PB - 1 CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS BA (HONS) JEWELLERY DESIGN 2020 BA (HONS) JEWELLERY BA (HONS) JEWELLERY DESIGN 2 - 3 Central Saint Martins University of the Arts London Granary Building 1 Granary Square London N1C 4AA www.arts.ac.uk/colleges/central-saint-martins csmbajewellery.wordpress.com instagram @csmbajewellerydesign CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 7 CECILIA AHLIN 9 MARIA FRANCISCA ARAÚJO AMANTE 11 MELODY AZIZI TORKANPOUR 13 HANNAH BOURN 15 KEWPIE CHI IENG CHAN 17 SERENA COWELL 19 CAMILLA DE FEO 21 COURTNEY DURKA 23 SHUHAN GAO 25 KATIE GIBBON 27 JING HAN 29 JO HARRISON-HALL 31 LÉA HIRALAL 33 YEN-CHAO HSIAO 35 SHANGWEI HUANG 37 MIHO ISHIZUKA 39 SUSAN JIANG 41 KIGEN KAMIJIMA 43 SIMRAN KOTHARI 45 VERONICA KWOK 47 LOIS LO 49 KAR YAN LUK 51 TAHIRA MAHMOOD 53 MILLIE MARKS 55 NATASHYA MUMTAZ 57 HANAN MUSTAFA SULTAN 59 EMILIA NAYLOR-BROWN 61 SIRUI NING 63 ZHIWEN PENG 65 HUW RIDDALL 67 SAMANTHA RODWAY-SMITH 69 ROANNE SANCHEZ-WATTS 71 SRISHTI SHAH 73 ZAK SHEINMAN 75 CAROLA SOLCIA 77 MIRI TAMENAGA 79 MARINA TELEVANTIDES 81 MIZUKI TOCHIGI 83 MARIANE TRAN 85 PHOEBE VICTORY 87 4 SMARANDA MARIA VOICAN 89 - 5 SIOBHAN WALLACE 91 OLIVIA WOODHOUSE 93 MOLLY WU 95 FIONA XIAO 97 BO NA YOON 99 SILENT XIAOYAN YU 101 ZIHAN ZHANG 103 MILLET ZHOU 105 PANIZ ZOHDINATEGH 107 POP-UP SHOP 108 STUDIO VISITS 110 SCHOLARSHIPS AND AWARDS 112 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 114 WITH THANKS TO 116 The Worshipful Company of Tin Plate Workers alias Wire Workers of the City of London Also a big thank you to: J&J Margarita Wood INTRODUCTION We are thoroughly delighted to present to you Live projects with industry contacts and cultural the work of the BA Jewellery Design graduates institutions are an important element of the of 2020. course and this cohort have participated in some excellent examples. They have taken part in: a This academic year has been truly unique for collaboration with the V&A where the students BA Jewellery Design and the graduating year of responded to the Balençiaga exhibition; a 2020. In September 2019 we welcomed back into collaboration with the Foundling Museum; a the final year, 25 students who had taken part in live project with Miranda Konstantinidou from the first Diploma in Professional Studies, a new Konplott; a medal project with the British Art optional year of work placement experience Medal Society with several of the graduating between stages two and three. They were joined students winning prizes in their first year; a by 26 students progressing directly from stage design project with Indian jewellery company, two. This created a very large cohort with a new AZVA; an eyewear project with Percy Lau; a range of experience, combined with terrific leather project with Louis Vuitton; a conscious energy and motivation. design project with Swarovski; the Cartier portfolio project; material investigation projects The year started at great pace with the final year sponsored by the Worshipful Company of Tin students creating one of the most successful BA Plate Workers alias Wire Workers of the City Jewellery Design Pop Up shops ever. This was of London and The Leathersellers’ Company; a followed by a live sponsored design project with live event in collaboration with Vitsœ in Munich Cartier which included a trip to Paris to visit in the second year and a live design project the studios, ateliers, workshops and boutiques. with Cartier this year as well as projects set by 6 - 7 Then in the early spring of 2020 came the Solange Azagury-Partridge, Theo Fennell and worldwide pandemic which, of course, changed Winterson. During the year, the students have many things. The students task of presenting also benefited from a gallery visit to Gallery collections of finished pieces was altered in SO and studio visits to Akiko Shinzato and response to the challenges of remote teaching, Castro Smith at Sarabande. Lectures by visiting learning and creativity to presenting a collection speakers this year were given by Lisa Walker, of fully considered jewellery proposals Valery Demure, Melanie Georgacopoulos, presented within a portfolio. The response has Rottingdean Bazaar, Lucie Gledhill, Julia Maria been remarkable and inspiring. Künnap, Hannah Martin, Veronika Fabian, Lydia Hartshorn and Liz Olver. This has been a very challenging time for everyone, almost unbearably so for many and We would like to express our gratitude to yet the students have risen to this and created all the friends of the course who support and unique, insightful and accomplished work. encourage our students throughout their time The themes of these collections have a very on the course and beyond. broad and exciting scope ranging from issues of identity to manipulating form and material, On behalf of the BA Jewellery Design course from the climate emergency to challenging team and everyone who has worked with this surveillance, from exploring the intrinsic value group, I would like to wish all of the graduates of things to questioning stereotypes and every success for the future. We are very excited idealisation. to see their next steps and follow their future careers. The students have been guided through this extraordinary journey with incredible skill and You will be able to view the CSM online Graduate dedication by the stage three Leader and Reader showcase from July 29th 2020. in Jewellery, Lin Cheung, and visiting tutors, Scott Wilson and Frances Wadsworth Jones. GILES LAST COURSE LEADER CECILIA AHLIN CECILIA AHLIN By using an extremely rare material – antlers that reindeer shed once a year – Cecilia has built a collection that is both primitive and stunning. Traditionally, antlers are used to make knives by the Sami people who own the reindeer. However, Cecilia innovates within this tradition, fashioning the antlers into wearable jewellery. Through this collection, Cecilia expresses her profound respect for antlers, encouraging people to know more about the 8 Nordic culture of Sami people and their reindeer. - 9 INTERPRETATIVE TEXT BY LAM PUI LEE BA (HONS) CULTURE, CRITICISM AND CURATION [email protected] Instagram @cillaahlin MARIA FRANCISCA ARAÚJO AMANTE MARIA FRANCISCA ARAÚJO AMANTE The Greek word κεφι is untranslatable; the closest English equivalent, “the spirit of joy”, falls short of encapsulating its essence. Maria’s collection, appositely titled “Kefi” after this term, centres on producing a similarly overwhelming ineffability – that of the intangible moment of joy, an affective response to the tangible sensory experience of wearing her pieces. Serving as visual, auditory and olfactory stimuli, Maria’s work swathes the wearer in a 10 vibrant symphony of energies. - 11 INTERPRETATIVE TEXT BY DANNI CHENG BA (HONS) CULTURE, CRITICISM AND CURATION [email protected] MELODY AZIZI TORKANPOUR MELODY AZIZI TORKANPOUR Melody’s collection is a modern encapsulation of antique cosmography. Through a sublime and balanced layering of spheres and swivels, she explores ancient orreries, bringing the grand migration of celestial bodies onto the wearer’s hands. Her jewellery is an ode to the interactivity of those instruments, relying on the synergy of the wearer and the piece to create movement. Her pieces employ modest components coated in fine materials, in 12 a composition reflecting the age-old human need for the - 13 precious. Merging archaic alchemy with sleek modern geometry, she creates a miniature, interactive cosmos for the wearer. INTERPRETATIVE TEXT BY NATALIA ROKOSZ BA (HONS) CULTURE, CRITICISM AND CURATION [email protected] HANNAH BOURN HANNAH BOURN Hannah’s collection explores the close connection between the human body and nature. She focusses on preserving organic forms and shapes whilst transforming natural objects collected from the seashore into pieces of jewellery. Drawing inspiration from biophilic design, which reconnects humans to nature, Hannah uses shells, pearls, and seaweed, adapting them for adornment of the human body. With minimal intervention in the raw material, she 14 explores the fluidity of the shapes, highlighting their - 15 delicate beauty by using precious metals to breathe life back into their inanimate forms. INTERPRETATIVE TEXT BY NATALIA ANNA SEWERYN BA (HONS) CULTURE, CRITICISM AND CURATION [email protected] www.hannahbourn.com Instagram @han.bourn KEWPIE CHI IENG CHAN KEWPIE CHI IENG CHAN Inspired by the notion of unifying what was once broken, Kewpie’s collection, which she calls “United”, translates human connection into the intricate language of her jewellery. Crafted from recycled ceramic, brass and silver, her collection features traditional motifs of peace and union. Referencing long-established ceramic repair methods, each piece carries a unique history and is produced by hand, using up-cycled materials: 16 sustainability and longevity are key factors for the artist. - 17 INTERPRETATIVE TEXT BY HANNA KISS BA (HONS) CULTURE, CRITICISM AND CURATION [email protected] www.qpejewellery.myportfolio.com Instagram @q_pe_studio SERENA COWELL SERENA COWELL Serena’s collection “Kaleidoscope” gives life and wearability to the inspiration for her work, the butterfly wing. Using a single element – the jump ring – and a distinct technique of linking, she mimics and magnifies the scale-like structure of the lepidopteran creature. Rings in heat-treated nichrome, copper and anodised aluminium lend subtle contrast and iridescence to her chainmail jewellery. In true celebration of the butterfly, 18 her pieces boast lightness and flexibility, morphing to the - 19 body when worn. INTERPRETATIVE TEXT BY POORNIMA GURU BA (HONS) CULTURE, CRITICISM AND CURATION [email protected] CAMILLA DE FEO CAMILLA DE FEO Inspired by her father’s passion for making things, Camilla’s collection stems from a desire to capture his spirit of craftsmanship and self-directed inventiveness. By manipulating materials like the ones found in her father’s workshop, she reinterprets objects not traditionally associated with jewellery – such as karabiners, fish lures and climbing harnesses – into decorative objects. Her juxtaposition of these miscellaneous materials echoes the 20 buzzing atmosphere of the workshop, and celebrates a - 21 life filled with experimentation and curiosity.