The Tuamotus Why Go? Rangiroa ........................153 Life in the fast lane not your style? Head for the Tuamotus. Tikehau ..........................162 It’s the dream South Seas snapshot: the 77 atolls – narrow Mataiva ..........................165 coral rings encircling turquoise lagoons – that make up this Fakarava ....................... 166 stunning archipelago are fl ung over an immense stretch of indigo-blue ocean. Manihi ............................ 171 Life in the atolls is equal parts harsh and paradisiacal: Ahe ................................173 hardly anything grows so there’s little fruit and vegetables, and the only drinking water is collected from the rain. Yet the silence, starry skies, coral beaches, blue lagoons, idyllic Best Places to motu (coral islets) and languid pace of life captivate nearly Stay everyone who makes it here. Most tourists visit Rangiroa, Tikehau, Fakarava and Manihi, which have the bulk of tour- » Ninamu Resort (p 164 ) ist infrastructure, but it’s also possible to explore lesser- » Kia Ora Resort & Spa known beauties such as Ahe and Mataiva. (p 158 ) If you’re into diving and snorkelling – the main reasons to » Ariiheevai – Chez come to the Tuamotus – you’ll be ecstatic. The vast, pristine Alphonsine (p 166 ) marine area off ers unparalleled opportunities to encounter the menagerie of marine life. For nondivers, fantastic lagoon » Cocoperle Lodge (p 173 ) excursions beckon. » Raimiti (p 170 ) » Tevahine Dream (p 156 ) When to Go Best Places to Eat The Tuamotus get more sunshine than any other archipela- go in French Polynesia. The shoulder seasons (April to May » Snack Te Anuanua (p 171 ) and October to November) are the best times to visit. From » Cocoperle Lodge (p 173 ) December to March is the period when storms and rain are » Raira Lagon – Beach more likely. It’s still very warm, but the humidity is higher. Raira (p 160 ) Between June and September the prevailing trade winds produce pleasantly mild weather but rough seas – not ideal for boat excursions. Diving is excellent year-round but the seas are calmer from October to May. 152 TUAMOTUS TUAMOTUS THE THE The Tuamotus Highlights TUAMOTUS THE 1 Diving the legendary an oyster at a pearl farm at 4 Cycling to coconut of Les Sables Roses (p 166 ) 7 Leaving the world behind Tiputa Pass (p 154 ) and Manihi (p 171 ) plantations and past the on Fakarava on remote Makemo (p 167 ) Garuae Pass (p 167 ) 3 Walking along the pink- emerald lagoon of Mataiva 6 Slowing things down on 8 Seeing surreal, raised coral 2 Watching a lustrous dark and white-sand beaches on (p 165 ) quietly charming Ahe formations at Île aux Récifs pearl being ‘birthed’ from Tikehau (p 162 ) 5 Finding your own slice of (p 173 ) (p 154 ), south of Rangiroa heaven on the unspoilt sands Manihi Napuka 0 400 km Tikehau 0 250 miles Tiputa Takaroa Di s appo i n Puka Puka t men t Pass Ahe I s l Mataiva Takapoto and ArutuaApataki s Île aux Récifs Aratika Kaukura Kauehi Takume Fangatau Makatea Toau Fakahina S O U T H P A C I F I C Katiu Raroia Fakarava Garuae Pass O C E A N The Soc Makemo i e t Faaite Tetiaroa y I s Fakarava l a Tahanea Tatakoto PAPE'ETE n Anaa Mo'orea d Hikueru s Amanu Tahiti Marokau Hao Pukarua Reao Vahitahi Nukutavake D u Hereheretue ke o f G lo uce Tureia S O U T H P A C I F I C s te r Is O C E A N lands Moruroa Maria Island Fangataufa Tropic of Capricorn Gambier Archipelago Mangareva.