city guide Seoul Searching A whirlpool of pungent street foods, kaleidoscopic neon lights and eclectic boutiques awaits in Asia’s heart and soul Banpo fountain 98 F&T words NELLIE huaNg images KorEa TourIsm organisatioN & Nellie huaNg eoul — jam-packed with FAB EATS plundering skyscrapers, brightly Korea’s gastronomy scene takes centre lights, while live seafood wriggle with lit neon signs and an explosive stage in Seoul, keeping true to traditional vigour before being washed down hungry culinary scene — is truly a city local flavours, be it in modern Michelin- revellers’ stomachs. Sample raw oysters Sof epic proportions. With a population starred restaurants or back-to-basics drenched in a rich, spicy pepper paste, of over 10 million people, the dynamic street-side food carts. mixed with kalguksu (knife-cut noodles) South Korean capital is after all one of the Chowhounds will surely be aroused by and flush them down with a bottle of largest cities in the world. For decades, it the vivacious street food culture in Seoul. soju, Korea’s firewater boasting 30 percent has been coyly hiding behind the shadow Ubiquitous food carts around the city alcohol. Grazing is the best strategy of its neighbouring brother, Tokyo. Today, serve up typical local snacks like odeng, and arriving with an empty stomach is Seoul has come into its own, emerging as boiled fish rolls that resemble intestines, a must. the latest Asian powerhouse. and tteokbokki, rice cakes dipped in a Jung-gu, Namchang-dong 49 For the uninitiated, Seoul is a sensory sweet spicy sauce. overload: its gastronomy, culture and Nothing says Korean more than HancooK architecture evoke expressions of the traditional tatami-style barbecue The Korean BBQ is a quintessential superlative magnitudes. The most restaurants, where guests get first-hand culinary experience: grilling your own colourful street food scene, the oldest experience in grilling red, fresh meat. meat and pairing that with a myriad of temple and the raunchiest red-light An interesting feature of a Korean meal side dishes. Besides being lauded as one district — it’s all here in Seoul. Amidst its involves a series of gaudy side dishes that of the best traditional Korean fine dining futuristic buildings stand ancient palaces serve to complement the main platter. restaurants in Seoul, Hancook offers one and pine-fringed park, and tucked Hungry? Here are some essential places of the best panoramic views of the city between massive malls are sprawling to dig into authentic Korean fare. atop the N’Seoul Tower. Try the modum night markets. Within 10 steps into gui (grilled beef), tong galbisal (ribs) Seoul’s frenzied streets, I am seduced by Namdaemun MArket and the naengmyeon (cold buckwheat its diverse undercurrents. A labyrinth of old-style street stalls, noodles). Although slightly pricey, lunch As the epicentre of the country, it is Namdaemun Market is South Korea’s set menus (22,000KrW/US$19 for adults bursting with all that the region has to biggest and oldest open-concept bazaar. and 9,900KrW/US$8.70 for children) give offer. An old Korean saying goes, “Even For a first taste of Seoul’s street fare, you the best bang for your buck. if you have to crawl on your knees, get nothing usurps Namdaemun. Here, raw Yongsan-gu, Yongsandong 2-ga. yourself to Seoul!” red meat glow under the bright neon www.nseoultower.net Clockwise from left: Street food from Namdaemun market; Seafood; Traditional side dishes; Hancook barcecue; Street vendors from Namdaemun market F&T 99 city guide BaeknyEoN Tojong Samgyetang In the last years, the Korean chicken ginseng soup, or samgyetang, trend has swept across Singapore. This specialty restaurant dubbed as Seoul’s best restaurant for samgyetang only serves genuine flavours. Charmingly simple and basic, the restaurant features floor-seating and traditional wooden furnishing, giving plenty of authenticity. In addition to the samgyetang, sample the kimchi jiggae, a rich, savoury kimchi stew that packs a punch. A pot of stew for two costs 12,000KrW/US$10. Seogyo-dong 354-12, Mapo-gu. Tel: 82/2-335-6688 BoN Juk If Seoul were to be a dish, it would be bibimbap. An outrageously flavourful mixture of rice with seasonal vegetables, a fried egg and thick chilli pepper paste, it is one of Korea’s national dishes. For some of the best bibimbap in Seoul, head to the international restaurant chain, Bon juk. The restaurant’s specialty lies in porridges, or juk. The myriad of congee on its menu is impressive: ranging from sweet pumpkin to oyster flavour. The menu is in English and Korean and prices are under 10,000KrW/US$9. Bon juk has also recently opened up new chains in Singapore and Malaysia. Apgujeongno Gangnam-gu. Tel: 82/2-514-6233 Clockwise from left: Chicken ginseng soup; Kimchi stew; Bon Juk’s bibimbap; A night of shopping in Seoul; Mall in Dondaemun Market; A scene of Insa-Dong; Hongdae Free Market; Chancery / Vulcan Lane Interior of Baeknyeon Tojong Samgyetang 100 F&T city guide SHOPPING CoEX MAll Hongdae Free MArket From high-fashion Imagine over 85,000 sqm of retail therapy. A new urban movement for art expression shopping boulevards Asia’s largest underground shopping mall is taking to the streets of Seoul. The to charismatic indie stretches across the Gangnam district Hongdae Free Market is not a flea boutiques, shopping in in Southern Seoul. Catering to the new market — instead of second-hand goods, Seoul is a hedonistic urban shopper, the complex is home to the products on sale here are eclectic, affair. Whether you’re over hundreds of international brand creative, handcrafted artwork. It is a hunting for vintage names the likes of Zara, and also houses playground for young, talented artists goods, unusual souvenirs or the trendiest a 16-screen multi-cinema complex, a who need a platform for free expression. fashion, the multitude of products on massive marine aquarium and a kimchi Mingle with local talents and scour offer is astounding. What’s best: prices museum. Beware: you might just not be through quirky knickknacks, handmade in Seoul are reasonably affordable and able to find your way out! jewellery, leather pouches and artistic bargain buys abound. World Trade Centre Samseong-dong, porcelain. For those with an eye for the Gangnam-gu; www.coex.co.kr unconventional, you’ll surely sniff out dongdaemun MArket some valuable art pieces here. The free If you can only fit one shopping stop Insa-dong market is held from 1pm to 4pm every into your packed itinerary, make it the For a peek into Seoul’s past, weave Saturday from March to November. dongdaemun Market. A jumble of massive through the atmospheric streets of Hongik University. Tel: 82/2-325-8553; shopping complexes mashed within a Insa-dong laden with antique stores, www.freemarket.or.kr warren of fashion alleys, dongdaemun is art galleries, Buddhist shops and a one-stop shopping district fit for people teahouses. It exemplifies a traditional of all ages. Multi-storey fashion malls like Korean lifestyle and is a treasure trove Migliore and doota are packed wall-to- of antiques (particularly those from the wall, crammed with the latest in fashion, Chosun dynasty), original calligraphy as well as electronics and lifestyle work, paintings and artefacts. you’ll also products. These malls stay opened until find several Buddhist temples and stores the wee hours of the morning for those tucked away in the quiet alleys in who need to do a last-minute dash. this area. Jogno, Cheongyejenon-no Jongno-gu. Insa-dong, Jongno-gu. Tel: 82/2-732-2240 Tel: 82/2-261-2192 F&T 101 city guide Gyeongbuk Palace 102 F&T city guide ATTRACTIONS N’SEoUl Tower dragoN HAll Spa For those with just a few days to spare, Perched on the peak of Mount Namsan like japan’s obsession with the onsen, Seoul provides a palatable feast: time- in downtown Seoul is the flashy N’Seoul Koreans are addicted to jimjibang, a enduring palaces, temples and emerald Tower. Splashed with a modern look traditional bath practice. dragon Hill parks. From essential tourist stops to and feel, the tower was given a complete Spa is a glorified jimjibang designed off-the-radar secret gems, here’s our pick overhaul in 2005 and now boasts several to suit the needs of young urban of attractions that make Seoul stand out stylish restaurants (including a revolving Seoulites. reminiscent of an all-rounded from the rest. restaurant) and boutiques offering the entertainment centre, the seven-storey best panorama in town. If snapping establishment comes complete with GyEongbuk PAlace shimmering night shots from the highest in-house restaurants, cinemas and an Top on the list of most visitors’ itinerary point of a city is your thing, then make Internet cafe. The traditional bath area is the legendary Gyeongbuk Palace. As sure you visit. The view from the T3 offers an assortment of treatments the largest palace built during the joseon observation deck is worth the entrance from the popular perspiration rooms dynasty, the Gyeongbukgung’s grandeur fee (8000KrW/US$7 per adult and and conventional charcoal-fuelled is comparable to the greatest palaces in 4000KrW/US$3.50 per child). The easiest saunas to pyramidal-shaped baths and the world. Gyeongbukgung translates and most picturesque route to N’Seoul mineral crystal rooms. What’s more, the to mean ”Palace of Shining Happiness”; Tower is taking a taxi from Insa-dong to entertainment complex is open round it’s no wonder the iridescent frescos and the Namsan cable car. From the cable car, the clock and an entry ticket (10,000KrW/ lavish carvings are blanketed in such it’s a short walk to the base of the tower.