Weaving in Stones Garments and their accessories in the mosaic art of Eretz Israel in Late Antiquity Aliza Steinberg Archaeopress Archaeology Archaeopress Publishing Ltd Summertown Pavilion 18-24 Middle Way Summertown Oxford OX2 7LG www.archaeopress.com ISBN 978-1-78969-321-8 ISBN 978-1-78969-322-5 (e-Pdf) © Aliza Steinberg and Archaeopress 2020 Translated from Hebrew to English by Debi Manor Photo arrangements by Gall Orian Cover photograph: Amazon on the ‘Nile House’ mosaic, Zippori, 5th century AD (photo credited to piki- wiki user: llan Sharif CCO 1.0) All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Printed in England by This book is available direct from Archaeopress or from our website www.archaeopress.com ‘To Shlomo, there is not a word in my tongue’, Psalms 139, 4. Contents List of figures ...............................................................................................................................................................................v Acknowledgements ...............................................................................................................................................................xvii Introduction ................................................................................................................................................................................1 Current research status .........................................................................................................................................................5 Ancient literary sources ........................................................................................................................................................5 The research literature ..........................................................................................................................................................7 Part I: Men’s clothing: the typological context of dress and costume accessories in the mosaics of Eretz Israel in Late Antiquity Chapter 1: The tunic (tunica) and its decoration ...........................................................................................................12 Introduction ..........................................................................................................................................................................12 Tunica talaris ...........................................................................................................................................................................17 Tunica manicata ......................................................................................................................................................................21 Colobium .................................................................................................................................................................................34 Dalmatica ................................................................................................................................................................................43 Tunics of indeterminatet type ...........................................................................................................................................43 Tunic embellishment ...........................................................................................................................................................44 Chapter 2: The exomis ...........................................................................................................................................................46 Chapter 3: Garments worn on the lower torso ................................................................................................................48 Skirts/kilts .............................................................................................................................................................................48 Trousers and puttees ............................................................................................................................................................49 The perizoma ...........................................................................................................................................................................55 Chapter 4: Garments made of animal skin: nebris ........................................................................................................59 Chapter 5: Overgarments ......................................................................................................................................................60 The chlamys ...........................................................................................................................................................................60 The sagum ..............................................................................................................................................................................63 The pallium .............................................................................................................................................................................64 The paludamentum .................................................................................................................................................................66 The paenula .............................................................................................................................................................................67 The cucullus ............................................................................................................................................................................67 Neck kerchiefs .......................................................................................................................................................................68 Veils ........................................................................................................................................................................................69 Decorative elements on overgarments .............................................................................................................................69 Summary ...............................................................................................................................................................................69 Part II: Men’s clothing: the iconographic context Chapter 6: Huntsmen ..............................................................................................................................................................72 Chapter 7: Soldiers ..................................................................................................................................................................86 Chapter 8: Diners and servants ..........................................................................................................................................92 Chapter 9: Laborers: pipers and shepherds, vintners, fishermen and sailors, herders, builders and horsemen ..................................................................................................................................................................................103 Pipers and shepherds .........................................................................................................................................................103 Vintners ...............................................................................................................................................................................105 Fishermen and sailors ........................................................................................................................................................108 Animal handlers ..................................................................................................................................................................111 Builders and carpenters ...................................................................................................................................................115 Horsemen ............................................................................................................................................................................116 Abraham ..............................................................................................................................................................................117 Chapter 10: Clothing worn by biblical figures in synagogue mosaics in Eretz Israel .......................................117 Samson .................................................................................................................................................................................122 i King David ..........................................................................................................................................................................124 Daniel ...................................................................................................................................................................................130 Figures in the synagogue at Huqoq ................................................................................................................................134