THE CUBAN RECIPE FOR FOOD SOVEREIGNTY Investigating the contextual variables that shape Cuba’s cuisine and food culture by Courtney Law Submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts at Dalhousie University Halifax, Nova Scotia December 2020 © Copyright by Courtney Law, 2020 TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES .......................................................................................................................................iv ABSTRACT ................................................................................................................................................... v LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS USED ..........................................................................................................vi ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ....................................................................................................................... vii CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................ 1 1.1 PRACTICAL PROBLEM .................................................................................................................. 4 1.2 RESEARCH QUESTION .................................................................................................................. 5 1.3 RESEARCH PROBLEM ................................................................................................................... 6 1.4 THESIS STATEMENT ....................................................................................................................... 7 1.5 BACKGROUND.................................................................................................................................. 9 1.6 THESIS OUTLINE ........................................................................................................................... 23 CHAPTER 2: LITERATURE REVIEW .................................................................................................. 24 2.1 LITERATURE REVIEW ................................................................................................................. 24 2.1.1 Food Regimes .............................................................................................................................. 24 2.1.2 Food Sovereignty ......................................................................................................................... 26 2.1.3 Slow Food .................................................................................................................................... 29 2.1.4 Tourism and Gastronomy ............................................................................................................ 31 2.2 THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK ................................................................................................... 32 CHAPTER 3: METHODS .......................................................................................................................... 35 3.1 FIELDWORK IN HAVANA ............................................................................................................ 35 3.2 QUALITATIVE METHODS ........................................................................................................... 36 3.2.1 Participant Observation .............................................................................................................. 36 3.2.2 Semi-Structured and Unstructured Interviews ............................................................................ 37 3.2.3 Document Review ........................................................................................................................ 41 CHAPTER 4: FINDINGS ........................................................................................................................... 43 4.1 TRADITION ...................................................................................................................................... 43 4.2 KEY INGREDIENTS ....................................................................................................................... 46 4.2.1 Animal Products .......................................................................................................................... 47 4.2.2 Produce ....................................................................................................................................... 50 4.2.3 Processed Foods .......................................................................................................................... 53 4.3 FOOD ACQUISITION IN HAVANA .............................................................................................. 54 4.4 TOURISM .......................................................................................................................................... 58 ii CHAPTER 5: DISCUSSION ...................................................................................................................... 62 5.1 SLOW FOOD & FOOD SOVEREIGNTY CUISINE ANALYSIS ................................................ 63 5.1.1 Ajiaco (Stew) ............................................................................................................................... 64 5.1.2 Ropa Vieja (Shredded Beef Dish) ................................................................................................ 65 5.1.3 Congrí (Rice and Beans) ............................................................................................................. 67 5.1.4 Casabe (Cassava Bread) ............................................................................................................. 68 5.1.5 Arroz con Pollo (Rice with Chicken) ........................................................................................... 69 5.1.6 Arroz con Huevo Frito (Rice with Fried Egg) ............................................................................. 70 5.1.7 Tostones, Frituras de Malanga, Frituras de Maíz (Twice-Fried Plantains, Fritters) ................. 70 5.1.8 Pizza Cubana (Cuban Pizza) ....................................................................................................... 71 5.2 FOOD REGIMES .............................................................................................................................. 73 5.3 TOURISM .......................................................................................................................................... 74 5.4 SUSTAINABILITY ........................................................................................................................... 77 5.5 LIMITATIONS OF THE STUDY .................................................................................................... 81 CHAPTER 6: CONCLUSION ................................................................................................................... 83 6.1 REFLECTIONS FROM THE FIELD ............................................................................................. 87 6.2 RECOMMENDATIONS FOR FURTHER RESEARCH .............................................................. 87 6.3 CONCLUSION .................................................................................................................................. 89 REFERENCES ............................................................................................................................................ 90 iii LIST OF TABLES Table 1: List of Interviews ............................................................................................................. 40 Table 2: Cookbook Titles, Descriptions, and Origins .................................................................... 41 iv ABSTRACT This thesis investigates the linkages and contradictions between Food Sovereignty and Slow Food’s principles within Cuba. The Cuban food system is influenced by external factors including the US embargo, broader international connections, and the tourism industry. This study analyzes the acquisition, preparation, and consumption of food in Havana to understand how food regimes impact everyday life for Habaneros. The key question of this thesis asks, how are Food Sovereignty and Slow Food principles reflected through formal and informal culinary practices in Cuba? This study also asks, how has tourism influenced Cuban cuisine and the Cuban food system? Furthermore, how have food regimes and sanctions influenced Cuban recipes in Havana? Methods include participant observation, semi-structured interviews, and document review. This thesis argues that Cuban culinary practices and recipes demonstrate cultural and social perseverance against economic hardship as a result of Cuba’s centralized food system and the Cuban people’s adaptability. v LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS USED ANAP— National Association of Small Farmers COMECON— Soviet Council for Mutual Economic Assistance CFS—UN Committee on World Food Security CPE— Cultural Political Economy CS— Consumer Sovereignty CUP— Cuban Peso CUC— Cuban Convertible Peso FACRC— Federation of Culinary Associations of the Republic of Cuba FLACSO— Latin American Faculty of Social Sciences GNAU— National Group of Urban Agriculture HLPE—The High Level Panel of Experts on Food Security and Nutrition REB— Social Sciences and Humanities Research Ethics Board at Dalhousie University TSRA— Trade Sanctions Reform and Export Enhancement Act UBPC— Basic Units of Cooperative Production USD— US Dollar vi ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I want to thank my thesis advisor