University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Anthropology Department Theses and Anthropology, Department of Dissertations 6-2017 Dressing the Part: Clothing and Gender Identity on the Frontier Artifacts from Steamboat Bertrand Kami Ahrens University of Nebraska-Lincoln, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/anthrotheses Part of the Anthropology Commons Ahrens, Kami, "Dressing the Part: Clothing and Gender Identity on the Frontier Artifacts from Steamboat Bertrand" (2017). Anthropology Department Theses and Dissertations. 47. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/anthrotheses/47 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Anthropology, Department of at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Anthropology Department Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Dressing the Part: Clothing and Gender Identity on the Frontier Artifacts from Steamboat Bertrand By Kami Ahrens A THESIS Presented to the Faculty of The Graduate College at the University of Nebraska In Partial Fulfillment of Requirements For the Degree of Master of Arts Major: Anthropology Under the Supervision of Professor Effie Athanassopoulos Lincoln, Nebraska June 2017 Dressing the Part: Clothing and Gender Identity on the Frontier Artifacts from Steamboat Bertrand Kami Ahrens, M.A. University of Nebraska, 2017 Advisor: Effie Athanassopoulos This study re-examines established views on gender divisions in the nineteenth century and further investigates the relationship between identity construction and material culture, with an emphasis on clothing. Using artifacts from the Steamboat Bertrand collection as a case study, the project explores the maintenance and performance of Victorian gender ideals in Montana mining communities. Steamboat Bertrand sank in 1865 on its maiden journey to Fort Benton, Montana, carrying a variety of goods for commercial sale, as well as the personal goods of passengers aboard the ship. The artifacts excavated from the ship provide a unique examination into the lives of men and women on the frontier. Artifact analysis and historical research serve as the primary methods for exploring concepts of gender and identity. Representative textiles for analysis were sourced from both the commercial and personal cargos to better understand the fluidity of gender role performance and translation of Victorian values into western communities. Clothing, as the most personal form of material culture, provides an accessible avenue to understand concepts of both individual and community identities. Additionally, the imbalanced demographics of mining towns, such as those in Montana, provide unique scenarios for interrogating the relationship between material culture and identity construction in the mid-nineteenth century. The written narrative of this thesis is accompanied by a digital exhibit hosted on Scalar which explores similar concepts through an object-centered investigation. The project makes use of digitized primary documents, photographs, and 3D models of artifacts to present a multimedia narrative that engages the audience in a critical examination of the past. Though the digital exhibit utilizes a broader artifact set than this thesis, both projects engage in similar analyses that re-examine the experiences of men and women on the frontier. These projects engage with narratives of the past to deepen the understanding of lived experiences in western communities. i To Riley, my constant companion ii Acknowledgements I would like to extend my deepest gratitude to the incredible community of scholars who have supported me through this journey, especially Dr. Effie Athanassopoulos who has provided me with direction and motivation when I needed it most. Thank you for your confidence in me and for challenging me to explore new opportunities and ideas. Also to Dr. Carrie Heitman for her wealth of knowledge on gender and for always asking the questions I missed. To Dr. Claire Nicholas and her incredibly rich background in clothing, textiles, and community, and for her unfailing enthusiasm. You each brought unique and enlightening approaches to my research. I am honored to have been given the chance to work with such strong, intelligent women. You all have inspired me to further my academic and career goals and have challenged me to be relentless in my pursuit of knowledge. To Dr. Wayne Babchuk, for his incessant confidence in me and infectious positivity. I am grateful to have found friendship among such a notable scholar. I would be remiss without extending my sincerest thanks to Dean Knudsen, curator of the Bertrand collection. I am incredibly grateful for your willingness to assist me, for sharing the collection and your knowledge with me, and the countless hours of great classic rock. I would not be where I am now without the mentorship and friendship of Dr. Steve Dasovich, who knew I was an archaeologist long before I ever did. Your continued dedication to my success is humbling and I thank you for always pushing me towards the next goal. iii Lastly, my greatest thanks to my friends and family who have supported me through these past two years and patiently served as sounding boards for my many ideas. To my many friends and colleagues who helped make Lincoln home. Most of all, to my parents, who never stopped encouraging me or pushing me, even when I thought I had met failure. My success is fueled by your faith and love. I am forever grateful. iv Table of Contents Chapter 1: Introduction ....................................................................................................1 Project Goals ................................................................................................................................ 1 Documentary and Material Resources ......................................................................................... 3 Digital Outreach ........................................................................................................................... 5 Project Contributions ................................................................................................................... 7 Chapter 2: Steamboat Bertrand: Trade and Transportation on the Missouri River ..9 Trade on the Missouri River ...................................................................................................... 10 Previous Research ...................................................................................................................... 15 Chapter 3: Theoretical Framework: Gender Identity, Consumer Culture and Embodiment in the Nineteenth Century ........................................................................19 Defining Gender ......................................................................................................................... 20 Gender in Archaeology .............................................................................................................. 22 Gender Attribution ..................................................................................................................... 24 Class and Consumption .............................................................................................................. 28 Dress and Embodiment .............................................................................................................. 29 Chapter 4: Domesticity and the Frontier: Victorian Gender Roles and Montana Mining Communities .......................................................................................................32 Men and Masculinity ................................................................................................................. 34 Women and Westward Movement ............................................................................................. 40 Chapter 5: Artifacts and Methodology ..........................................................................46 Artifact Categories ..................................................................................................................... 49 Chapter 6: Dress and Gender: Analysis of the Bertrand Textiles ...............................57 Fashion in the Nineteenth Century ............................................................................................. 57 The Bertrand Textiles ................................................................................................................ 60 Chapter 7: Conclusion .....................................................................................................77 Appendix A: Artifact Catalog .........................................................................................81 Appendix B: Selected Known Passengers of Bertrand..................................................99 Appendix C: Making the Frontier Home: Methodology for Creating a Digital Exhibit .............................................................................................................................101 Appendix D: Census Data, Montana 1870 ...................................................................105 References .......................................................................................................................115 v List of Figures Figure 2.1: Account of Bertrand sinking ...........................................................................10 Figure 2.2: Ad for Stuart