Telephone: +44 (0) 1722 322 652 Email: [email protected] Camino Primitivo de Santiago – 12 nights In the steps of King Alfonso the Chaste https://www.onfootholidays.co.uk/routes/camino-primitivo-de-santiago/camino-primitivo-de-santiago-12-nights/ Route Summary At a glance 12 nights (11 walking days - missing first two walking days). Shortenable to 11 nights if you miss Campiello (see itinerary). For extra nights Oviedo, Lugo and of course Santiago are a must. How much walking? Full days: 14-33 km per day, 4-8 hrs walking Using shortening options: 14-27km per day, or less with local taxi use. Max. Grade: page 1/12 12-night version starting at Oviedo; walking starts at Salas. This version misses out the first two walking days (compromised in any event by road construction), and the nights in Grado and Salas. For general introduction see 14 night version. The grading of this walk (medium-hard) is more an attestation to the length of the days rather than ups-and-downs; the underfoot conditions are good in the main (prepared path for the final two days) and navigation via the famous scallop shells is easy. You can always shorten days by calling local taxis. If however you wish to obtain a “Compostela” on completion you need to comply with various conditions, notably that the final 100km must be completed on foot, and that you are walking with a “religious or spiritual purpose”. Route Highlights ● The cathedral at Oviedo ● The “Hospitales” ridge walk ● Longarela – the prettiest accommodation on the route ● Roman Lugo, its walls, little streets and cathedral ● The Galician countryside ● Santiago – not only the cathedral and the pilgrim atmosphere but the beautiful old town too We Recommend Attaining the Compostela, extra nights in Oviedo, Lugo and Santiago. Specially good accommodation in Castroverde and As Seixas may also make an extra night worth considering. Grading Full days: 14-33 km per day, 4-8 hrs walking Using shortening options: 14-27km per day, or less with local taxi use. page 2/12 Long days, but on well-marked paths and excellent signage. Highest point on route: 1200m. No vertigo issues. Medium-hard: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 577m (300m-900m) per day. Shortening options always available with local taxis (travelling with luggage not an option as these transfers are by carrier). GPX file available for handheld GPS or smartphone App for complete route. Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information. When to go Best months to walk: May, June, September, October Other possible months: April, July, August The shorter option from Lugo to Santiago can be done at any time of year; the weather in the Asturian Hills limits the walking season for the rest of the walk as shown below. We recommend May-June for flowers and October for autumn colour and pleasant walking conditions. July and August should be avoided as it can be very hot and the crowd of boisterous pilgrims may overwhelm. Try to be in Santiago on a Friday evening to enjoy the pilgrims' service in the cathedral, and when the Botafumeiro might be in full swing. Use the calendar below to see in more detail the best times to walk. NOTE: Xacobeo 2021 and 2022 2021 is a Camino de Santiago Holy Year which occurs when the Feast of St James (25 July) falls on a Sunday. St James is the patron saint of pilgrims and the camino, and therefore, this is a cause for great celebration. There will be lots of events, extra church services, and thousands more people flocking to the pilgrimage trails than in a normal year, and due to the COVID-19 pandemic, these celebrations have been extended into 2022 too. According to Jacobean tradition, pilgrims who walk to Santiago de Compostela during a Holy Year and Pass through the Holy Door of the Santiago Cathedral are forgiven all their sins. This is called a plenary indulgence and was started by Pope Calixto II. The very first Holy Year was in 1122, with Holy Years falling every 6,5,6 and 11 years. The next one is in 2027. Therefore, be prepared for hotels being busy and finding many more pilgrims on the way to Santiago. Please note: date ranges shown are for a 'normal' year. While Covid-19 restrictions remain, please contact us to discuss your plans and availability. Itinerary Day 1 - Arrive in Oviedo Arrive in Oviedo, settle into your hotel and wander around the old town and cathedral before supper and a good night's sleep before you start your journey. page 3/12 Day 2 - Transfer to Salas then walk to Tineo After a thirty-minute transfer to historic Salas, walk up a wooded valley out of the town, with a detour opportunity for waterfall viewing, to meet a main road. About 1km of road follwos, then off to meet an under-construction road before finally arriving at La Espina. After La Espina (shops and bars) the Camino follows quiet country roads and tracks. Pleasant for the first hour and from La Espina, with wide views across the valley. (Medium-hard: 5 hrs, 19km, CUSs 650m) Shorten with local taxi to La Espina (Easy: 3 hrs, 11km, CUSs 300m) Day 3 - Tineo to Campiello A very short day starts with a fabulous walk out of Tineo and up to the ridge via a balcony route with great views south. Then down on tracks and paths towards the abandoned but atmospheric Obona monastery. The final stretch into Campiello is an unavoidable asphalt haul, but you will be warmly welcomed on arrival by the legendary Herminia. (Easy-medium: 3½ hrs, 14km, CUSs 300m). Option Pre-arranged alternative: the short "Day 5", and the Campiello night, can be missed altogether with a lift from Tineo to either La Mortera for the high level Day 6 Hospitales route or to Pola for the lower level (perhaps bad weather) but equally enjoyable route, both joining at Puerto del Palo. This shortens the route by one night. Day 4 - Campiello to Berducedo - the Hospitales route Campiello to Berducedo. Rightly feted as one of the Camino Primitivo’s best sections with a remote 3 hour walk up to 1200m, fabulous 360 degree views once on the ridge and 3 ruined ‘hospitales’ to ponder on. The descent from Puerto del Palo to Montefurado is also famous, for all the wrong reasons (steep underfoot) but it is short, and thereafter the day is pleasant and undemandingly rural. (Hard: 8 hrs, 27km, CUSs 800m, or 6½ hrs, 21km, CUSs 750m with local taxi at start) Bad weather alternative: Local taxi at start to Pola for equally beautiful, route up to Puerto del Palo where the two routes join; (Medium-hard: 5 hrs, 18km, CUss 800m) Day 5 - Berducedo to Las Grandas We suggest making an early start from Berducedo to enjoy the sun coming up over the ridge behind you, a late breakfast in a delightful cafe in the next village, lunch at Las Grandas hotel by the reservoir, and time to visit the very wonderful Ethnographic Museum in Las Grandas (not Mondays). (Medium-hard: 5½ hrs, 20km, CUSs 700m - no realistic shortening options) Day 6 - Grandas to Fonsagrada A day of two halves: the first often on an original Camino way through ancient woodland with small chapels to peer through their grilles at (always locked!). However, you are heading for the ridge which divides Asturias from Galicia. Down the other side is a potential lunch stop at Acevo’s old (and only) bar before the climb to ridge top Fonsagrada. Includes 2km main road walking. (Hard: 6 hrs, 26km, CUSs 750m OR local taxi to Acevo then walk - easy: 3 hrs, 12km, CUSs 300m) page 4/12 Day 7 - Fonsagrada to Castroverde One of the most pleasant days on the Camino Primitivo, with plenty of track and path walking and little asphalt, plus congenial bars to break up the day. Some of the scenery is very beautiful – wide ranging vistas from the ridge-top windmills, peaceful valleys where rural Galician life can be viewed. The day ends easily with a largely gentle, easy descent to Cadavo and another ascent to the little town of Castroverde from where you will be picked up by your hosts. (Hard: 8½ hrs, 33km, CUSs 900m or save 8 km at the end with a taxi from Cadavo (arrange/pay locally) - medium-hard: 6½ hrs, 25km, CUSs 650m) Day 8 - Castroverde to Lugo An undemanding day’s walk on good tracks and quiet (in the main) roads through gentle countryside and pretty stone villages, finally arriving in Lugo itself, one of the highlights of the camino. Massive and ancient stone walls surround the historic centre so be sure to leave enough time to explore. (Medium-hard: 5 hrs, 22km, CUSs 400m) Option An extra night in Lugo provides a good break, and a chance to explore the old core of this Roman-walled town. Day 9 - Lugo to As Seixas This long day will be attempted in full only by those anxious to gain the Compostela, as the first half is almost entirely along unremitting asphalt, and occasionally busy too. For ordinary mortals a taxi to San Roman (pay locally) is best, from where the walking becomes more varied and there is still a good 16km to go. (San Roman to As Seixas Medium 4 hrs, 16km, CUSs 450m.