OCCASION This publication has been made available to the public on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the United Nations Industrial Development Organisation. DISCLAIMER This document has been produced without formal United Nations editing. The designations employed and the presentation of the material in this document do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Secretariat of the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries, or its economic system or degree of development. Designations such as “developed”, “industrialized” and “developing” are intended for statistical convenience and do not necessarily express a judgment about the stage reached by a particular country or area in the development process. Mention of firm names or commercial products does not constitute an endorsement by UNIDO. FAIR USE POLICY Any part of this publication may be quoted and referenced for educational and research purposes without additional permission from UNIDO. However, those who make use of quoting and referencing this publication are requested to follow the Fair Use Policy of giving due credit to UNIDO. CONTACT Please contact [email protected] for further information concerning UNIDO publications. For more information about UNIDO, please visit us at www.unido.org UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION Vienna International Centre, P.O. Box 300, 1400 Vienna, Austria Tel: (+43-1) 26026-0 · www.unido.org · [email protected] v. v. t«»l< Jt-caat #•* .M ^OZHOf i>i. .. i r-.r .'••; T ì) /v; ; . ' 'nit-- ••:-: Development Organization .,,,••.',- -v. -i^i-ilii.y U'ti, - ' - " ...'a", tr-. ^'•/Klf, 3Z/y 4-y ,tfi •fe'.'AI.I-IT COKTROL IN THE FISHING OF FJTTCTrs V MADE FROM BbB'ms (IF n.vr^nv WITH MAN-MADE ,.TTO?» by Dr. P.C. Kehta a""fi'"CLd T«xtil9 Industry's Research Association Ahmedahad, India y -ITHK «¿pressed in this oapor a-.> those .v" tv -, ru. u-, v ïofloct the views of the Secretariat of ^TOC. (ic)f.-ii.n . reproduced without formal edi : j n<*. lit. ¿3 0) <L> C> ft) o> vo> 1/1 r-t rH [M H r-4 43 ,D ü) .y 1 H *a 3 - r-1 H p) d O H P ^ t k r— «) ^ * o o ;! p o o O <T> P c. 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N u ¡a .-a M o ü ta p o M N N M M 19 ^§ Sou a» l-< m H M Cl e " u 3 Cl RM fi«O ÏJ î 4 ^*J: 4 • fe ^ ë Vl%». 1 O O O I 03 O U t- If» fit -* o n ;^ ivi tí •ri -H !> •H •H M H -H -n H -ri -H •H -3 " M -H E •H ï** U} : J f ; A tosta loi- i.ì--?^!?- ' • "* -!i r i Mi tiv '-"^ • •. '>r' raro chû..v>:torir)- tics <">i r'L :•'•.;'"•:'! ! fii.i-^s f'u::'lrv: t:,'f;'- ;nnrc, Quantität Lv.' r .1.-riicril analysis of nixturos oí fibres is based r>ri :t •.•> , ly on the 'liferent coluti.1, it y characteris- tics o; fi -:c-r. r.a/.inq it possible to eiscolve out completely one of til'-» components of the fibre blenri leaving the other unaf.:eccoci. In the cuantitativo analysis of the fibre blonds, therefore, an accurately weighed representative sample of the blond fabric (or yarn) is treated vith a selected solvent for one of the components under prescribed conditions, the dissolved out component separated from the residue by filtration, washing etc, and the residue determined by accurate weighing» This procedure enables the relativa proportions of the different component fibres in a blend to be determined accurately. Table IIC gives the solvent, conditions of solution and other relevant information for the four fibre blends mentioned earlier as raost comir.only used v/ith cotton« GBWERAL: Xt is advisable to have a thorough inspection of the loom-state fabric particularly in respect of soiling and oil stains. Removal of such defects at later stages becomes difficult, if not impossible, v/ith these fabrics. Several otain rernoverb are commercially available. The stain portion is spotted v/ith the .sta-n remover, steamed v/ith a stean-rnm and finally cleaned v/ith detergent solution e: O (M coCO S CO (-l ' sO •.M C c< H' ! •• vO ••\f> •• O •• o Cl ! {"5 C* '" i ly o & V> rs ílí 1 M i-: M t-4 1-I.H M »H tH ! 1 3 1 o u <TÎ C C3 r' o M •r! <n U to c' *H O E u C» « 0- o Cu C> C -i !' G +> O -P Ci & E1 O o •H 3 O D d <N j= O 3 •P I-» uO O H H C •H 0, S cN e c '••'! ta O ft r ë2 O-H O C 3<0 C 3 0 if> 6 £ H U 3«^ JC4» C.» •-» o 3 « 4* 4» 1 •-« %A O 4J ! Ü « ^ Ö*d 6) 9 o* 1 > , +.» ^ r-) K«B*4 ¿ al o « Ì O A ol 4* > t-l e © © S M (ft s o .ß «S 4* •H «H O Iti T> U M 11 • e 4» o « 0 •H »4 IL ! ftf s IH P U •HI 0 O. > 1 I & i 3 4* •P +» •* m O o Z U 8 o 10 arri v/ater. : OLEACHIKG ,-.'W :- i;i:.i:!il.:;3: While the p:-cc^sslww of cotton-polyester blend fabrics is •essentially ?inii¿r v.o that of all-cotton fabrics, certain modificatici:' in processing conditions anri' special treatments a- r- j'.r^d to get desirable processing quality an,' f^ rie properties. The discussion here will therefore bo confi; -' to the specific changes in the cotton finishing routine which are necessary. The sequence of cp-ratlons in finishing of cotton-polyester blend fabrics will depend on the quality of the fabric and the nature of the finish required. Typical sequences are given bolov/; 1. Polyester/cotton., finished white* (a) Desize, Scour, Mercerise, Heat-set, Brush and Crop {if r.wu hinery is available), Singe, Heat- treat (anti-piliing, if required), Bleach, Apply fluorescent brightening agent, Stenter or carry out compressive shrinkage. (b) Desize, Scour, Mercerise, Bleach, Heat-set, Brush anJ Crop (if machinery is available), Singe, Heat-treat (anti-pilling, if required), Scour, Apply fluorescent brightening agent, Stentor or carry out compressive shrinkage. Sequence (b) shouli be adopted for fabric which is badly stained with oil ^ dirt, the bleaching process aiding in 11 the production of e clean fabric bo-fore heat-3ctting. — * Polyeator/cotton, piece dyed: (a) Desize, Scour, I.íercc-riso, Heat-set, Bleach (if neces&ory), Dye, 3rush and Crop (if machinery is available), Sinne, Heat-treat (nnti-pilHng, if required), Scour, Stonter or carry out compressive shrinkage. (b) Desize, Scour, Mercarlo©, Bleach, Heat-set, Dye, Brash and Crop (if necessary machinery ig available), Singe, Heat-trent (anti-pilling, if required), Stenter or carry out compressive shrinkage. Sequence (b) should be used for dirty loom state fabrics. 3. Polyester/cotton, printed i Fabrics should be processed by sequence I» the printing processes being inserted immediately prior to compressive shrinkage. Most aise mixings are combinations of the following i (a) Fil» forming »aterial — (i) Natural baset Starch» modified starches such as hydroxyethyl starch» carboxyatethyl cellulosa (C?.C), and natural gumsi (ii) Synthetic baset Acrylic polymers, polyvinyl alcohol etc. (b) Lubricants — Wax or self-emulsifying wax, tallow or water dispersible oils. 12 The objectiva of d«sizing is to remove the sizing materials as completely and uniformly as possible, A trace of residual size can usually be tolerated, but if present in lirge amounts, or if irregularly distributed, it can lead to such difficulties as (a) irregular dyeing, (b) stiff or variable hand, (c) varied response to thermosetting resin, and (d) reody appearance of blanda. Accordingly, dosizing is an important step, and should be given the attention it deserves.