Glossary of Wool Terms Fact Sheet No. 1.400 Livestock Series|Management by S.B. LeValley* Apparel wool: Wool suitable for Grading: The classification of fleeces Staple: Refers to the length of a lock of manufacture into apparel fabrics. according to grade and length. shorn wool; in the wool trade “staple” refers Bellies: Short and often times defective Grease wool: Wool as it is shorn from to the longer length wools within a grade. wool on the belly of sheep. the sheep, before any processing. Tender: Wool that is weak throughout Black wool: Fleeces from sheep Handle: A term referring to the actual the entire length of the fiber. containing gray, brown or black wool. feel of wool. Top: A continuous strand of Braid: Long, course, lustrous wool. Hank: A 560-yard (512 meter) unit of partially manufactured wool, which Break length: Wool that is abnormally wool yarn would on a reel. has been scoured, carded and combed weaker in one spot along the fiber Kemp: Brittle, chalky white, weak fiber an intermediate stage in the process of Breech or Britch: Coarse hair fibers on found as an impurity in the fleece. worsted yarn. lower hind leg. Lanolin: Wool grease; this substance, Vegetable matter: Any material of plant Carbonizing: Removal of burs from sometimes called “yolk” is a secretion from origin found in the fleece, such as burrs, wool by immersion in dilute sulfuric acid. the sebaceous glands of the sheep skin. stickers, chaff and seed heads. Carpet: Wools too heavy and coarse to Lock: A small, approximately finger- Woolen: A system of processing that be made into apparel; suitable for carpets sized bit of wool that tends to stay together utilizes the shorter length wools within and rugs. when shorn from the sheep. a grade. Clothing: The shorter length wools Noils: The short and sometimes Worsted: A system of processing that within a grade. defective wool fibers removed in the utilizes the longer length wools within Color: In wool trade, this refers to the combing process. a grade. actual color of the wool; a bright white to a Pelt: The skin of the sheep with wool Yield : The amount of clean wool that cream is most desirable. still attached to the skin. is derived from grease wool in the scouring Core-testing: The coring of bales or Pulled wool: Wool removed from the process; yield is expressed as a percentage. bags of wool for determination of grade, skins of slaughter sheep. yield and clean content. Range wool: Wool grown on large Crimp: The natural waviness of the ranches, distinct from wool grown on small Alpaca Fiber Terms wool fiber; it varies with the diameter of the farms; usually termed territory wool. Annualized weight: The clean fiber fiber. Raw wool: Grease wool in a natural weight from an alpaca adjusted to reflect Crossbreed: A sheep or the wool from state before scouring. the length of time between shearings to a a sheep resulting from the breeding of two Scouring: The actual separation of dirt, 12 month period. difference breeds. grease and foreign matter from grease wool; Apron: Coarse fiber forming an Felting: The matting together of this is usually done in a lukewarm, mildly overcoat around the chest of the alpaca. wool fibers. alkaline solution followed by a rinse. Architecture: General structure and lay Fleece: The wool from a single sheep in Second cuts: Short tufts of wool cut at of fibers within the locks, which go together the shorn grease state. least twice by the shearing. to make up the fleece as a whole. Fleece wool: Usually all fleeces grown Shearing: The removal of wool from Belly: Abdomen; contains the digestive in the states east of the Mississippi and the animal by use of power clippers or tract; also, fiber from the abdomen of the Missouri rivers. blade shears. alpaca (usually coarse). French combing: Wool of medium staple Shrinkage: The weight raw wool loses length, suitable for combing. when scoured, expressed as a percentage of Grade: The classification system used to the original weight. describe grease wools. The grades are; Fine Sorting: The separation of the whole – 64s, 70s, 80s; half-blood – 60s, 62s; three- fleece into parts, as well as removing the ©Colorado State University eights-blood – 56s, 58s; quarter-blood – off-sorts. Extension. 1/00. Revised 10/04. 50s, 54s; low-quarter-blood – 46s, 48s. Soundness: Freedom of the fiber from www.ext.colostate.edu breaks and tenderness; relates to strength. *Colorado State University Extension sheep and wool specialist, animal sciences. 10/2004 Blanket: Back and side of a fleece from Sound fiber: Fiber able to resist Batt or Batting: Sheets or rolls of carded the base of the neck to the base of the tail breaking either during processing or by wool or other fiber; or, mixtures thereof and sides from backbone to belly including pulling with the hands (see “tensile which is used for woolen spinning or for the haunches. strength”). stuffing, padding, quilting, and felting. Break: A weakening of fibers in the Staple: Single lock of fiber. Belly fiber: Fiber harvested from the staple, allowing them to break under strain. Staple length: The average length of belly, usually of a coarser quality. Brightness: A term used to describe the fiber in a fleece measured from the skin to Blanket: The back and side of a fleece property by which fiber reflects light. the tips of the individual fibers. from the base of the neck to the base of the Character: Relates to definition and Style: Relates to the wave and/or twist tail and the sides from the back bone to the evenness of crimp found in huacayas. The (architecture) found in suri fleece. This belly including the haunches. crimp should be even and well defined wave or twist is an indication that the fleece Break: A weakening of fibers in the from tip to butt. is not of a straight hair type. Wave and staple which will break under strain. Coarse: Fiber of large diameter. twist help give some natural elasticity to Brightness: The property by which fiber Cotted: Fleece which is matted together; the fleece. reflects light. causes processing problems. Tender: Fiber which has a distinct Britch fiber: Fiber off the lower thigh of Crinkle: Waviness/crimp in the weakness or break in it; usually the result of the rear leg of the llama. individual fiber; usually the coarser the health or stress. Brittle fiber: Long tapering dry tips fiber, the less crinkle. Tensile strength: Ability of fiber to resist usually caused by weathering. Crimp: Pronounced corrugations in the breaking either during processing or by Burry fiber: Fiber contaminated with entire fiber staple; occurs uniformly in the pulling with the hands. burrs (seeds, etc.). fibers of the staple in the same plain. Top knot: The fiber on an alpaca’s head Carpet fiber: Coarse hairy fiber. Felting: An irreversible tangling of between its ears; also called “wool cap” or Classing: Grouping of fleeces according fibers together. sometimes bonnet. to type and quality. Handle: Degree of softness of a fleece; Trueness to breed: Possessing the most Character: The characteristics of fiber generally indicates fineness. desirable characteristics of the breed, i.e., lock or fleece determined by qualitative Luster: The sheen, gloss or shine of the correct fiber type. A huacaya exhibiting evaluation of crimp, staple length and fleece and fiber, due to the reflection of light little or no crimp (plain) and little density configuration, handle or softness, off the smooth scales of each fiber. or a suri with straight plain fiber with and luster. It indicates good breeding Medullated: True hair fibers which chalkiness and no luster would be said to be and growth. contain a hollow core or medulla; often “not true to breed”. Consistency: Uniformity throughout a called guard hair, but alpaca also contains Uniformity: The degree of consistency fleece of fineness, staple length, character varying degrees of medullated or part- in a fleece from one area to another in (crimp, staple configuration, hand) medullated fiber which is not undesirable. fineness, staple length, character, color and density. Micron: A measure of fineness used and density. Coarse: Fiber of large diameter and in the fiber production industries. One Wool blind: The fiber covering on the low count. micron is one millionth of a meter; when face is so pronounced in the adult huacaya Cotted: Fiber naturally felted on fiber is tested for fineness it is expressed in that the eye cannot be seen. the animal. microns and usually is accompanied with Wool cap: The fiber on an alpaca’s head Count: Refers to Bradford Count, a “Standard deviation and co-efficient of between its ears; also called “top knot” and method of indirectly assessing fiber variation” of micron. sometimes “bonnet.” diameter. Noils: Short fibers removed during the Yield: The amount of clean fiber Coverage: The distribution of combing process. sheared from a particular alpaca; also a continuously growing fiber over the llama’s Open fleece: A type of fleece which does processing term relating to the percentage body, neck, legs and head. not hang together as a unit; usually a lighter of clean fiber after washing out the Crimp: The waviness found along the weight fleece prone to debris. natural grease and dirt and removing length of the individual fibers throughout Prickle: The quality in fleece that causes vegetable matter. the blanket. The waviness in crimp occurs itchiness when pressed against human skin. uniformly in the fibers of the lock in the Prime fiber: Best fiber the alpaca same plane. produces; usually found in the blanket, but Llama Definitions Crutchings: Fiber from the britch and can include neck and upper thigh.