NEW VALUE OF LOCAL MATERIAL “ERI SILK”: ARTISTIC EXPRESSION IN TEXTILE ART AND CRAFT By Miss Supawinee CHARUNGKIATTIKUL A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for Doctor of Philosophy DESIGN ARTS (INTERNATIONAL PROGRAM) Graduate School, Silpakorn University Academic Year 2020 Copyright of Graduate School, Silpakorn University NEW VALUE OF LOCAL MATERIAL “ERI SILK”: ARTISTIC EXPRESSION IN TEXTILE ART AND CRAFT โดย MissSupawinee Charungkiattikul วิทยานิพนธ์นี้เป็นส่วนหนึ่งของการศึกษาตามหลักสูตรปรัชญาดุษฎีบัณฑิต สาขาวิชาศิลปะการออกแบบ แบบ 1.1 ปรัชญาดุษฎีบัณฑิต(หลักสูตรนานาชาติ) บัณฑิตวิทยาลัย มหาวิทยาลัยศิลปากร ปีการศึกษา 2563 ลิขสิทธิ์ของบัณฑิตวิทยาลัย มหาวิทยาลัยศิลปากร NEW VALUE OF LOCAL MATERIAL “ERI SILK”: ARTISTIC EXPRESSION IN TEXTILE ART AND CRAFT By Miss Supawinee CHARUNGKIATTIKUL A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for Doctor of Philosophy DESIGN ARTS (INTERNATIONAL PROGRAM) Graduate School, Silpakorn University Academic Year 2020 Copyright of Graduate School, Silpakorn University Title NEW VALUE OF LOCAL MATERIAL “ERI SILK”: ARTISTIC EXPRESSION IN TEXTILE ART AND CRAFT By Supawinee CHARUNGKIATTIKUL Field of Study DESIGN ARTS (INTERNATIONAL PROGRAM) Advisor Professor Eakachat Joneurairatana Graduate School Silpakorn University in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Doctor of Philosophy Dean of graduate school (Associate Professor Jurairat Nunthanid, Ph.D.) Approved by Chair person (Assistant Professor Jirawat Vongphantuset , Ph.D.) Advisor (Professor Eakachat Joneurairatana ) Co advisor (Assistant Professor Vitawan Chunthone , Ph.D.) External Examiner (Professor Lesley Millar ) D ABST RACT 59155909 : Major DESIGN ARTS (INTERNATIONAL PROGRAM) Keyword : THAILAND, TEXTILE ART, LOCAL MATERIALS, ERI SILK, ART PRACTICE, ARTISTIC EXPRESSION AND CRAFT MISS SUPAWINEE CHARUNGKIATTIKUL : NEW VALUE OF LOCAL MATERIAL “ERI SILK”:ARTISTIC EXPRESSION IN TEXTILE ART AND CRAFT THESIS ADVISOR : PROFESSOR EAKACHAT JONEURAIRATANA Textile art is a creative field involving the making of textiles. For many years, textile art has been developed dramatically in terms of process-methods, translating ideas and creative expression. In Thailand, textile art seems to refer only to ethnic textiles, it does not include contemporary textile art practice. However, the significance of a material beyond the surface of the physical textile art object it constructs has hardly been described. Thailand still lacks knowledge on the development of local materials through artistic expression. This study undertakes to examine a material in textile art. The role of a material in textile art has remained unexpressed, and thus should be elucidated. The research recognizes the importance of “Eri silk”, a local material in Thailand. It has the unique fibrous properties that has an environmentally friendly production process and aesthetics. Eri silk has high potential to be an important material to carry on the art of Thai textile. Eri silk is a new kind of silk that can be a textile material of the future. The purpose of this research is to study traditional textile knowledge and hand making skill in contemporary art practice in order to enhance new value of local material “Eri silk” through art practice and artistic expression. To create a new perspective of textile art and craft using local material “Eri silk” through art practice and artistic expression. To propose new value of Thai local material “Eri silk” integrating aesthetic knowledge of art and craft using artistic expression in textile art and craft. The outcome of this research study is the textile art and craft carpet from local material “Eri Silk” this towards the opportunity to emphasize the meaning of the quality of natural material that exists in the community. This research is a practice-based research combined with applied research. In this research, note taking, tape recording, in-depth interviews with field experts, literature reviews, research studies, photographing applied to primarily identify the concept of “Artistic Expression in Textile Art Craft”. The result of this research is to create textile art that represents the relationship between local material “Eri silk” and artistic expression through art practice, focusing on experimental knowledge of craft processes. Technical knowledge and hands-on experience lead to a deep understanding of the art of weaving. The experiments’ results were able to merge traditional processes with the textile elements, construction and concept. This sheds light on ways of enhancing the value of local material “Eri silk” in physical realization of an artist’s idea into tangible forms of meaningful artwork. Knowledge integration, artistic ability, aesthetics, philosophy, and local wisdom based on the "Circular Economy" concept, along with the environment-oriented developmental approach of the 21st-century world, fuel the growth of the “Green economy” and support sustainable development. These ideas are the answers to the development of “Eri silk” in the future, under a broad framework of national development according to the Sufficiency Economy Philosophy. Therefore, this could become a model and reference point for other communities - those who share the same values - to contribute to the propagation of craft culture and material knowledge through textile disciplines. E ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS With the utmost gratitude, I am particularly grateful for the professional guidance and valuable support given by Professor Eakachat Joneurairatana, who is my research supervisor and also a chairman of PhD. Design Arts (International Program), Department of Decorative Arts at Silpakorn University. Special thanks should also be given to Professor Lesley Millar, Director of the International Textile Research Centre, Professor of Textile Culture, School of Crafts and Design at the University for the Creative Arts (UCA), Farnham campus, United Kingdom, for her insightful comments on this study. I would like to deeply thank my second supervisor, Assistant Professor Dr. Vitawan Chunthone, Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts, Thammasat University, for her helpful and constructive recommendations on this project and thank you Associate Professor Dr. Pairoj Jamuni, who give me knowledge about aesthetic theory of art work. I would like to express my great appreciation to the Royal Golden Jubilee Ph.D. Scholarship, the National Research Council of Thailand under the Ministry of Higher Education, Science, Research and Innovation, for the valuable research funds (Grant No. PHD/0195/2561). I wish to thank Thonglert Sornchun, for their contribution to this project, Phon Phek Natural Colour Mudmee Silk Group, Nong Ya Plong Village, Mancha Khiri district, Khon Kaen province is a community that has intellectual capital of woven Eri Silk fabric and also thanks for all local weavers in community villages in the Northeast of Thailand form Surin, Sakon Nakhon and Nakhon Ratchasima province. I would like to express my special thanks of gratitude to The Carpet Maker (Thailand) Co., Ltd. for their support and contribution toward my final project. And many thanks for Jakkai Siributr and Ploenchan Vinyaratn who both inspired me to delve into the world of contemporary Thai textile art. Finally, sincere thanks to my family and friends for valuable support and encouragement throughout my study, especially my lovely sister, Assistant Professor Dr. Suwithida Charungkiattikul, Faculty of Education, Chulalongkorn University, Thailand. Supawinee CHARUNGKIATTIKUL TABLE OF CONTENTS Page ABSTRACT .................................................................................................................. D ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .......................................................................................... E TABLE OF CONTENTS ............................................................................................... F List of Figures ................................................................................................................ I Chapter 1 INTRODUCTION AND BACKGROUND ................................................. 1 1. The Current Situation ............................................................................................ 1 2. Purpose of the Study .............................................................................................. 5 3. Hypothesis of the Research ................................................................................... 6 4. Areas of Research .................................................................................................. 6 5. Research Process ................................................................................................... 9 6. Research Methodology ........................................................................................ 11 7. Definition of Research ......................................................................................... 12 8. Research Outcome ............................................................................................... 13 Chapter 2 LITERATURE REVIEW AND RELATED STUDIES ............................ 14 1. The Cultural Context of Textiles ......................................................................... 14 1.1 What is a Textile? ........................................................................................ 16 1.2 The Art of Textile ........................................................................................ 17 1.3 Thailand’s Textile Traditions