PROGRAMME 3 THE NORMAN CONQUEST OF PEMBROKESHIRE Introduction. We’re walking through Pembrokeshire and Britain’s only coastal national park to discover how a group of French-speaking warriors turned this corner of Wales into a place still known as ‘Little England beyond Wales’. Home to miles of rugged coast line, beautiful beaches and incredible wildlife, it’s a landscape and culture heavily shaped by the Normans. Unlike the knockout victory of Hastings, this conquest was a long, fiercely fought struggle. Over time the Normans turned a Welsh speaking Kingdom into an English speaking shire dominated by castles, churches and the amazing cathedral in the city of St Davids. .Walking Through History Day 1 . From St Davids, we’ll make our way along the coastal cliffs, learning about the Norman’s first meetings with the native Welsh. We’ll start by walking in the footsteps of England’s greatest warrior king – William the Conqueror. St Davids to Newgale via Pembrokeshire Coastal Path Distance: 10 miles Day 2 . Heading inland, we’re walking the rough frontier the Norman’s fought to create with the rest of Wales. We’ll trace this boundary – or Landsker Line – that formed as Normans and Flemings flooded in, past early defences at Hayscastle and Wolfcastle. Climbing Great Treffgarne Mountain gives the perfect look out over the landscape facing the invaders. Finally we head south-west, to discover how the native Welsh fought back as I reach Wiston. Newgale to Wiston via Hayscastle, Wolfcastle and Great Treffgarne Mountain Distance: 20 miles Day 3 . The River Cleddau is our guide on Day 3, as we find out how a stunning welsh princess seduced Normans, Welsh and English alike. Yesterday we learnt how the Normans invaded and conquered a huge swathe of this county. Today we will find out what they were doing on that newly won land, how they were transforming it into a place some now call Little England. Today starts with a boat trip, running down with the stream from Slebech. Back on dry land we’ll be walking the riverbanks before turning south to find the most fascinating Welsh woman of her age at Carew Castle. Wiston to Carew via the River Cleddau and Carew Castle Distance: 14 miles Day 4 . Finally, we’ll reach the southern shore, and discover the rich and unique culture of Norman Pembrokeshire. They married Welsh princesses and brought in peasants from as far afield as Flanders. Leaving Carew we return to the coast and the seaside valley of Manorbier - home of our 12th century guide, Gerald of Wales. From there we’ll walk the beaches and cliffs of the southern coast, before a celebratory drink with some Pembrokeshire locals in the Stackpole Inn. On our final day, we’ll discover the lasting culture this new cosmopolitan society created. Carew to Stackpole via Manorbier and the Stackpole Inn Distance: 12 miles Please use OS Explorer Maps OL35 and OL36 (1:25k) or OS Landranger Maps 103 and 104 (1:50k). All distances approx. 2 .Walking Through History Day 1 – Places of Interest .s St Davids to Newgale via Pembrokeshire Coastal Path Distance: 10 miles We begin our walk in St Davids, officially the smallest city in Britain. As we stroll down the High Street we’re walking in the footsteps of William the Conqueror. The world famous cathedral is set beside the River Alun just off The Pebbles at the west end of the High Street. St David’s Cathedral A monastery was founded on this site by St David in the 6th Century. William the Conqueror came here in 1081, 15 years after crushing Harold at Hastings. According to The Welsh Chronicle, he came on a pilgrimage, but he brought almost his entire army, suggesting it was also a show of strength. The pilgrimage was perhaps a cover for what was in reality a politically-motivated expedition. Rhys ap Tudor was the new and powerful ruler of South Wales and William may well have been concerned about possible Welsh renewal threatening his own barons. Construction of the present cathedral began later, in the 12th century, and while various periods are represented in the architecture, here you can see distinctly Norman columns and the arches at its core. Now the real walk starts as we head to one of the most celebrated coastal walks in Britain. Pick up the footpath heading south out of the city towards St Non’s Bay and the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path. While pushing eastwards we can’t but wonder at the beautiful scenery. Walkers, kayakers and sailors all come here to soak in this remarkable landscape. And, for wildlife lovers, it really does have a bit of everything. Look out for rare birds such as choughs, skylarks and the stonechat. Atlantic grey seals give birth on the shore, while dolphins and porpoises are playing in the waves. If you’re very lucky indeed you might catch a glimpse of basking sharks, blue sharks, orcas or turtles. 3 .Walking Through History A Journey Through Wales We’re making use of a handy guide, but not one you might expect. The Journey Through Wales and The Description of Wales by Gerald of Wales (quite a mouthful) describes the main sights and history of the region around 800 years ago. Gerald was a local. He was a priest and received a good education, in no small part thanks to being the great grandson of the Welsh King Rhys. He toured the region in the late 1100s and his books read like diaries. He notes that Welsh choirs were popular in his day ‘joining together to produce a single organic harmony and melody’. They may have been musical but this was the middle ages. ‘They’re light and agile. They are fierce rather than strong and totally dedicated to the practice of arms. Not only the leaders but the entire nation are trained in war.’ He even comments on their character, asserting that ‘The Welsh rarely keep their promises, for their minds are as fickle as their bodies are agile.’ Three miles along the cliffs we pass through the valley of Nine Elms. As we approach the golden shimmer of Newgale Sands it’s easy to appreciate what a vital geographical crossroads this was. Ireland’s just across the sea to the west, Devon and Cornwall across the water in a southerly direction, and you can see the rest of South Wales snaking away ahead of you. After 10 miles of dramatic cliffs we’re dropping down to the very sandy expanse that was the subject of one of Gerald remarkable tales. Newgale Sands: Noah’s Flood? Gerald says that in his lifetime a huge storm hit this beach and all the sand blew away, exposing a great sunken forest, which he believed had been swallowed up during the time of Noah. ‘Tree-trunks became visible, standing in the sea, with their tops lopped off... The soil was pitch black and the wood of the tree trunks shone like ebony.’ In 2013 there was another great storm here and low and behold the sand was blown away to reveal remnants of an ancient forest. Scientists have dated this wood back 10,000 years. It wasn’t Noah’s flood but rather rising seas following the last Ice Age that submerged this forest. 4 .Walking Through History Day 2 – Places of Interest .s Newgale to Wiston via Hayscastle, Wolfscastle and Great Treffgarne Mountain. Distance: 20 miles Into the county’s less visited interior our route follows the delightful Brandy Brook. Following the brook east we then swing northwards to Gignoc. Here we turn right on the road before quickly taking a footpath off the left hand side heading northeast to Hayscastle. A ‘Motte’ marked on the OS map alludes to the fact that we’re now on a rough line of fortifications, but for a clearer example we’re pushing four miles due east to Wolfscastle’s Motte and Bailey by the Western Cleddau. Invasion Twelve years after William the Conqueror’s first visit an invasion finally took place in 1093. It wasn’t a royal campaign but a privatised invasion, led by a band of ambitious barons. Whereas William I had been able to keep these nobles on a tight leash, his son, William Rufus, could contain them no longer and gave them free reign to attack Wales and claim new lands. King Rhys was determined to defend his homeland. Welsh and Normans clashed in a battle near the Brecon Beacons, but, as at Hastings, it was the invaders who triumphed. Rhys was killed, his son exiled and his daughter captured. Most of Pembrokeshire was now seized by the Normans. The next year, however, the native Welsh regrouped and fought back. Unlike at Hastings, this was going to be a long drawn out affair, with decades of guerilla warfare ahead. The Normans, therefore, set about constructing line of fortifications to protect their hard fought lands of Pembrokeshire. Wolfscastle was one such example; a power base for the lord who held it and a way of turning conquered land into a family estate. That pattern was repeated across Pembrokeshire, as Norman lords tried to stake a claim in this Wild West of Wales. Below Wolfscastle the Western Cleddau descends through a deep wooded gorge tucked in amongst the rolling hills of the surrounding countryside. Follow the path south through the gorge and use the footpath to cross over the railway and A40 over to Great Treffgarne Mountain. 5 .Walking Through History Fortifying the Frontier From the top of this craggy rock you can see Wolfscastle just to the north, and, further south Rudbaxton, Haverford West and Camrose are similar fortifications, all guarding the Western Cleddau valley.