LATIMES.COM/TRAVEL SUNDAY,OCTOBER 25, 2015 L5 MEXICO See (sip), learn (sip), enjoy (sip) The tequila trail leads to Jalisco state and a course in production, history, culture and, of course, tasting. By Alex Pulaski GUADALAJARA, Mexico—As Bordeaux is to France and Porto is to Portugal, Tequila is to Mexico: both a libation and a destination. But not just anywhere in Mexi- co. The wellspring of tequila pro- duction is in the west-central state of Jalisco, home to Mexico’s sec- ond-largest city, Guadalajara, as well as the nearby town of Tequila. U.S. tequila sales have doubled in the last decade, and the spirit’s growing popularity prompted my wife and me to set out in January to trace the river back to its source. During a long weekend, our guide, Mexico City-based Clayton Szczech(sounds like “check”) shepherded us through a crash course in tequila production tech- niques, tasting, history and cul- ture. Intermingled with forays for shopping, art and architecture, we visited bars and bottle shops, tast- ing rooms and fields. We stumbled across tequila tributaries even when we weren’t looking for them: borrachitos (milk candies flavored with tequila) in the gigantic San Juan de Dios market; hand-blown Dama Juana glass bottles de- Alex Pulaski signed to transport tequila; small CLAYTON SZCZECH explains the agave harvest in Tequila, Mexico. Only mezcal made from We ber blue agave can be called tequila. sponges made from agave fiber in the Tonalá shopping area; and, blue agave can be called tequila. We passed most of our second about 65 cents) to see tequila-mak- pits, fermentation tanks and a bus- resting against a wall in the Palacio After a brief afternoon intro- day shopping in and around Gua- ing artifacts and spend a couple tling bottling room. de Gobierno, a 2-ton volcanic stone duction to tequila tasting, followed dalajara, leaving our final day for hours at the small-scale Tequila Then into underground caves, wheel known as a tahona, its edges by a shopping break, Szczech took Tequila itself, about an hour’s drive Fortalezadistillery. where tequila hibernates in bar- worn from years of crushing me to Mezonte(www.mezonte northwest. Fortaleza relies on old-world rels. We sipped and listened as cooked agave to release the juices. .com), an appointment-only mez- It’s a company town — Jose production methods such as using Szczech poured at a bar set inside “This is the house that tequila cal tasting room. There, sur- Cuervo — and at Mundo Cuervo, stone tahonas to crush the agave the cave. built,” Szczech told us, introducing rounded by photos of small-scale you have your choice of group tours and not modern mechanical roll- In the dim lighting, as the spirit the government palace, finished in family producers, owner Pedro Ji- (charges apply) and can browse ers. We watched a laborer — a jima- warmed us, it felt almost as if the late 1700s in part from taxes on menez led a discussion that was as the giant gift shop. dor — harvest an agave plant and Szczech were holding service in te- agave-based liquors known as mez- much about the individuals mak- Instead, we took a road less rapidly strip its leaves, and we me- quila church. cales. Tequila is a mezcal, but only ing the spirits and their growing re- traveled, visiting the Museo los andered through production areas amezcal made from the Weber gions as the drink itself. Abuelos (admission 10 pesos, filled with boilers, copper stills, [email protected] Los Angeles Hold the lime, the salt, the shot glass UNTIED STATES MEXICO Gulf of tion to tequila, which transpired Now, with the palate’s scream- the barrel. Mexico Pacific Detailed Tequila, from blanco to within the nearly 10 0-year-old con- ing done, you can begin to taste the Regardless of which pleases Ocean Mexico fines of Cantina la Fuentein down- flavors of different types of tequila, your palate, Szczech said, don’t fall City extra añejo, is best sipped town Guadalajara. i had downed starting with the blancos (whites) into the all-too-common trap of 500 MILES like a wine to appreciate plenty of margaritas before, and —the purest expression of the dis- numbing the mouth with salt and the occasional — and, for me, tiller’s art. Szczech prefers lime, then slamming down a fiery the flavor, savor the terroir. wholly unpleasant — shot of te- blancos, which are not barrel-aged. shot. Tequila quila, but Szczech had promised to “You can hide flaws in a barrel,” “Tequila is best treated and Guadalajara By Alex Pulaski 15D grant me a lesson in and an appre- he said. Blancos are also known as thought of like wine, because wine 80D Tonalá ciation for the spirit, distilled from plata, or silver, tequilas. expresses terroir,” he said, refer- GUADALAJARA, Mexico — the Weber blue agave. Next come reposados, or rested ring to the unique combinations of Tlaquepaque “The first taste is to warm you up,” Go slowly, he said. On the sec- tequilas, whose golden color hints geology, climate and geography 15D tequila guide Clayton Szczech told ond sip, hold your breath and let at the wood barrel-aging process of that lend wines their characteris- me. “Let it wash out your mouth. the tequila coast over your tongue, at least two months. tics. It’s like stretching your muscles — back and forth. Then swallow and Finally, the aged añejos and “If you don’t want to taste it, 20 MILES Lake Chapala not always entirely pleasant, but exhale. That burning sensation is even extra añejos, which take on why are you drinking it?” necessary.” your mouth dispatching an initial smoothness, complexity and Sources: Mapbox, OpenStreetMap So began my official introduc- panic signal to the brain. darker hues as they stay longer in [email protected] Lou Spirito Los Angeles Times Goat stew, mariachis and powdery spells If you go THE BEST WAY TO The shops in Tonalá, unlike GUADALAJARA, MEXICO The variety seems all but most street stalls, carry a variety of From LAX, Aeroméxico, American, merchandise, from blown glass to Alaska, United and Delta offer endless in the markets and intricate tile to fine furniture. nonstop service to Guadalajara, and Aeroméxico, United, Delta and Acouple of our instant favorites shops of Guadalajara. American offer connecting service were the Cristacolor glass-blowing (change of planes). Restricted By Alex Pulaski works (www.cristacolor.com.mx), round-trip fares begin at $326, where we watched orange blobs of including taxes and fees. molten glass being transformed GUADALAJARA, Mexico—As into peacock shapes, and Forja Es- TEQUILA GUIDE Mexico’s handicrafts capital, Gua- pañola (www.forjaespanola.com), Experience Tequila, (503) dalajara and its environs dangle populated by fantastically shaped 922-1774, www.experience seemingly endless shopping pos- metal sculptures and brightly tequila.com.Clayton Szczech, a sibilities. painted furniture. self-styled tequila evangelist, High-toned Tlaquepaque and Allow an afternoon or more to offers tours, tastings and events. more down-to-earth Tonalá de- explore Tlaquepaque, where shops Four-daypackage tours (not servedly dominate the shopping —and prices — aim higher than in including airfare) start at $1,255 marquee, but to immerse yourself Tonalá. Goods range from a $5 per person. in Guadalajara and Mexico itself, bracelet to a $2,300 granite-topped direct your first steps to Mercado bar. When you need a break, listen WHERE TO SLEEP Libertad. The three-story market- to mariachi bands — Jalisco state Villa Ganz Boutique Hotel, 1739 place is better known as San Juan is the birthplace of mariachi music Lopez Cotilla, Guadalajara; (877) 232-2218, www.en.villaganz.com. de Dios for the neighborhood and —at the garden courtyard known Like staying in a mansion — which Alex Pulaski the church of the same name. as El Parián. it was. Rates from about $99 a With more than 2,600 stalls OH, THE POSSIBILITIES: Get your shopping feet wet in Gua- Steer clear of the food and night. wedged into nearly half a million dalajara’s Mercado Libertad, which has more than 2,600 stalls. mixed drinks there, however; they square feet, San Juan de Dios con- tend to be overpriced and under- WHERE TO EAT tains a dizzying array of merchan- “Uvas, uvas,” a vendor intoned, even hate. whelming. Along Calle Indepen- La Tequila, 2830 Avenida Mexico, dise, fruit, vegetables and pre- advertising grapes above the chat- We began with market day in dencia areseveral worthy restau- Colonia Terranova, Guadalajara; pared foods. A goat skull signifies tering of caged songbirds. Other Tonalá on a Sunday (it also falls on rants, among them Casa Fuerte 011-52-333-640-3440, www.la that birria is bubbling in a pot, or stalls sold sugar cane, candy, or- Thursdays). In retrospect, based and Casa Luna, both set in court- tequila.com/eng.html.This upscale try a regional specialty known as a nate belts and buckles, pottery, on the poor-quality merchandise yards graced by trees and a foun- restaurant serves tequilas by the torta ahogada — literally a brightly woven fabrics, even spells, in street stalls and the pressing tain. dozens.Main dishes about $12. “drowned sandwich” swimming in in powder form, promising potent crowds, I’d recommend any day atomato broth. doses of steady work,money or but the two market days. [email protected] Casa Luna, 211Independencia, Colonia Centro, Tlaquepaque; 011-52-331-592-2061. Prices are high by Mexico standards, but the passion fruit margaritas are A plaster canvas for muralist’s fury and genius intoxicating in more ways than one.