FHH Watchmaking Trends Report 2018 Contents Introduction _________________3 External Parts _______________7 Best Picks The steel deal _______________________8 SIHH Figures _________________________5 Making it personal ___________________9 Philippe Dufour ________________ 30 Master watchmaker Interviews The reign of colour _________________10 Eric Giroud _____________________31 Jean-Christophe Babin _______________6 Designer _________________________12 CEO of Bvlgari Design Baselworld Classic rules _______________________13 Kristian Haagen ____________________ 11 Emmanuel Gueit _______________ 32 CONTENTS Influencer Affordable icons ____________________14 Designer Chabi Nouri ________________________16 Vintage-mania _____________________15 Gianfranco Ritschel _____________ 33 CEO of Piaget Watchmaking consultant and trainer François-Xavier Overstake ___________21 Movements___________________17 FHH WATCHMAKING TRENDS REPORT 2018 REPORT TRENDS FHH WATCHMAKING Influencer Slim & precise ______________________18 Conclusion __________________ 34 Louis Ferla ________________________ 24 Useful & desirable __________________19 CEO of Vacheron Constantin Impressum/Disclaimer _ 35 A creative force ___________________ 20 Carson Chan ______________________ 27 Influencer Forecasts About Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 1. Customer service ________________ 22 2. Second-hand ___________________ 25 3. E-commerce ____________________ 28 — 2 — INTRODUCTION Each year begins with the same interrogation: what will the new trends in watches be? What novel shapes, mechanical innovations or design twists can we look forward to? These are legitimate questions, given the vast amounts of creativity and INTRODUCTION technical know-how at work in an industry that FHH WATCHMAKING TRENDS REPORT 2018 REPORT TRENDS FHH WATCHMAKING never fails to reinvent itself, year after year. Fine Watch brands, like Haute Couture houses, have their “fashion weeks” – trade events for the most part – where they can exhibit, explain and show the world their latest products. — 3 — INTRODUCTION It’s here, at these industry gatherings, that the of these mechanical marvels. Taking the trends set to dominate watches for the twelve temperature of these two events is therefore months to come are revealed. Starting the ball essential when seeking to understand how rolling, in January, is Salon International de the industry is moving ahead. la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, which held its 28th edition in 2018, followed a few The authors of this report are inside observers INTRODUCTION weeks later by Baselworld, the world watch with many years' experience of these two key and jewellery show, in Basel since 1917. For any dates in the watchmaking calendar. Since 2015, FHH WATCHMAKING TRENDS REPORT 2018 REPORT TRENDS FHH WATCHMAKING brand with global distribution, or looking to they have compiled an in-depth review of the make a name on international markets, taking year's launches in an online publication. As a part in either - or both - is a must. However complement to this, we have mapped out the much digital is transforming sales, nothing highlights of 2018 in watchmaking, as illustrated has yet replaced presentations “in the metal” by the trends spotted at SIHH and Baselworld. — 4 — FIGURES CHF bn 10 15 20 Companies 0 5 Swiss watchexports2017 Workforce andcompaniesintheSwisswatchindustry Source: Federationof the SwissWatchIndustryFH 1 1 2 2 0 5 0 5 5 0 00 0 00 0 0 0 0 4.9 0 Source: 2016censusofstaandcompaniesinSwisswatchmakingmicrotechnologyindustries Electronic wristwatches 2012 15.3 20.2 1950 Companies 4.6 1955 2013 16.0 20.6 1960 4.4 Workforce 1965 2014 16.6 21.0 Mechanical wristwatches 1970 4.0 2015 16.3 1975 20.2 1980 3.6 2016 14.7 1985 18.3 3.5 1990 Total 2017 15.3 18.8 1995 2000 2012 21.4 2005 + Movements) (Electronic +Mechanical Total exportvalue 2013 21.8 +1.9% 2010 2014 22.3 +1.9% 2015 2015 21.5 -3.2% 0 20 000 40 000 60 000 80 000 100 000 — 5 2016 19.4 -9.9% — variation 2017 19.9 +2.7% Workforce Market in € bn Online salesofpersonalluxurygoods TOP 10-Swisswatchexportspercountryin2017 20 10 2000 15 2500 1000 0 1500 5 Source: Federationof the SwissWatchIndustryFH 500 0 2003 Source: FederationoftheSwissWatchIndustryFH 2004 +3% Hong Kong 2525 +6% 2005 +31% USA 2050 -4.4% 2006 +29% FHH WATCHMAKING TRENDS REPORT 2018 REPORT TRENDS FHH WATCHMAKING 2007 +18% China 1537 +18.8 +12% 2008 UK 1290 +7% 2009 +21% Japan 1229 -2.6% 2010 +29% Italy 2011 +29% 1181 0% +33% 2012 Singapore 1099 +8.5% 2013 +27% Germany 1078 -2.2% 2014 +22% France 2015 +40% 982 -0.4% variation +13% vs. 2016 % change 2016 UAE 891 -3.5% 0 1% 2% 3% 4% 5% 6% 7% 8% Share of online retail FIGURES ON FINE WATCHES ON AUDIENCES ON THE FUTURE “We look GENERATION OF What’s the big- Which expanding WATCHMAKERS to balance gest opportunity customer groups activity for your brand to are you focusing How do you find increase its appeal your marketing new watchmakers between to customers? (and design) and what qualities do you look for? millennials That we further efforts on? express Bvlgari Generally speaking, we We look for creative, rule-breaking talent and mature watchmaking’s unique look to balance activity that will carry forward fusion of Swiss Haute between millennials customers.” Bvlgari watchmaking’s Horlogerie expertise and more established, strengths and heritage, with contemporary mature customers. This as well as break new Italian design, shows throughout our ground and keep already epitomised communication which Bvlgari at the top by the Serpenti, spans social media and of its field. Diva Finissima, traditional print. It’s BABIN JEAN-CHRISTOPHE INTERVIEW Octo Finissimo and also evident in our col- Lvcea Tubogas. lections, which cover a spectrum from beauti- ful gem-set pieces and dials that confirm our high-jewellery status to contemporary materials such as ce- FHH WATCHMAKING TRENDS REPORT 2018 REPORT TRENDS FHH WATCHMAKING ramic and titanium. INTERVIEW INTERVIEW Babin Jean-Christophe of Bvlgari CEO — 6 — EXTERNAL PARTS As classicism, including in materials, becomes the defining PARTS EXTERNAL element across the board of watchmaking, opportunities for customisation become more important. Reflecting this trend are the brighter colour options and interchangeable straps, FHH WATCHMAKING TRENDS REPORT 2018 REPORT TRENDS FHH WATCHMAKING now widely available. — 7 — EXTERNAL PARTS “Our collections cover a spectrum The steel from beautiful gem-set pieces and dials deal that confirm our high-jewellery status to contemporary materials such as DEAL / THE STEEL PARTS EXTERNAL The race to develop high-tech materials − ceramic and titanium.” JEAN-CHRISTOPHE BABIN, CEO BVLGARI once the industry's new grail − has died down among all but a handful of brands that have made performance their raison d'être. No longer a mark of originality, ceramic and carbon, alongside bronze for its vintage patina, FHH WATCHMAKING TRENDS REPORT 2018 REPORT TRENDS FHH WATCHMAKING are now part of the landscape. Just as designs become more subdued, traditional metals are back in fashion. Luxury and steel form a proposition that appeals strongly to millennials, while for other generations gold continues to hold status value. Platinum, once reserved for gem-set watches, returns in the high-end segment while titanium continues to make inroads in the sport watch category. Grönefeld Girard-Perregaux Ulysse Nardin Vacheron Constantin Parallax Tourbillon Neo Tourbillon with Marine Torpilleur Military Fiftysix Day-Date Three Bridges Skeleton — 8 — EXTERNAL PARTS Making it “I hope watch brands will speak the language personal of the consumer more / MAKING IT PERSONAL PARTS EXTERNAL In the late 1990s, fashion watches frequently than the language came in packages that included two or more interchangeable straps. The idea was of the retailer.” KRISTIAN HAAGEN shortlived, mainly because swapping straps required a special tool or fiddling with buttons, at the risk of breaking a fingernail. FHH WATCHMAKING TRENDS REPORT 2018 REPORT TRENDS FHH WATCHMAKING As demand for customisation options grows, interchangeable straps stand out as the most practical and affordable way for customers to put a new spin on their timepiece. Accordingly, a number of brands have developed ingenious systems that enable the wearer to change straps in a few simple moves or, for a metal bracelet, add or remove links to fit. As a consequence, several of this year’s new models are delivered with more than one strap. Cartier Piaget Hermès TAG Heuer Santos Possession Carré H Formula 1 Lady — 9 — EXTERNAL PARTS The reign of colour / THE REIGN OF COLOUR PARTS EXTERNAL Colour is all the rage this year, as cases, dials Bovet 1822 Roger Dubuis H. Moser & Cie Van Cleef & Arpels and straps come alive with vibrant shades – Château de Môtiers 40 Excalibur Aventador S Endeavour Tourbillon Lady Arpels Concept Planétarium particularly for women who want a watch with a more assertive, standout aesthetic. Those who were tired of the predictable combination of a white or black dial inside “The newly launched FHH WATCHMAKING TRENDS REPORT 2018 REPORT TRENDS FHH WATCHMAKING an inevitably gold or steel case are now spoiled for choice. Blue has become almost Les Aérostiers collection standard fare, while green is gaining currency alongside some distinctly funky shades. mirrors our values and As well as becoming a canvas for colour, illustrates our ability to dials remain a showcase for watchmaking’s companion crafts, the métiers d’art, although tell a story and push the these are more of a rarity this year