ROOTS OF/ROUTES TO : PRACTICE AND PERFORMANCE OF IDENTITY IN THE ISLE OF MAN Susan Lewis A Thesis Submitted for the Degree of PhD at the University of St Andrews 2004 Full metadata for this item is available in Research@StAndrews:FullText at: http://research-repository.st-andrews.ac.uk/ Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://hdl.handle.net/10023/7297 This item is protected by original copyright ROOTS OF / ROUTES TO: PRACTICE AND PERFORMANCE OF IDENTITY IN THE ISLE OF MAN When the summer day is over, and its busy cares have flown, I sit beneath the starlight, With a weary heart alone, Then rises like a vision, Sparkling bright in nature's glee, My own dear Ellan Vannin, With its green hills by the sea. Words by Eliza Craven Green. Submitted by: SUSAN LEWIS For the degree of: Ph.D. (SOCIAL ANTHROPOLOGY) Date: 23 rd JANUARY 2004 Declarations 1. I, SUSAN JANE LEWIS, hereby certify that this thesis, which is approximately 99,984 words in length, has been written by me, that it is the record of work carried out by me and that 'r J:I ·:~F'I.()r oelen;::;:SUIJmH any previous application for a higher Date: 23 rd January 2004 Signature 11. I was admitted as a research student in September 1997 and as a candidate for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in September 1998; the higher study for which this is a record was carried St Andrews between 1998 and 2004. Date: 23 rd January 2004 Signature of '-1· U.JLH"'~}.L<>d~ 111. I hereby certify that the candidate has fulfilled the conditions of the Resolution and Regulations appropriate for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the University of St Andrews and that the candidate is qualified to submit this thesis in application for t . .- . Date: 23 rd January 2004 Signature of Supervisor: ,-~~-~~~. In sUbmitting this thesis to the University of St Andrews I understand that I am giving permission for it to be made available for use in accordance with the regulations of the University Library for the time being in force, subject to any copyright vested in the work not being affected thereby. I also understand that ~ the title and abstract will be published, and that a 'Y-GrJHnay be made and supplied to any bona fide library or reJ / Date: 23 rd January 2004 Signature of ,-,,,-,~ ,,.uu.~ ,",. List of Figures Page Title Page: Green Hills by the Sea. Photograph by Sally Crumplin. Figure 1: Map of the Isle of Man. v Figure 2: The Tynwald Ceremony. VI Figure 3: Looking along the south-west coast, toward the Calf of Man. 17 Figure 4: Same route, different roots. 39 Figure 5: History of Manx Gaelic: Manx Museum display. 80 Figure 6a: Perree Bane perform during Yn Chruinnaght. 106 Figure 6b: Phynnodderee and guest playing at the Friday night session. 106 Figure 7: The heritage village of Cregneash. 132 Figure 8: 'Identity'. Part of the 'Right Here, Right Now' exhibition. 150 Figure 9: An abandoned mine above Foxdale. 199 Figure 10: The girls of Perree T dance at Tynwald. 219 Figure 11: 'Transience'. From the 'Right Here, Right Now' exhibition. 260 Figure 12: Tynwald Hill as it is seen for 364 days of the year. 274 Thanks to Dave Roche, University Reprographics Unit, for his invaluable assistance with the illustrations. Thank you also to the other (much better) photographer whose work lifts these pages. We journeyed together for a while, and it was good. Table of Contents Page PART ONE: INTRODUCTIONS 1 Chapter 1.1: RootslRoutes: Introducing a Journey 2 Raising questions 3 Understanding the present 5 Taking a step further back 7 The Tynwald Ceremony 10 A symbol that separates? 12 'For sale' 13 Chapter 1.2: In a Place in Time: Methodology and the Sharing 18 of Experience Virtual meetings 20 Preparation 23 Journey 24 Learning to belong 26 PART TWO: ROOTS 40 Chapter 2.0: Roots 41 A brief return to roots 44 Rooting around for a sense of identity 50 Chapter 2.1 : Speaking Roots 56 Symbolic language 57 It ••• making a Manxman into a Manxman" 63 Oie Gaelgagh 68 Gaelg Viol 70 Feailley Ghaelgagh 71 Meeting the problems 73 Other views 75 Chapter 2.2: Performing Roots 81 A session 82 Yn Chruinnaght 87 Ec yn oie' II verrey 94 The eisteddfod 97 The Braaid 98 Skeet 102 Chapter 2.3: Representing Roots 107 The Story of Mann 109 Mapping memories 115 Right Here, Right Now: telling it as it is 118 Writing to represent 122 Oldfor new (interactions)? 125 Discussion 127 Chapter 2.4: Roots End 133 PART THREE: ROUTES 137 Chapter 3.0: Routes 138 Sameness and difference 142 Preparing for the journey 146 Chapter 3.1 : Conscious Routes 151 The Party 153 Fynn 154 Jamys 162 Niall 167 Discussion 172 Chapter 3.2: Mundane Routes 175 Exchange one 177 Exchange two 183 Exchange three 186 Exchange four 190 Exchange five 194 Closing thoughts 196 Chapter 3.3: Classificatory Routes 200 Kieran 207 Rebecca 209 Tony 212 Coming and staying: a discussion 215 Chapter 3.4: Pragmatic Routes 220 Alice 221 Sheila 227 Two farmers 231 Discussion 236 Postscript 238 ii Chapter 3.5: Practiced Routes 240 Cara 241 Interim thoughts 249 John 252 Discussion 258 Chapter 3.6: Routes End 261 PART FOUR: CONCLUSIONS 264 APPENDIX: Census Figures 275 GLOSSARY OF MANX WORDS 278 LIST OF REFERENCES 280 iii THE ISLE OF MAN Figure 1 : Map of the Isle of Man showing the towns, large settlements al1d key features. Higher ground shown in white. Reproducedfrom The Official isle OfMan Handbook, 1999. Figure 2 . The Tynwald Ceremony, officials and guests of the Tynwald Court are seated on the Hill, while the audience observes from the grandstand and the Front Field. Photograph : Sue Lewis. Abstract This thesis takes as its ethnographic focus the Isle of Man, a British Crown Dependency. In the 1960s, the Manx government faced an economic crisis. The response was to open the Island to international banking, becoming an 'offshore' financial centre. The new industry sector has encouraged substantial immigration, to the extent that the Island-born are now in the minority. The Island now has economic success on one hand, but a new 'identity' crisis of cultural confidence on the other, raising the question 'what is it (now), to be Manx?' The Manx have always accepted incomers and are not, or ever have been, a clearly defined ethnic group. Rather 'Manxness' is an idea, a set of values, a way of relating to place and to each other. Defined thus, 'Manx identity' could be, and has been, shared with incomers. The current situation is, however, perceived as substantially different in its speed and volume, resulting in concerns that Manx culture and identity is disappearing under the weight of an alien cultural import. Reaction is demonstrated in renewed interest in the Manx Gaelic language and other 'traditiona1' pursuits, with individuals selecting routes to identification with place that satisfy personal motivations. Included in this performance of culture are members of the 'incomer' group blamed for its demise, while many Island-born show little concern. Through subtle analysis of this complex context, I add to anthropological understanding of 'identity' and 'way of life' by juxtaposing personal and collective responses to this process of change, and investigating the importance of scales of difference. And, in a disciplinary context that has shifted attention from bounded to boundless 'homes', I ask how far anthropological constructions go in explicating how and why our informants still struggle to strike a meaningful balance between their roots of and routes to identity? Acknowledgements That this particular journey has reached its end is due to the efforts, support and love of many people. If, in the following words, I fail to mention anyone of those people by name, be assured that I still value your contribution. First and foremost, my thanks go to the people of the Isle of Man who welcomed me, helped me to learn and gave of their time. Particular thanks go to those people whose voices are heard within this text, but most of all to Verity, Fenella and Breesha, to Shirley, Jim and the girls, and more recently to Nicky and her family. Dty charrey beayn. If not for one inspirational tutor I would not have made this journey at all. A debt of sincere gratitude, then, to Sheila Amp, without whose encouragement and energy I would never have dreamed of coming so far. To Nigel Rapport go my respect and thanks for his endless support over the past few years, without which I may well have lost my way. He offers freedom and opportunity. Intellectual lifeblood. I have no idea where the road ahead will lead, but I can set out - now - with confidence. Really. Thanks to the Department of Social Anthropology for their financial support over the years, to the Sir Richard Stapley Educational Trust for an award which assisted with living expenses, and to the Russell Trust for a fieldwork award. To my friends and colleagues (past and present) in St. Andrews, thank you. Not a paragraph each, I'm afraid, but full of gratitude nonetheless. You have listened endlessly to my 'half empty' ramblings, and been patient. Special mention, though, to Andrew (my longest travelling companion), to Liza for sharing the laughter and the tears, to Estelle for those so-valuable conversations on 'all things anthropological' and to Suzanne for her smiling patience during this final stage. May your own futures bring all you desire. To Lisa and Donna, the department's guardians, thanks for keeping me grounded (and for the cups of coffee).