Adventures in Paradise: Seeking the True-blue Waters august 2005 fun on the water Kayakers Quest for Glen Canyon’s Submerged Secrets TROUT FISHING TRUTHS Lake Powell Grand Canyon National Park Navajo Indian {departments} Havasu Falls Res. Little Colorado 2 DEAR EDITOR River AUGUST 2005 White Mountain 3 ALL WHO WANDER CAMP VERDE Apache Res. Our editor finds beauty on PHOENIX Painted a trackway of extinction. Bluff Tr. PORTFOLIO FOCUS ON NATURE San Carlos 32 42 4 VIEWFINDER Apache Res. Highways photographs TUCSON Chiricahua Navajo Country Sharing a House Mountains Fun Through a Son’s Eyes With a Bobcat made natural history. 5 TAKING THE OFF-RAMP POINTS OF INTEREST on the FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE Water Photographer-author LeRoy DeJolie takes readers inside When an apparently confident and well-fed wild Explore Arizona oddities, his homeland in Navajoland: A Native Son Shares His feline took up residence atop a Scottsdale home, attractions and pleasures. Legacy, recently published by Arizona Highways Books. suburbia seemed like just the place to be. 16 Kayakers Explore FOREWORD BY TONY HILLERMAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY LEROY DEJOLIE BY CHERYL A. SWEET PHOTOGRAPHS BY TOM VEZO 41 ALONG THE WAY If you gave old-time cowboy Earl Lightfoot a horse the ‘Re-emerging’ Glen Canyon and a rope, he was liable to lasso something. Several years of drought have drastically reduced HISTORY Lake Powell’s water level, allowing boaters and 38 44 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE hikers to investigate long-hidden geology. Geronimo’s Influence White Mountain Apache Reservation WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY GARY LADD Evolved From His Powers A drive across the storied lands of east-central The celebrated Apache warrior and medicine man Arizona reveals why the tribe fought to protect them. thought himself resistant to bullets — just one of 48 HIKE OF THE MONTH 8 In Search of True-blue Water his spiritual beliefs that increased his authority. The Painted Bluff Trail’s 11 miles pass through Perhaps it’s mostly a misnomer, that “blueness” BY SHARON MAGEE historic copper country in sight of Morenci Mine. we yearn for, but Arizona does have two remote locations where the river color dazzles visitors. BY RUTH RUDNER PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID MUENCH {highways on television} Arizona Highways magazine has inspired an independently produced 28 Finding Happiness weekly television series, hosted by Phoenix TV news anchor Robin Sewell. and Truth Among Trout The half-hour program can be seen in several cities in English and Spanish. For channels and show times, log on to arizonahighways.com; click on Every angler has a reason for doing his “DISCOVER ARIZONA”; then click on the “Arizona Highways goes to television!” thing, but our editor has found a blissful link on the right-hand side. purpose that goes beyond the fish. BY PETER ALESHIRE Photographic Prints Available Each month, prints of some photographs from Arizona Highways will be offered for sale as designated in captions. To order prints, call toll-free (866) 962-1191 or visit www.magazineprints.com. online arizonahighways.com This month our Web site offers extra Arizona water fun and relaxation. Go to arizonahighways.com and click on “Water Fun Guide” for: [THIS PAGE] Kayaker Emi Dickson does a preliminary paddle in • Kayak and river-rafting trips October 2003 before exploring • Hot fishing spots the side canyons of Lake Powell • Adventures in paradise: Visit Havasu Falls revealed by the increasing low- water levels of the man-made PLUS, get our regular monthly online-only features: lake. See story, page 16. n To order a print of this photograph, HUMOR Noted desert “expert” Gene Perret see information at right. shows off his knowledge at the Arizona- Sonora Desert Museum near Tucson. [FRONT COVER] A fleet of sea kayaks face the day on a ONLINE EXTRA Learn about one man's obsession slickrock shoreline near Cascade with a pioneer wagon trail in northern Arizona. Canyon on Lake Powell. WEEKEND GETAWAY Head out to Cochise [BACK COVER] A towering country for a unique bed-and-breakfast sandstone cliff reflects abstractly in the ferruginous experience in the Dragoon Mountains. sheen of a Twilight Canyon EXPERIENCE ARIZONA Plan a trip using streamlet. ALL BY GARY LADD our statewide calendar of events. {dear editor} by Peter Aleshire, editor {all who wander} [email protected] AUGUST 2005 VOL. 81, NO. 8 Publisher WIN HOLDEN Editor PETER ALESHIRE Senior Editor BETH DEVENY Missionary Zeal? First, the scorpion’s “tail” is not curled up, and Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN Research Editor LORI K. BAKER Along the Trackway of Extinction, Still We Walk in Beauty I hope future articles by Craig Childs and other the beetle is traveling in the opposite direction. Editorial Administrator CONNIE BOCH Arizona Highways contributors will not make the Also, scorpions do not eat the hard-bodied ground Administrative Assistant NIKKI KIMBEL inosaur tracks” declares the cornfields. In winter, he plucks turkeys in a mistake found in “The Displaced Hopi Murals of beetle pictured next to it. The scorpion is simply Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER “ hand-lettered sign on a dirt-road turnoff Utah factory. Awat’ovi” (February ’05). waiting for something suitable to come along, like a Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK Dfrom U.S. Route 160 on the outskirts Chee takes me up to the edge of the mesa to Mr. Childs made it clear that ancient Hopi artifacts moth, cricket or other soft-bodied insect. Scorpions Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY of the Navajo Indian Reservation. Brimming appreciate the view: south to Humphreys Deputy Art Director BILLIE JO BISHOP and architecture were integral to their beliefs, customs will also eat other scorpions. Art Assistant PAULY HELLER with love of all things saurian, I follow the Peak where the Hopi Katsinam spirits live just Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY and practices, but he did not give any information Bob Jensen, entomologist, Canoga Park, CA road to a cluster of plywood jewelry booths on a beyond the ski resort; west to the Grand about those beliefs. He separated ancient artifacts You’re right. We did take poetic license. Maybe the Arizona Highways Books great expanse of red sandstone with a relentless Canyon’s North Rim where a last fragment of old- Editor BOB ALBANO from the culture they represented. Often, modern picture just unhinged our cross-eyed caption writer. Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL wind snapping a row of growth forest sways in the wind; and east to the writers create myths for the ancient cultures they Scorpions do glow in the dark under black lights and Associate Editor PK PERKIN MCMAHON American flags. white flanks of the mesas where the Hopi people study. It seems inappropriate to romanticize and predate the dinosaurs. If you irritate them, they’ll Production Director KIM ENSENBERGER An old woman with a face hold ceremonies to perpetuate life in this, the Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON make early practices so special that they are sacred chase you across your own living room. They can bench Webmaster VICKY SNOW of seamed leather sits silently Fourth World. (even without being known) and untouchable in press French poodles. I guess they can also make Director of Sales & Marketing KELLY MERO in one of the booths with an “I would not leave again,” says Chee. “It is much modern times, even for preservation purposes. caption writers hyperventilate. air of resignation as profound better to live here. In Phoenix you have to pay, pay, Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN Monta Pooley, Bartlesville, OK as the horizon. A young man pay. If you lose your job, where do you live? What Finance Director BOB ALLEN That’s a good point. It’s easy to romanticize and so Grand Peak in a baseball cap, T-shirt and do you do? That is why we feel sorry for you,” he Fulfillment Director VALERIE J. BECKETT misunderstand other belief systems. But then, even Palm Canyon is well worth a visit, but standing worn jeans steps forward to concludes, turning back to watch the sunset. the stretch to touch the sacred in another culture, a behind it in the small photograph on page 48 of your Information Technology Manager CINDY BORMANIS greet me. Down on the distant highway, the cars hurtle painted pot or a piece of sky, can yield a glimmer of March 2005 issue (“Hike of the Month”) is a site “No charge to see the tracks past like demented beetles. FOR CUSTOMER INQUIRIES understanding — which is, finally, the real point. of memorable grandeur — Signal Peak in the Kofa OR TO ORDER BY PHONE: that are over here,” he says. But all that was years ago. National Wildlife Refuge. Call toll-free: (800) 543-5432 “Just pay whatever you want Since then I have learned that the tracks of In the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., Zane Grey Was No Nazi The peak rises 3,000 vertical feet above the Call (602) 712-2000 after you see them.” the carnivore in the sandstone were probably You have likely received bazillions of e-mails about surrounding desert floor, a jagged volcanic pinnacle Or visit us online at: He falls into step beside me, made by a prowling dilophosaurus — a 20- arizonahighways.com the swastika on Zane Grey’s chaps (“Taking the Off- blocking the way of even the most ambitious carrying a plastic water jug. foot-long meat eater with a flashy crest that For Corporate or Trade Sales: ramp,” “Zane Grey’s Monument Valley,” May ’05). You hikers who go beyond Palm Canyon into the jawlike DOLORES FIELD “I’m Morris Chee, Junior,” inspired the frilled, poison-spitting critter in the will probably want to point out to your dear readers mountain guarding it to the east.