Reproduction of Historic Costumes Using 3D Apparel CAD Zi Young Kang Submitted in accordance with the requirements for the degree of Doctor of philosophy The University of Leeds School of Design September, 2016 - ii - The candidate confirms that the work submitted is her own and that appropriate credit has been given where reference has been made to the work of others. This copy has been supplied on the understanding that it is copyright material and that no quotation from the thesis may be published without proper acknowledgement. © 2016 The University of Leeds and Zi Young Kang - iii - Acknowledgements I thank my mother for her dedicated support and a great encouragement to me. I would like to express my gratitude to my supervisor, Dr. Tracy Cassidy, Prof. Thomas Cassidy and Dr. Dian Li for their guidance and instruction. Special thanks to Prof. Hyeong-seok Ko and Digital Clothing Centre at Seoul National University and curators Beatrice Behlen and Timothy Long at the Museum of London for their great support, advice and help. Also many thanks to chancellor Hwa Jin Shim and all professors at Sungshin Women’s University, who have encouraged my study. I praise God, the almighty for his graciousness to allow me many great opportunities. - iv - Abstract The progress of digital technology has brought about many changes. In the world of fashion, 3D apparel CAD is attracting attention as the most promising product which reduces time and cost in the design process through virtual simulation. This study highlights the potential of its technology and tries to extend the boundaries of its practical use through the simulation of historical dresses. The aim of this study is to identify the desirable factors for digital costume development, to produce accurate reproductions of digital clothing from historical sources and to investigate the implications of developing it for online exhibitory and educational materials. In order to achieve this, this study went through following process. First, the theoretical background of the digital clothing technology, 3D apparel CAD and museum and new media was established through the review of various materials. Second, the desirable concepts for effective digital costume were drawn from the analysis of earlier digital costume projects considering the constraints of costume collections and limitations of the data on museum websites: faithful reproduction, virtual fabrication and Interactive and stereographic display. Third, design development was carried out for the embodiment of the concepts based on two costumes in the Museum of London: (1) preparation which provided foundation data with physical counterparts, (2) digital reproduction which generated digital costumes with simulations and (3) application development where simulations were embodied into a platform. Fourth, evaluation of the outcomes was carried with different groups of participants. The evaluation results indicated that the outcomes functioned as an effective information delivery method and had suitability and applicability for exhibitory and educational use. However, further improvement particularly in the faithfulness of current digital costumes and more consideration for the concerns for virtual and intangible nature were pointed out to be required. Nevertheless digital costumes were reviewed to bring notable benefits in complete or partial replacement of the relics, presentation of invisible features, release of physical constraints on appreciation and provision of integrated and comprehensive information. This study expects that use of digital costumes may assist museums in terms of preservation, documentation and exhibition of costume collections giving new possibility especially to the endangered garments lying in the dark. - v - Table of Contents Reproduction of Historic Costumes Using 3D Apparel CAD ...............................i Acknowledgements .............................................................................................. iii Abstract ................................................................................................................. iv Table of Contents ..................................................................................................v List of Tables .........................................................................................................x List of Figures ...................................................................................................... xii Chapter 1: Introduction ..................................................................................1 1.1 Motivation for Study ..................................................................................1 1.2 Background of Study .................................................................................1 1.3 Aims and Objectives..................................................................................3 Chapter 2: Digital Clothing Technology .......................................................5 2.1 Concept of Digital Clothing ........................................................................5 2.1.1 Terms ............................................................................................6 2.1.2 Definition and Qualities of Digital Clothing .....................................9 2.2 Virtual Clothing Generation Techniques .................................................. 11 2.2.1 Modelling ..................................................................................... 11 2.2.2 Sculpting ...................................................................................... 12 2.2.3 3D Scanning ................................................................................ 12 2.2.4 Cloth Simulation .......................................................................... 13 2.2.4 3D Apparel CAD .......................................................................... 14 2.2.5 Technical Consideration for Exhibitory and Educational Digital Costume ...................................................................................... 15 2.3 Applications of Virtual Clothing ................................................................ 16 2.3.1 Clothing Sector ............................................................................ 17 2.3.1.1 CAD/CAM Applications .................................................... 17 2.3.1.2 Digital Runway ................................................................. 18 2.3.1.3 Virtual Fitting and Mass Customisation ............................ 19 2.3.2 Film and Animation Industry ........................................................ 20 2.3.3 Game and Social Network Service .............................................. 22 2.3.4 Summary ..................................................................................... 23 2.4 Summary ................................................................................................. 25 - vi - Chapter 3: 3D Apparel CAD ......................................................................... 27 3.1 Fashion and Technology ......................................................................... 27 3.2 Fashion and CAD .................................................................................... 28 3.3 Introduction of 3D Apparel CAD .............................................................. 29 3.4 Concept of 3D Apparel CAD .................................................................... 29 3.5 Development of 3D Apparel CAD ............................................................ 32 3.5.1 Historical development ................................................................ 32 3.5.2 A Review of 3D Apparel CAD Systems ........................................ 33 3.6 Commercial CAD Systems ...................................................................... 41 3.7 Design Development Process with 3D Apparel CAD ............................... 44 3.8 Application of 3D Apparel CAD for Costume Reproduction ..................... 47 3.9 Summary ................................................................................................. 48 Chapter 4: Museum and New Media ........................................................... 51 4.1 Costume Museum ................................................................................... 51 4.1.1 Museum....................................................................................... 51 4.1.2 Costume Collection ..................................................................... 51 4.1.3 Practical Problems of Exposure of Costume ................................ 53 4.1.3.1 Constraints on Costumes from a Perspective of Museums ............................................................................ 53 4.1.3.2 Difficulties of Exploration of Costumes from a Perspective of Students ...................................................... 54 4.2 Museum and New Media ......................................................................... 56 4.2.1 Development of New Media ......................................................... 56 4.2.2 Shift in Museums ......................................................................... 57 4.2.3 Advantages of New Media ........................................................... 58 4.3 Costume Curation with New Media ......................................................... 59 4.3.1 Museum Website and Virtual Museum ........................................ 59 4.3.2 Observation of Costume and Fashion Museum Websites ............ 60 4.3.2.1 Findings ..........................................................................