Running Head: GROUP 8- PART 2 1 Part 2- Lingerie through the Decades: 1900s- 2000s Sexy Anytime, Anyplace: Lingerie over the Years Sommer Baldwin, Allison Crumback, Annie Edwards-Hurst, Shelbie Feris University of North Texas October 4, 2011 GROUP 8 –PART 2 2 Lingerie in the Early 1900’s During the 1900’s, women were regulated and had many restrictions on their lives. They discovered wearing lingerie was an outlet to their freedom. Since corsets were so popular during the early 1900’s, women started adding decorative pieces to them such as lace and silk ribbon. This trend soon became tremendously admired. Since lingerie was not visible to the public eye, women felt as if they were hiding a mysterious secret. It made them feel more powerful and helped them gain independence. The corsets were laced too tight, but allowed them to achieve an hourglass figure (Thomas, 2005). Doctors continuously discouraged women to practice corseting because it was such a high health risk. The purpose of a corset was to flatten the chest and enhance the hips (Thomas, 2005). Women wore a garment under their corsets known as a chemise, which is a white cotton undergarment. It also became a trend to insert a whalebone next to their chest to support a more structured posture (Thomas, 2005). The women of the 1900’s certainly took the old saying “beauty is pain” to a completely new level. Turn of the Teddy The first teddy was introduced in the early 1900’s. They were known as “cami-knickers” because it was a combination of camisole and knickers (Selke, 2011). It was loosely fitted and made from cotton. The teddy was not tightly fitted until the 20’s and 30’s. The aesthetics of the first teddy was basic cotton white with a few lace trimmings. The length of the teddy continued down to the thigh. Teddies were not viewed as a decorative garment but as fundamental underwear. Since underwear was known as chemise, another name for the teddy was the “envelope chemise” (Selke, 2011). A 1900’s teddy would be extremely comparable to a present day romper. Soon, corsets began to disappear and comfort was the leading trend. The vintage teddy borrowed from The Metropolitan Museum of Art (see Appendix A). Pretty in a Petticoat A petticoat was well-known to be the third layer of the undergarments. It was typically worn under a dress or to bed as a nightgown. Petticoats were frequently decorated at the bottom with lace, trimmings, or ruffles. This undergarment was designed for warmth and to offer a dress a fuller shape (Storms, 2010). Petticoats were typically white and created from either a cotton or a sheer fabric. “[Women] wore petticoats to give the illusion that they had GROUP 8 –PART 2 3 a smaller waste than they really had” (Storms, 2010). Once again, the display of the petticoat is on loan from The Costume Institute. Along Came the Corset Cover The corset cover was introduced in 1906. It was designed to conceal the chest so the corset would not be visible under the dress. This undergarment was worn during the day as well as at night for sleeping purposes. It looks extremely similar to today’s modern day tank top. The corset cover was usually made of cotton. Occasionally, the straps consisted of silk ribbon that tied on top of the shoulders. It was lightly decorated with lace and a little bit of beadwork. The bottom was drawn together with a tie around the waist. It was made this way so another article of clothing could be attached. “The lower edge is gathered under a band, to which a circular skirt may be added” (Butterick, 2011). The image of the corset cover shown below is being borrowed from The Costume Institute (see Appendix B). Down to the Drawers Drawers were underpants that women wore in the early 20th century. Today’s observation of drawers would be considered loose cotton shorts. Women usually constructed their own drawers at home, therefore, they would be custom fitted to their body. “Daintiness and perfection fit in under-garments are so desirable that many women find satisfaction easier to attain when these garments are made at home” (Butterick, 2011). The drawers were decorated very similar to the corset cover. They were made of cotton, sometimes had lace or ruffled trimmings and even had beadwork. Bows made from ribbon were occasionally attached to each side (Butterick, 2011). Drawers were also considered a bedtime piece. Loosely fitted undergarments were considered to be normal in the early 1900’s. It was not until a couple of decades later that they would be exceptionally fitted to the body. The Costume Institute was kind enough to let the drawers in the image below be borrowed for the exhibit (see Appendix C). Lingerie in the 1920’s The 1920’s were a new era of undergarments; it was out with the corset and in with loose-fitting shapeless undergarments. During this time period, the bra was evolving from something that was made at home into an actual industry (Wood, 2010). Dresses were now boxy and instead of trying to attract attention to the waist and bust with corsets, women were now raising their skirts to their knees so there was more focus on the legs instead. Women now GROUP 8 –PART 2 4 wanted the ability to move freely. Shapely curves were concealed with box-shaped fashions, and flat-chested was in style (Haug, n.d.). Women desired a manly look; they wore undergarments that flattened the chest when tightened, and the bra’s main purpose was to restrict the breasts (Haug, n.d.). There were several different options for lingerie in the 1920’s. They still had corsets but these now covered their waist and hips giving them that boyish rectangular figure that they desired, these were usually called corselets (Wood, 2010). The bandeau style bra came about in this time period, which was mainly concerned with minimizing shape (Wood, 2010). The bandeau style bra was popular because it freed the waist, and gave flappers more movement. Another undergarment item commonly worn was a camisole, which was more like a loose fitting tank top. A popular undergarment for the young flappers of the1920’s was a “step-in” chemise; it was very loose-fitting, and could be worn without being noticed under their new shorter flapper dresses (Haug, n.d.). The first piece in the display for the 1920’s era is the light pink silk/cotton “step-in” chemise. This garment is from the Costume Institute collection (see Appendix D). The second garment also from the same collection is a corselet made of rubber, silk and cotton (see Appendix E). Also from the Costume Institute collection, the third piece is a silk camisole (see Appendix F). The last piece for the 20’s is a brassiere from the same collection as the aforementioned and it was made of cotton and silk (see Appendix G). Lingerie in the 1930’s The 1930’s bras were all about uplift and separation of the breasts, there was more emphasis in this era on supporting the bosom (Wood, 2010). This decade brought a number of innovations to the bra including the introduction of four cup sizes A, B, C, D and bands 34”, 35”, 48” (Thomas, n.d.). This standardization made bras more comfortable and affordable. One famous bra that was designed in the 30’s was the Kestos bra; it was simple with seams, and could still be effective today (Thomas, n.d.). The Kestos bra featured two overlapping triangular cups shaped by small darts; it featured elastic straps and a front closure button. The Kestos bra in the 1930’s became a “must have” in every women’s wardrobe (Wood, 2010). Girdles made out of the new man- made fabric latex were popular at this time, instead of the corset to form fit women now used girdles (Thomas, n.d). Girdles were worn above the belly button and would extend down to the start of the thigh. They would usually have clasps connected to them that could hold up hose. GROUP 8 –PART 2 5 One of the bras from the 1930’s that will be featured in the collection is from the Victoria and Albert museum in London. It is made of satin net and has metal hook and eye fastenings (see Appendix H). The second piece of the 1930’s era is a bandeau-style bra made of peach-colored synthetic fabric. This brassiere is from the costume museum of Canada at the WDM museum (see Appendix I). The third piece is an actual Kestos bra from the 30’s. This bra is from Symington's Collection of Corsetry, Foundations, and Swimwear (see Appendix J). Lingerie in the 1940’s The 1940’s lingerie started turning into two separate pieces like we know today, and the upper portion was now being referred to as a “bra” (“1940’s Women’s Fashion”). Several new trends came around in this time. “A new look of the 40’s was boned girdles with waistbands and padded bras that flatten the midriff, cinch the waist, and point the breasts” (“1940’s Women’s Fashion”). Women were starting to wear what we know as the “bullet bra” in this era. Also in the 40’s, came the invention of the push-up bra. Mr. Frederick Mellinger invented the push-up bra in 1948, two years after he opened his now infamous business, Frederick’s of Hollywood (Binns, n.d.). The first piece in the 1940’s display is the light blue bra from the Victoria and Albert museum in London.