©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd New England Maine p360 Vermont p272 New Hampshire p318 Central Massachusetts Around Boston p94 & the Berkshires ^# Boston p42 p172 Connecticut Cape Cod, Nantucket p236 Rhode & Martha's Vineyard Island p126 p203 Benedict Walker, Isabel Albiston, Amy C Balfour, Robert Balkovich, Gregor Clark, Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Regis St Louis, Mara Vorhees PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to BOSTON . 42 CENTRAL New England . 4 MASSACHUSETTS & New England Map . 6 AROUND BOSTON . 94 THE BERKSHIRES . .. 172 New England’s Top 16 . 8 Central West of Boston . 97 Massachusetts . 174 Need to Know . 16 Lexington . 97 Worcester . 174 Concord . 98 Accommodations . 18 Sturbridge . 175 Lowell . 102 Pioneer Valley . 177 If You Like… . 20 North Shore . 104 Springfield . 177 Salem . 104 Month by Month . 23 Northampton . 181 Gloucester . 109 Amherst . 184 Itineraries . 26 Rockport . 113 Shelburne Falls . 186 Outdoor Activities . 34 Ipswich & Essex . 115 The Berkshires . 187 Newburyport . 116 Great Barrington Regions at a Glance . 38 South Shore . 119 & Around . 188 Quincy . 119 Stockbridge . 191 Plymouth . 120 Lee . 192 New Bedford . 124 Lenox . 193 Pittsfield . 196 CAPE COD, NANTUCKET Williamstown . 197 JOE SCHMELZER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO © PHOTO STOCK SCHMELZER/ALAMY JOE & MARTHA’S North Adams . 199 VINEYARD . 126 Mt Greylock State Cape Cod . 128 Reservation . 201 Sandwich . 128 Falmouth . 129 RHODE ISLAND . 203 Hyannis . 132 Providence . .. 206 Yarmouth . 135 Blackstone Dennis . 136 River Valley . 213 Brewster . 138 Woonsocket . 214 Harwich . 139 East Bay . 215 Bristol . 215 Chatham . 140 LOBSTER ROLL, MAINE Tiverton . 216 Orleans . 142 Little Compton . 217 Eastham . 143 Newport . 218 Wellfleet . 145 Jamestown YEVGENIA GORBULSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK © GORBULSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK YEVGENIA Truro . 147 & Conanicut Island . 226 Provincetown . 148 Southern Nantucket Rhode Island . 228 & Around . 155 Block Island . 230 Nantucket Town . 155 Siasconset . 161 South Shore . 162 CONNECTICUT . 236 Martha’s Vineyard . 163 Hartford . 237 Vineyard Haven . 165 Connecticut River Valley . 245 Oak Bluffs . 166 East Haddam . 245 Edgartown . 168 Chester . 247 West Tisbury . 170 FREEDOM TRAIL, BOSTON Essex . 247 P51 Aquinnah . 171 Contents UNDERSTAND Old Lyme . 248 Meredith . 337 New England Southeastern Squam Lake . 338 Today . 404 Connecticut . 249 Wolfeboro . 339 History . 406 New London . 249 Weirs Beach & Laconia . .. 341 Mystic . 251 White Mountains . 342 New England Stonington . .. 255 North Woodstock Literature . 415 The Quiet Corner . 256 & Lincoln . 343 Universities New Haven . 257 Kancamagus Highway . .. 346 & Colleges . 419 Gold Coast . 263 Franconia Notch Westport . 264 State Park . 347 Ridgefield . 265 Littleton & Franconia . 349 Housatonic Valley . .. 266 Mt Washington Valley . 350 SURVIVAL Candlewood Lake . .. 266 GUIDE Litchfield Hills . 267 MAINE . 360 Southern VERMONT . 272 Maine Coast . 363 Directory A–Z . 424 Southern Vermont . 274 The Yorks . 363 Transportation . 429 Ogunquit . 365 Brattleboro . 274 Index . 436 Wilmington . 277 The Kennebunks . .366 Bennington . 278 Saco Bay & Map Legend . 446 Old Orchard Beach . 368 Manchester . 282 Dorset . 285 Portland . 369 Midcoast Maine . 376 Central Vermont . 285 Brunswick . 376 Woodstock & Quechee Village . 286 Boothbay Harbor . 378 Killington Mountain . 289 Damariscotta . 379 Middlebury . 291 Pemaquid Point . 380 Mad River Valley . 294 Monhegan Island . 381 Northern Vermont . 296 Rockland . 382 Burlington . 297 Camden . 383 Stowe & Rockport . 384 Smugglers Notch . 306 Belfast . 385 Montpelier . 313 Inland Maine . 387 Northeast Kingdom . 314 Bangor . 387 Augusta . 388 NEW HAMPSHIRE . 318 Sabbathday Lake New Hampshire & Poland Spring . 389 SPECIAL Coast . 320 Down East . 390 FEATURES Portsmouth . 320 Deer Isle & Stonington . .. 390 Rye & Hampton Beach . .. 326 Mount Desert Island . 392 Accommodations . 18 Merrimack Valley . 327 Bar Harbor . 392 Concord . 327 Acadia National Park . 394 Outdoor Activities . 34 Manchester . 328 Cranberry Isles . 396 Monadnock Region . 330 Machias Bay Area . .398 New England Upper Connecticut Western Maine . 399 Literature . 415 Bethel . .. 399 River Valley . 334 Universities Hanover . 334 Rangeley Lake . 400 & Colleges . 419 Lakes Region . .. 336 North Maine Woods . 401 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26 JOE DUBE/500PX © JOE DUBE/500PX Plan Your Trip Itineraries É VERMONT Searsport •# Bar •#Harbor ÷# MAINE Camden•# Penobscot Acadia Bay National Damariscotta •# Park •# É Rockland É •# Boothbay Harbor NEW •# Portland HAMPSHIRE É •#Portsmouth Gulf of Maine Ù#Hampton Beach É Ipswich •# •# Essex •# •# Rockport Salem•# Gloucester •# MASSACHUSETTS É Marblehead •#Boston Stellwagen Bank 2 WEEKS Coastal New England Continue northward to Marblehead New England is intrinsically tied to the and Salem, both rich in maritime history. sea – historically, commercially and Don’t miss the Peabody Essex Museum and emotionally. To see this connection its wonderful maritime exhibit. To glimpse firsthand, follow the coastline. New England’s fishing industry at work – and to sample its culinary treats – journey Start in Boston, whose long-standing con- to Gloucester. This is also your jumping- nection to the sea is reflected in a host of off point for a whale-watching cruise to waterfront attractions. Follow the Harbor- Stellwagen Bank. Walk along the water’s edge from Chris- Circle around Cape Ann to discover the topher Columbus Park, stopping at the charms of and the mysteries of New England Aquarium and the Institute Rockport Dogtown. Then continue up the coast to for Contemporary Art. The following day, frolic in the waves at Crane Beach in board a ferry to the Harbor Islands. Ip­ swich and feast on fried clams in Essex. 27 PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES Portland Head Light (p369) The New Hampshire coast is scant, Don’t miss a stop in pretty Camden but not without merit: walk Hamp­ or artsy Rockland, where you can take ton Beach’s boardwalk and admire a windjammer cruise up the rocky coast. the Colonial- era homes in historic When you return to dry land, clamber to Portsmouth . the top of Mt Battie in Camden Hills State Continuing into Maine, spend a day or Park for sweeping Penobscot Bay views, or continue north to , home of the two exploring . Eat, drink and Searsport Portland wonderful Penobscot Marine Museum. shop in the Old Port District and check out the Portland Museum of Art. Don’t leave End in Bar Harbor and Acadia town without snapping a photo of the Port- National Park: highlights of the New land Head Light on Cape Elizabeth. Con- England coast. You’ll have no problem occu- tinuing northeast, stop for a seafood lunch pying yourself for a weekend or a week, ex- and a stroll around lovely (but crowded) ploring Mount Desert Island’s scenery while Boothbay Harbor, or opt for oysters and hiking, biking, kayaking and camping. For bookstore browsing in Damariscotta. a delicious detour, head to Thurston’s Lob- ster Pound overlooking Bass Harbor. 28 PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES Burlington •# É Bretton Woods Lake •#RMt Washington Champlain Crawford Notch÷# State Park •# North Conway VERMONT É Lakes Region MAINE NEW YORK NEW HAMPSHIRE Mt EquinoxR•# Manchester É r e v AT L A N T I C i •# Bennington R O C E A N n o •# s Williamstown d u H Lenox •# ÷# October Mountain •# Stockbridge State Forest MASSACHUSETTS •# Great Cape Cod Barrington É Housatonic Meadows State Park ÷# RHODE •# Kent CONNECTICUT ISLAND 29 DENISTANGNEYJR/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES DENISTANGNEYJR/GETTY 10 Fall DAYS Foliage The brilliance of fall in New England is PLAN YOUR TRIP legendary. Scarlet and sugar maples, ash, birch, beech, dogwood, tulip tree, oak and sassafras all contribute to the carnival of autumn color. Start in Connecticut’s Kent. Hike up Cobble Mountain in Macedonia Brook State Park for views of the forested hills against a backdrop of IT I the Taconic and Catskill mountain ranges. Head- NERAR ing north on Rte 7, stop at Housatonic Mead­ ows State Park to snap a photo of the Cornwall I Bridge, then continue into Massachusetts. ES Blanketing the westernmost part of the state, the rounded mountains of the Berkshires start turning crimson and gold as early as mid- September. Set up camp in Great Barrington, a formerly industrial town now populated with art galleries and upscale restaurants. It’s a good base for exploring October Mountain State Forest, a multicolored tapestry of hemlocks, birches and oaks. This reserve’s name – attrib- uted to Herman Melville – gives a good indica- tion of when this park is at its loveliest. Cruising north from Great Barrington, you’ll pass through the Berkshires’ most charming towns: Stockbridge, Lenox and Williams­ town. Stop for a few hours or a few days for JACOBS STOCK PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY STOCK JACOBS fine dining, shopping and cultural offerings. Dedicate at least one day to exploring Mt Greylock State Reservation: the summit offers a panorama stretching up to 100 miles across more than five states. Cross into Vermont and continue north through the historic villages of Bennington and Manchester. For fall foliage views head to the top of Mt Equinox, where the 360-degree panorama includes the Adirondacks and the lush Battenkill Valley. Continue north to Burlington, your base for frolicking on Lake Champlain, and sail away on a schooner for offshore foliage views. Head southeast through Montpelier and con- tinue into New Hampshire. Your destination is Bretton Woods, where you can admire the foli- age from the porch of the historic