© Lonely Planet Publications 278 Northeastern SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND NORTHEASTERN NORTHEASTERN Switzerland Away from the awe-inspiring spectacle of the Alps and the country’s key cities lies a swathe of deep Switzerland that oozes a gentler beauty little touched by international tourism. It offers a wealth of opportunities for discovering the heart of the Germanic part of the nation. Schaffhausen, St Gallen (famed for its extraordinary library) and neighbouring Germany’s Konstanz, are bite-sized, centuries-old urban jewels full of surprises, from an urban castle surrounded by vineyards to hidden taverns and traditional restaurants. The placid plains and low hill country of the north attract cyclists from all directions. Several castles and pleasant settlements dot the shores of Lake Constance and the Rhine. Vineyards producing the favoured local red, Blauburgunder (Pinot noir), abound. South of the lake, rolling hills, carefully tended pastures and manicured apple orchards keep you agog. Several wild and powerful mountain chains stretch across the southern half of the cantons of St Gallen and Glarus. Peaks such as Säntis and the remote Piz Sardona attract hikers. Indeed, a dense web of walking trails is draped over these cantons. Although best known for its stinky Appenzeller cheeses, this whole arc is great for comfort eating, with such favourites as rösti and Spätzli (boiled dough balls or egg noodles) forming the basis of many hearty meat dishes – all washed down, natürlich, with Blauburgunder. HIGHLIGHTS Marvelling at the perfectly preserved medieval heart of Stein am Rhein ( p283 ), with its exquisite half-timbered houses. Lake Stein am Rhein Constance Rheinfall Standing in the middle of the Rheinfall ( p282 ), Europe’s largest waterfall. Walking to Switzerland’s highest waterfall, the Seerenbachfälle ( p293 ) from Weesen after a St Gallen slap-up lunch at the local trattoria ( p293 ). Hitting the books in St Gallen’s Stiftsbibliothek ( p288 ), a superb rococo masterpiece. Seerenbachfälle Discovering car-free Braunwald ( p294 ) in one Weesen of the country’s least-visited regions. Driving the lush green and forested route to Braunwald Gigerwaldsee and using St Martin as a base for Piz Sardona walks around the peak of Piz Sardona ( p293 ). Cycling along the castle-speckled shores of Lake Constance ( p284 ). POPULATION: 885,140 AREA: 4418 SQ KM LANGUAGE: GERMAN lonelyplanet.com NORTHEASTERN SWITZERLAND 279 NORTHEASTERN NORTHEASTERN SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND 0 20 km NORTHEASTERN SWITZERLAND 0 12 miles G E R M A N Y Ravensburg Engen G E R M A N Y Singen To Munich Überlingersee (160km) SCHAFFHAUSEN Mainau Island Klettgau Beringen Reichenau Meersburg Hallau Schaffhausen Berlingen Untersee Konstanz B31 Neunkirch Neuhausen Stein am Gottlieben (Constance) Friedrichshafen Wilchingen Diessenhofer Rhein Steckborn Osterfingen Rheinfall Kreuzlingen N13 A4 A7 Lake Constance Romanshorn (Bodensee) Lindau Frauenfeld N14 Arbon THURGAU Rorschach Bregenz Winterthur Wil Wittenbach St Margrethen A1 St Gallen Heiden Burgau Gossau Trogen To Innsbruck Flawil APPENZELL Altstätten (170km); Degersheim Gais Hohenems Salzburg Zürich A53 Herisau Stein (340km) ZÜRICH Uetliberg Appenzell Hoher Kasten Maur Urnäsch Liechtensteig Gonten (2003m) A U S T R I A Reuss St Peterzell Küsnacht Kronberg Brülisau Wattwil (1663m) Rhine Adliswil Hemberg Wasserauen Schwägalp N16 Toggenburg Seealpsee Rapperswil Säntis Ebenalp Feldkirch Bollingen (1640m) A13 Lake Zürich (2503m) (Zürichsee) Wildhaus Wädenswil Hurden ST GALLEN Lisighaus A3 Werdenberg Betlis Schaan Zug Amden Seerenbachfälle Buchs ZUG Weesen Churfirsten Vaduz Ziegelbrücke Quinten Walenstadt A14 Lake Zug Sihlsee Walensee (Zugersee) Ägerisee Niederurnen Mühlehorn Sevelen Flums LIECHTENSTEIN Filzbach Murg Näfels Mollis Lucerne Wägnalen A3 Mürschenstock Sargans See Riedern (2441) Richisau Murgsee A4 Glarus Mels Klöntaler Fronalpstock Lake Lucerne Schwyz See Bad Ragaz (Vierwaldstättersee) Schwanden (2124m) Sardona Pfäfers SCHWYZ Alp Valens Foopass Lake Uri Braunwald GLARUS St Martin Vasön A2 (Urnersee) Gigerwaldsee Tunnel Elm Sardona Linthal (3056m) N17 Altdorf NIDWALDEN GRAUBÜNDEN Chur Reuss Klausenpass Tödi To St Moritz OBWALDEN URI (3614m) Rhine (86km) Orientation & Information (for Braunwald). Alternatively, a ferry The tourist region of Ostschweiz (Eastern crosses the lake from Friedrichshafen to Switzerland) unites several easterly Romanshorn, which also has good car and Swiss cantons and Liechtenstein ( p341 ). train links. Information can be found on the pages of Several areas, such as the Bodensee region Switzerland Tourism (www.myswitzerland.com) or around Lake Constance and Appenzellerland, the official website of Ostschweiz Tourismus offer regional passes. For details, see the (http://ostschweiz.ch). Otherwise, enquire at the individual sections. St Gallen tourist office ( p287 ). Getting There & Around This area lies between Zürich and SCHAFFHAUSEN CANTON Friedrichshafen (Germany) airports and Cyclists love touring this relatively flat region can be conveniently reached from either and lower-end accommodation is booked up by public or private transport. Road and swiftly on weekends. Excellent public trans- rail link Zürich with Schaffhausen, Stein port and manageable distances make it an easy am Rhein, St Gallen and even Linthal day trip from Zürich ( p215 ), too..