold) . Scarf . Waterproof over-trousers – Gortex would be best as breathable. We wished we had bought Gortex. Gortex gaiters – for those times (which were frequent) that you need to walk through slush and mud . Telescopic hiking stick – this protects the knees and gives stability on steep ascents and descents. We climbed over hundreds and hundreds of stiles. A hiking stick reduces the stress on the knees by 30% and is a great aid up and down (most particularly down) steep, often slippery with mud, hills. Remember that extra weight on your back is extra strain on the knees. 70 litre backpack (We bought Macpac from New Zealand as they suited our body types the best and are adjustable) . Large heavy duty plastic bag to line back pack (from outdoor shops). If you don’t have this then the things you are carrying in your back pack will get wet. Selection of nylon drawstring “sacks” to separate items in backpack. We used the sack with our clothes in it for a pillow. Self inflating mattress from outdoor shop . Goose down sleeping bag. Expensive, but light and warm. Lightweight tent for two with annexe for backpacks. It should be weatherproof and be able to withstand strong winds. Trianga stove (uses methylated spirits and contains cooking pot and pan). We kept our stove in a special waterproof drawstring bag we purchased from an outdoor shop. Fuel bottle for methylated spirits – 1 litre . Waterproof matches or lighter 1 . Ground sheet for tent . Second smaller groundsheet for sitting on to eat or relax . pen knife . small torch . whistle (to blow if you need help) . small plastic spatula for burying your faeces in the countryside . 2 x plastic plates . 2 x plastic bowls . 2 x plastic mugs . 2 x plastic cutlery sets . small to medium lightweight containers (from outdoor shop) to store coffee, teabags, sugar, powdered milk, butter, eggs etc. zip top plastic bags to keep other food items in (All food kept in separate drawstring waterproof bag from outdoor shop) . Small plastic spatula and spoon for cooking . 1 water bottle each (1 litre metal from outdoor shop) . Waterproof map case which Philip wore around his neck . Good compass and the knowledge to use it competently . Sewing kit . Maps and guidebooks. The maps we posted in bundles to Post Offices en route for collection. The used maps we posted to a friend in the UK. We bought guidebooks for long distance paths as we journeyed. These were readily available in the town at the beginning of each path. Journey plan – we carried a detailed journey plan so we knew where to go and what we needed to do when we got there. Pen and notebook (for the writing of this Journal). Each filled notebook was posted and then a new one purchased. Electronic organiser contained addresses and useful information. Also for recording expenses (budgeting) and making notes. Credit card (with cash deposited on to it to cover the entire journey) for cash withdrawals. We always carried enough money, shared between us, for several days. Small light fabric shoulder bag (for me) for carrying money and cards when not shouldering back pack. Telstra phone home card for ringing family in Australia from public phone boxes. We did not want to carry a mobile phone and charger but this is of course a personal choice.