TRAVEL / MEDITATION / BUDDHISM 2nd Edition The Meditator’s Companion to Pilgrimage in the Buddha’s India and Nepal Along the Path is a unique guidebook covering India and Nepal’s sacred sites; indispensable for the modern-day practitioner of the Buddha’s teachings. Along the Path: OFFERS a rich anthology of deeply inspiring stories relating to each of the pilgrimage sites connected to the Buddha’s life and teaching. PROVIDES detailed descriptions of each of the sites, including insider information on what to see and tips on transportation, accommodation and local cuisine. Kory Goldberg Goldberg Kory SUGGESTS excursions and activities in the vicinity of both ancient and modern sites. HIGHLIGHTS established Vipassana meditation centres that are best suited to accommodate visiting meditators. INCLUDES an in-depth travel section to help meditators prepare for a safe launch from home and cultivate & cultural sensibilities. Michelle Décary PRESENTS practical information with helpful maps, creative artwork and spirited narratives from experienced travellers. THE ESSENTIAL COMPANION FOR EVERY MEDITATOR VISITING INDIA AND NEPAL! Updates and resources: www.pilgrimage.pariyatti.org $21.95 US n o ti WWW.PARIYATTI.ORG Kory Goldberg & Michelle Décary di E d 2n This eBook is offered freely. If you wish, you may donate and help us continue offering our services. May you be happy! To make a donation, please visit: www.pariyatti.org PARIYATTI 867 Larmon Road Onalaska, Washington 98570 USA 360.978.4998 www.pariyatti.org Pariyatti is a nonprofit organization dedicated to enriching the world by: v Disseminating the words of the Buddha v Providing sustenance for the seeker’s journey v Illuminating the meditator’s path The Meditator's Companion to Pilgrimage in the Buddha s India and Nepal Kory Goldberg & Michelle Décary Pariyatti Press Kory Goldberg is a Humanities professor and Michelle Décary is a freelance writer, yoga teacher and organic gardener. They have been practising Vipassana meditation and travelling to the Buddha’s Land since the late 1990s. Pariyatti Press an imprint of Pariyatti Publishing 867 Larmon Road Onalaska, WA 98570 USA Tel. [+1] 360-978-4998 www.pariyatti.org © 2013 by Kory Goldberg & Michelle Décary All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any man- ner whatsoever without the written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. First Edition 2009 Second Edition 2013 ISBN: 978-1-938754-58-6 (Softcover) ISBN: 978-1-938754-56-2 (Mobi) ISBN: 978-1-938754-55-5 (ePub) ISBN: 978-1-938754-57-9 (PDF eBook) Library of Congress Control Number: 2013912884 Updates and resources: www.pilgrimage.pariyatti.org The authors wish to thank Aleksei Gomez for permission to use his illustration on the cover and title page of this book. Thanks also goes to the following artists for the images they so readily offered for use in this publication: • Lluïsot Domènech: pages 20, 22, 50, 71, 73, 122, 156 and 313. • Anita Ghanekar: pages 80 and 290. • Aleksei Gomez: also pages 103, 114, 137, 164, 248, 301 and 315. • Gary Gronokowski: page xxii. • Nik ‘the Bhik’ Halay: pages 116, 144 and 282. • Jenny Jeffs: pages 1, 88, 90, 93, 113, 143, 162, 212, 241, 278 and 366. • Michael Pancoe: pages 42, 67, 124, and 367. • Godeliève Richard: pages 3, 77, 78, 170, 313, 347 and 348. • Bjarni Wark: pages 61, 82, 135, 173 and 179. Printed in the United States of America Not all who wander are lost. – J.R.R. Tolkien n Wherever you travel in this world, Above, across, or below; Carefully examine at all times The arising and passing of all compounded things. – Gotama the Buddha Pariyatti Press Enriching the world by: • Disseminating the words of the Buddha • Providing sustenance for the seeker’s journey • Illuminating the meditator’s path vii Along the Path Contents Preface to the 2nd Edition xi Toilets & Bathrooms 74 Warnings 74 Prologue xiii Volunteer Work 77 A Note on Names, Language & References xvii Dhamma Centres 77 Acknowledgements xix Suggested Itineraries for a Dhamma Yatra 79 Introduction xxi Using this Book xxi The Middle Land (Majjhima Desa) 80 Travelling in India 1 Dhamma Art, Planning Your Journey 2 Architecture & History 81 Planning 2 Stūpas (Pagodas, Cetiyas, Chortens) 81 Choosing Your Dates 2 Temples & Monasteries 82 Seasons 3 Statues of the Buddha 82 Cheap Flights 4 Dhamma Asoka: Visas & Other Essential Documents 5 His Pillars & Policies 83 Packing 6 The Dhamma’s Decline in India 85 A Travel Routine 9 The Rediscovery of Dhamma Culture & Practice in India 86 Travelling with Friends 9 Travelling Alone 10 The Middle Land: Uttar Pradesh, Women Travellers 10 Bihar & South Nepal 88 Travelling with Kids 12 Lumbinī 91 Travelling with Pets 13 Birth of the Bodhisatta 92 Travel Insurance 13 Sleeping & Eating 96 Medications & Vaccinations 14 Coming & Going 96 You’ve landed… 15 Nepalese Kapilavatthu & Accommodations 15 Surrounding Areas 98 Food 19 Kapilavastu (Kapilavatthu) 99 Health 28 Prince Siddhattha’s First 29 Years 99 Travel: Trains, Buses, The Buddha’s Return Rickshaws, etc. 42 to the Sakyans 101 The Conscientious Meditator 56 The Kapilavatthu Debate 104 Etiquette around Monks & Nuns 58 Nepalese Kapilavatthu & Language 62 Surrounding Sites:Site-Sitting 104 Money 67 Sleeping & Eating 110 Communications 69 Coming & Going 110 Business Hours 71 Indian Kapilavatthu: Site-Sitting 111 Shopping 71 Sleeping & Eating 112 Electricity 73 Coming & Going 112 Laundry 73 viii Along the Path Bodhgayā Shravasti (Sāvatthī) 241 (Buddhagayā, Uruvelā) 113 Tales from Sāvatthī 242 The Great Awakening 114 Site-Sitting 248 Site-Sitting 121 Excursions 271 Sleeping & Eating 132 Sleeping & Eating 271 Volunteer Work in Bodhgayā 132 Coming & Going 271 Coming & Going 133 Excursions 135 Sankasya (Saṅkassa) 274 Glory of the Buddha 274 Sārnāth (Isipatana) 143 Site-Sitting 275 Turning the Wheel of Dhamma 144 Sleeping & Eating 275 Site-Sitting 150 Coming & Going 275 Sleeping & Eating 155 Sleeping & Eating 276 Coming & Going 155 Excursions 156 Mathura (Madhurā) 276 Vārāṇasī Coming & Going 277 Sleeping & Eating 159 Kushinagar (Kusinārā) 278 Coming & Going 160 The Buddha’s Last Days 279 Rajgir (Rājagaha) 162 Site-Sitting 284 Tales from Rājagaha 163 Sleeping & Eating 287 Site-Sitting 173 Sleeping & Eating 188 Excursions 189 Beyond the Coming & Going 189 Middle Land 290 Nāḷandā 194 The North: Tales from Nāḷandā 194 Delhi 291 Site-Sitting 195 Shopping, Activities, Sleeping & Eating 201 Services & Sites 291 Coming & Going 201 Sleeping & Eating 293 Coming & Going 295 Patna (Pāṭaliputta, Pāṭaligāma) 204 Excursions 297 The Importance of Ethics 204 Site-Sitting 205 McLeod Ganj (Upper Dharamsala) 299 Sleeping & Eating 207 Site-Sitting 299 Coming & Going 207 Hiking & Trekking 302 Excursions 208 Volunteering, Workshops, Vaishali (Vesālī) 212 Therapies & Sites 304 Tales from Vesālī 213 Sleeping & Eating 306 Site-Sitting 215 Coming & Going 307 Sleeping & Eating 225 Excursions 308 Coming & Going 225 Dehra Dun 309 Excursions 227 Site-Sitting 309 Kaushambi (Kosambī) 233 Excursions & Activities 310 Tales from Kosambī 233 Sleeping & Eating 310 Site-Sitting 236 Coming & Going 310 Sleeping & Eating 238 Coming & Going 238 Excursions 239 ix Along the Path Jaipur 312 Nagpur 363 Site-Sitting 312 Site-Sitting 363 Shopping & Activities 316 Sleeping & Eating 365 Sleeping & Eating 316 Coming & Going 365 Coming & Going 317 Sanchi (Sāñcī) 366 Excursions 318 Site-Sitting 367 Kathmandu 320 Sleeping & Eating 369 Site-Sitting 320 Coming & Going 369 Shopping, Activities, Excursions 370 Services & Sites 324 Sleeping & Eating 327 Kutch 371 Coming & Going 330 Site-Sitting 371 Border Crossing 331 Activities, Sites & Excursions 374 Excursions 332 Sleeping & Eating 375 Coming & Going 375 The West: Mumbai 339 The South: Tales from Mumbai 339 Hyderabad 377 Site-Sitting 341 Site-Sitting 377 Shopping, Activities, Sleeping & Eating 380 Services & Sites 342 Shopping, Activities & Sites 380 Sleeping & Eating 343 Coming & Going 381 Coming & Going 344 Nāgārjunakonda 382 Igatpuri 347 Site-Sitting 382 Site-Sitting 347 Sleeping & Eating 383 Sleeping & Eating 350 Coming & Going 383 Coming & Going 350 Kerala 384 Excursions 351 Site-Sitting 384 Ajaṇṭā, Ellora & Aurangabad 354 Sleeping & Eating 385 Ajaṇṭā Caves 354 Coming & Going 385 Ellora Caves 355 The East: Aurangabad Caves 355 Kolkata 386 Sleeping & Eating 356 Site-Sitting 386 Coming & Going 356 Activities, Sites & Volunteer Opportunities 387 Pune 358 Sleeping & Eating 390 Site-Sitting 358 Coming & Going 391 Sleeping & Eating 359 Coming & Going 360 Dhauli (Kalinga) 393 Site-Sitting 393 Karla & Bhaja Caves 361 Sleeping & Eating 393 Karla Caves 361 Coming & Going 394 Bhaja Caves 361 Sleeping & Eating 361 Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri & Udaigiri 395 Coming & Going 362 Sleeping & Eating 395 Coming & Going 395 x Along the Path Timeline of the Buddha’s Life 396 Glossary 397 Notes 404 References & Recommended Reading 414 Index 417 xi Along the Path Preface to the 2nd Edition During the winter of 2013 I received a wonderful opportunity to go on a three- week pilgrimage (while Michelle gallantly cared for our two young children) with twenty-nine experienced Vipassana meditators from twelve different countries. The aim of the tour, organized by generous and creative volunteers at Pariyatti, was to assist meditators deepen their awareness of the Dhamma in the places di- rectly connected with the life and teachings of the Buddha and his Saṅgha. In the past I had always travelled to these places on my own, with Michelle, or at most, with a handful of friends, so I was initially reluctant when Pariyatti approached me to lead the group. Despite my reservations of travelling with such a large number of people, I accepted—apprehensively. Flying to Kolkata from Bangkok while my family was escaping the Canadian winter on a sunny and pristine Thai beach, I wondered what I was getting myself into. “Why travel with strangers during my sabbatical from teaching when I could be playing beach volleyball and swimming with my children?” However, as soon as I landed on Indian soil and saw one of my khadi-dressed Indo-Canadian travel companions smiling and waving at me through the security glass, I knew I had made the right decision.