THE AUSTRALIAN BEEF COMPENDIUM CONTENTS Beef in Australia 2 Every step of the way 7 Cattle Breeds 12 Beef grading systems 22 Processing 37 Selling beef 43 Beef cuts and utilisation 47 Cooking techniques 62 Beef Offal 86 Gravy & Sauces 95 BEEF IN AUSTRALIA THE AUSTRALIAN BEEF COMPENDIUM – BEEF IN AUSTRALIA | 4 he first cattle arrived in Australia, like the first Governor King’s description of the bull: ‘The rising on white Australians, on the First Fleet. Like millions the top of the shoulders is not that of the Buffalo Breed Tof migrants who followed them, not knowing what … they are formed like the Tame Bull Gorgon…with awaited them in their new home, those first white settlers a thick neck and broad high shoulders.’ And also from brought with them all the comforts and culinary items the journals of the French architect and explorer, Ensign they were used to. The cattle herd included one bull, one Francis Barrallier, who wrote that a bull he had discovered bull calf, and seven cows, all black, which had boarded at lying dead in a gully was ‘of a reddish colour with white The Cape of Good Hope. spots’, and that later he came across a ‘superb black ox.’ One cow died at sea, one proved dangerous and was From these descriptions and his knowledge of shot and, on landing, the remaining two bulls and five cattle breeds, Rolls surmises that ‘Old Gorgon was an cows wandered off or were deliberately driven into the Africander’ and because of the black ox, ‘once can bush by a convict. A convict named Corbet was suspected deduce that at least one of the first cows was either as he had, according to Watkin Tench, in his book A one of the new Africander crosses… or more likely a Narrative of the Expedition to Botany Bay, ‘eloped nearly Vaderlander…’ at the same time, it was at first believed, that he had taken Both these cattle are of distant Zebu (Bos indicus) the desperate measure of driving off the cattle, in order to ancestry and Rolls suggests they ‘fixed the shape and the subsist on them as long as possible; or perhaps to deliver colour of a Zebu-shorthorn cross to produce the deep red them to the natives.’ Santa Gertrudis.’ After an intense search lasting three weeks, Governor When the Blue Mountains were crossed in 1813, Phillip assumed they had been eaten by the local the discoveries of vast acres of lush pasture (created by Aborigines and abandoned hope of finding them. The indigenous land care methods of judicious burning off) unfortunate Corbet was executed, although, according to encouraged the great Australian enterprise of grazing, Tench, ‘In the course of repeated examinations it plainly which turned us into a nation of meat-eaters. appeared, he was an utter stranger to the place where the By 1880, there were more than 10 million cattle in cattle might be, and was in no shape concerned in having Australia, and in 1898, the first Australian breed, the driven them off.’ Illawarra Shorthorn was developed in Kiama, NSW. Much later, in 1795, news of a herd of wild cattle, A notable feature of cattle farming in Australia was relayed by local Aborigines, was bought to the attention the practice of droving. From the early days of white of the authorities. Another report has them discovered settlement, the land was criss-crossed with the stock by an escaping convict. Two months after arriving in the routes of large mobs of cattle (and sheep) moving from colony, Governor Hunter, Phillip’s successor, sent a party one place to the other, accompanied by drovers and their to investigate the reports. dogs. The officer despatched reported he had seen the The first stock routes were forged inland, where mobs animals, and Hunter and a party set out to the present site of cattle were driven in search of good grazing land; then of Camden and found a herd grazing contentedly. They heading to the coast to bring the stock to market. Huge named the place they were discovered The Cowpastures, mobs of cattle and sheep were constantly on the move and it was reserved as a grazing ground for the cattle. around the country. It was a hard life for many, but also Other cattle had been imported in the intervening years, one of freedom and adventure. Today, the truck and the but those at Cowpastures were obviously the direct truck driver have replaced the drover and his dog. descendents of the herd from The Cape. Two years later, they had multiplied to 170. Rolls’ conjecturing aside, it was not until the 1930s, Brahman cattle (Bos indicus) were deliberately introduced In his book A Million Wild Acres, historian Eric into Australia, but the herd continues to be dominated Rolls makes the point that those cattle that escaped to by cattle mostly of British origin (Bos taurus): Hereford, Cowpastures were important because ‘Their blood was Aberdeen Angus, and Beef Shorthorn, and, since the in the rough, early cattle, the colonial cattle’ and that 1920s, breeds which cross indicus and taurus, like Australia was ‘developing not only its own men but its Droughtmaster. own livestock.’ As to what they were, Rolls quotes from COPYRIGHT MEAT AND LIVESTOCK AUSTRALIA LIMITED THE AUSTRALIAN BEEF COMPENDIUM – BEEF IN AUSTRALIA | 5 In the late-1960s, large European breeds such as dishes.’ These recipes ranged from ‘Beef au Diable’ to Limousin, Charolais and Simmental were introduced ‘Beef sliced with Mayonnaise.’ and crossed with British breed stock to produce larger The next advance was refrigeration, to send frozen beef animals. on the long haul to England, a quest which was itself a Today, approximately 70 per cent of Australian beef long haul. cattle are raised on the lush native and improved pastures, In 1873, some 20 tons of frozen beef and mutton 30 per cent grainfed. The Australian herd currently stands (there was also an over-supply of sheep) were sent to at around 28.5 million head (2013). England packed in ice in an insulated chamber devised by inventor James Harrison. The ice melted long before The birth of the export trade the ship reached London, and the beef was thrown With ten million cattle and just over two million overboard. people in the late nineteenth century, there was a glut of In 1877 Sydney entrepreneur and businessman Thomas beef. Something had to be done. Mort, in collaboration with French-born refrigeration In 1843, during an economic slump, carcases were engineer Eugène Dominique Nicolle, fitted refrigerating boiled down to make tallow for candles, soap and plant in the ship Northam, but it ran into technical industrial grease. But this was a waste of good meat – and problems and the ship sailed without the frozen cargo. not profitable. In 1879, the Strathleven, set sail with a British In 1845, Sizar Elliott, an English-born Sydney based refrigeration plant installed and a shipment of beef partly entrepreneur was the first in Australia to use the relatively financed by Queensland businessman and later premier new process of canning – the patent was taken out in Thomas McIlwraith. The frozen meat arrived in 1880. 1810 by Peter Durand, an English merchant, who then However, because ice crystals had invaded and damaged canned meat for export. the cells, the meat lost colour, and was sodden and Although Elliott’s enterprise failed, in 1848, brothers flavourless. Henry, Richard and William Dangar opened a cannery in The demand was for chilled beef, and the country Newcastle with contracts to supply the British Admiralty. closer to the markets – Argentina – had the advantage. This enterprise also failed, due to the cost of importing By the early twentieth century, Australia was able to tin plate and high labour and cattle costs due to the gold ship chilled beef, hanging quarters at between 1º and rushes. 1.5ºC, with CO2 pumped into the refrigerated chambers to But by 1869, manufacturers in Queensland were inhibit bacterial growth. By 1930, improved refrigeration exporting over one million kilograms of canned meat and faster ships were instrumental in growing Australia’s each year to Great Britain, where it was enthusiastically exports, and by 1937-38 they had grown to 28,000 tonne. accepted as food for those who could not afford fresh Those countries closest to the European market meat. shipped chilled beef, and squeezed Australia out of In Mrs Beeton’s 1880 cookbook, Australian meats were the market until the 1930s, when successful Australian described as ‘wholesome and cheap, two great points in chilling was achieved. Then the Second World War their favour’ although she noted that ‘an objection has intervened. been raised to the appearance of Australian and other The export of chilled beef in any quantity didn’t really tinned meats …’ pick up until the late 1960s. In 1968, a trial shipment was Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery, published in 1892, sent off, which consisted of an assortment of boneless included 100 recipes for ‘Tinned meat, Australian’, of beef primals in three layered vacuum packed bags which it said: ‘against these, considerable prejudice in wooden boxes. By 1970, all Australian processing exists… (but) If the recipes here given, however, are companies were using this system. followed, it will be found easy, even for a cook of Further developments have been four layer vacuum moderate abilities, to prepare from Australian meats, a packing offering extremely low levels of oxygen succession of tasty as well as digestible and nourishing permeability and vastly improved strength, and high speed machines delivering stronger heat sealing. COPYRIGHT MEAT AND LIVESTOCK AUSTRALIA LIMITED THE AUSTRALIAN BEEF COMPENDIUM – BEEF IN AUSTRALIA | 6 Exports at the time of writing break down into: Research is being conducted into various forages, • 75 per cent grassfed beef high oil and high tannin dietary supplements.