THE JUMPSUIT PATTERN with shirt, shirt dress, and jumpsuit variations For use with Alabama Stitch Book, Alabama Studio Style, Alabama Studio Sewing + Design, Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns, and The Geometry of Hand-Sewing theschoolofmaking.alabamachanin.com © The School of Making™ 2019 ABOUT THIS PATTERN LENGTH VARIATIONS The Jumpsuit pattern, designed to be used in tandem with The School of Making Book Series, is created with a utilitarian design in mind. This garment is included in three variations: shirt, shirt dress, and jumpsuit. The jumpsuit has a fitted bust, snap-up placket, drawstring waistline, and a ABOUT THIS PATTERN VARIATIONS flowingThe wide Jumpsuit leg. The pattern, shirt designeddress variation to be used is a in mid-lengthtandem fashion,with and The the School shirt isof Makinga functional, Book Series,comfortable is created snap-up with style witha utilitarian a collar. design The jumpsuitin mind. This measures garment approximatelyis included in 60” withthree an variations:inseam of shirt,approximately shirt dress, 30”, and thejumpsuit. shirt dressThe jumpsuit has a fitted bust, snap-up placket, drawstring 24” measureswaistline, approximately and a flowing 45”, wideand leg.the Theshirt shirt measures dress approximatelyvariation 24”. is a mid-length fashion, and the shirt is a functional, comfortable snap-up style with a collar. The jumpsuit measures approximately 60” with an inseam 24” of approximately 30”, the shirt dress measures PATTERNapproximately SIZING 45”, and the shirt measures approximately 24”. XS S M L XL XXL PATTERN SIZING Chest 28 – 30” 30 – 32” 32 – 34” 36 – 38” 40 – 42” 44 – 46” 45” XS S M L XL XXL Waist 23Chest – 24”28 –25 30” – 26”30 – 32”27 – 3228” – 34”30 36– 32” – 38” 3340 – – 35”42” 4435 – – 46” 36” Hips 32Waist – 33”23 –34 24” – 35”25 – 26”36 – 2737” – 28”38 30– 39” – 32” 4033 – – 42”35” 3543 – – 36” 44” Hips 32 – 33” 34 – 35” 36 – 37” 38 – 39” 40 – 42” 43 – 44” 45” APPROXIMATE YARDAGE REQUIRED APPROXIMATE YARDAGE REQUIRED VARIATION SINGLE LAYER DOUBLE LAYER VARIATION SINGLE LAYER DOUBLE LAYER Shirt 1.5 yards 3 yards Shirt 1.5 yards 3 yards Shirt Dress 2.5 yards 5 yards 60” Shirt DressJumpsuit 2.5 yards3 yards 5 6 yards *Yardage measurement taken with fabric folded with the grainline. Jumpsuit*Yardage measurements are for short3 yards sleeve variations. Add an additional6 yards 1/4 yard per layer for a long sleeve variation of the shirt and shirt dress and an additional 1/2 yard per layer for a long sleeve jumpsuit. *Yardage measurement taken with fabric folded with the grainline. *Yardage measurementsTO NOTE BEFO areR forE shortBEGI sleeveNNING variations. Add an additional 1/4 yard per layerAll fabric for a longshould sleeve be pre-washed, variation of the dried, shirt and and wrinkleshirt dress free and an addi- tional 1/2 yardSeam per allowance layer for ais long1/4” sleeveunless jumpsuit otherwise noted 60” TO NOTE BEFORE BEGINNING All fabric should be pre-washed, dried, and wrinkle free. Seam allowance is 1/4” unless otherwise noted. theschoolofmaking.alabamachanin.com theschoolofmaking facebook.com/theschoolofmaking 2 THE JUMPSUIT CUTTING GUIDE In lieu of Master Pattern Long Sleeve Jumpsuit Short Sleeve Jumpsuit FOLD FOLD SELVEDGE SELVEDGE 3 THE SHIRT DRESS CUTTING GUIDE In lieu of Master Pattern Long Sleeve Shirt Dress Short Sleeve Shirt Dress FOLD FOLD SELVEDGE SELVEDGE 4 THE SHORT JUMPSUIT CUTTING GUIDE In lieu of Master Pattern Long Sleeve Jumpsuit Short Sleeve Jumpsuit FOLD FOLD SELVEDGE SELVEDGE 5 THE SHIRT CUTTING GUIDE In lieu of Master Pattern THE JUMPSUIT PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS Long Sleeve Shirt SUPPLIES The Jumpsuit Pattern 60”-wide cotton jersey fabric in one color, for top layer (see chart on page 2 for yardage) Optional - 60”-wide cotton jersey fabric in one color, for backing layer Paper scissors Tape Garment scissors Tailor’s chalk or disappearing-ink fabric pen Hand-sewing needle Button Craft thread All-purpose thread (for basting) Pins FOLD #7 Snaps (8 for jumpsuit, 11 for shirt dress, 7 for shirt) SELVEDGE 1. CUT THE PATTERN This garment provides three style variations (The Jumpsuit, The Shirt Dress, The Shirt), five sleeve variations (short without a cuff, three- quarter with or without a cuff, long with or without a cuff), two length variations (short or pant) and six sizes (from XS to XXL). Sleeve options with cuffs may be better suited for more experienced sewers. You may also choose to add patch Short Sleeve Shirt pockets with our separate pocket pattern. Once you’ve chosen your pattern variation and size, use your paper scissors to cut out the desired pattern variation. Cut as close to the black line as possible. 2. CUT TOP-LAYER PATTERN PIECES To prevent the cotton jersey from stretching, lay the fabric flat on your work surface, fold to create two layers, and gently pat the cotton jersey into place with your fingertips. FOLD Find your grain line by locating the vertical lines SELVEDGE that run along the length of the fabric’s right side. Next, lay your paper pattern pieces on top of your fabric, making sure the pattern’s marked grain line runs in the same direction as the fabric’s grain line. Trace your pattern pieces with tailor’s chalk or a disappearing-ink fabric pen. You may hold or weight the pattern 6 instead of pinning to prevent skewing the fabric The Shirt Dress or causing small nicks and holes in your pattern Center Front 2 2 and fabric. Cut just inside of your traced line to Side Front 2 2 remove it entirely. Yoke 2 1 Center Back 1 1 See the chart below to organize your total Side Back 2 2 number of pattern pieces, top-layer pieces, Sleeve 2 2 Center Front Skirt 2 2 and backing-layer pieces for double layered Side Front Skirt 2 2 garments. Back Skirt 1 1 Collar Stand 2 0 # pattern Total # cut Total # cut Total # cut Collar 2 1 pieces top-layer back- Pieces for pieces ing-layer a dou- Placket Facing 2 0 (see details pieces ble-layer Waistband Casing 2 2 below) (see details garment below) Drawstring 1 0 Side Seam Pocket Bag 2 0 The Jumpsuit - 17 32 21 53 (Optional) cuffed sleeve Sleeve Cuff (Optional) 2 2 The Shirt Dress - 17 31 20 51 cuffed sleeve Sleeve Placket (Optional) 2 0 The Shirt - cuffed 11 21 13 34 sleeve The Shirt The Jumpsuit - no 15 28 19 47 Center Front 2 2 cuff Side Front 2 2 The Shirt Dress - 15 27 18 45 no cuff Yoke 2 1 The Shirt - no cuff 9 17 11 28 Center Back 1 1 Side Back 2 2 Sleeve 2 2 Pattern Pieces Unembellished cut Backing Layer add Collar Stand 2 0 The Jumpsuit Collar 2 1 Center Front 2 2 Placket Facing 2 0 Side Front 2 2 Sleeve Cuff (Optional) 2 2 Yoke 2 1 Sleeve Placket (Optional) 2 0 Center Back 1 1 Side Back 2 2 Sleeve 2 2 3. CUT BACKING-LAYER PATTERN PIECES Center Front Leg 2 2 Lay out the backing-layer fabric flat, fold to Side Front Leg 2 2 create two layers, and gently pat the cotton Back Leg 2 2 jersey into place with your fingertips. Repeat Collar Stand 2 0 the process in Step 2 to cut 21 backing-layer Collar 2 1 pieces for The Jumpsuit, 20 pieces for The Shirt Placket Facing 2 0 Dress, and 13 for The Shirt if you have chosen Waistband Casing 2 2 a sleeve with cuffs. Use your cut front and back Drawstring 1 0 top-layer pieces as pattern guides, excluding Side Seam Pocket Bag 2 0 (Optional) one collar, collar stands, pocket bags, placket Sleeve Cuff (Optional) 2 2 facings, sleeve plackets, drawstring, and one Sleeve Placket (Optional) 2 0 yoke. See the chart above to organize your total number of cut backing-layer pieces. 7 4. BASTE NECKLINE AND ARMHOLES in the middle of each set of pins until your seam To ensure that the neckline and armholes don’t is securely pinned and ready to sew. stretch while you are constructing your garment, use a single strand of all-purpose thread to Unless otherwise noted, all of our garment baste around the neckline and curved edges of patterns use a 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance. each piece. 7. STITCH CENTER AND SIDE FRONT SEAMS 5. ADD STENCILING AND/OR EMBROIDERY See page 19 of this document for basic sewing (OPTIONAL) instructions or reference our Alabama Studio If you choose to stencil and/or embroider your Book Series for more in-depth instruction. project, add your design to the right side of the cut top-layer pieces, and let stenciled images With right sides together and raw edges aligned dry thoroughly. You may choose to stencil one (or wrong sides together if you have chosen layer of your collar. At The School of Making, we outside seams), pin one center and one side generally do not stencil our pocket bags, as they front piece together, matching notches. Thread are hidden on the inside of the garment; however, your needle, love your thread, and knot off. you may choose to stencil both layers, creating a Using a straight stitch and stitching 1/4” (6mm) patterned pocket bag. from the fabric’s cut edges, sew the center front and side front pieces together starting at the Add embellishment as desired using our neckline and working towards the bottom of the Alabama Studio Book Series for inspiration. If garment, checking your thread tension as you you are adding beads, avoid beading in the 1/4” work.