NARRATIVE A TOUR THROUGH ARMENIA, KUEDISTAN, PERSIA, MESOPOTAMIA. OBSERVATIONS ON THE CONDITION OP MOHAMMEDANISM AND CHRISTLVNITY IN THOSE COUNTRIES. Br THE Rev. HORATIO SOUTHGATE. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. 11. r a S^ PJinSIAN MUSHT£Ii£D. LONDON: TILT AND BOGUE, 86, FLEET STREET. D. APPLETON AND CO., NEW YORK. MDCCCXL. LONDON : BBADBUHy AND EVAN8, PRfNTBRS, WHITEFHrAR&. NARRATIVE A TOUR THROUGH ARMENIA, KURDISTAN, PERSIA, AND MESOPOTAMIA. OBSERVATIONS ON THE CONDITION OP MOHAMMEDANISM AND CHRISTLVNITY IN THOSE COUNTRIES. By the Rev. HORATIO SOUTHGATE. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: TILT AND BOGUE, 86, FLEET STREET. D. APPLETON AND CO., NEW YORK. MDCCCXL. ^ntmlf at gitattom^' ^aH. LONDON : BRADBURY ANO EVANS, riUNTlSRB, TV'UITSFKIARS. CONTENTS OF VOLUME SECOND. CHAPTER I. TEBRIZ. PAGE ANTiqUITY OF THE CITY CLIMATE POSITION GAUDENS MY HOUSE PRESENT AND PAST CONDITION OF THE CITY COMPARED REMAINS ARSENALSHAWL MANUFAOTURERS^TIIE TURKISH OP PERSIA GERMAN MISSIONARIES THEIR SYSTEM OF OPERATIONS PERSIAN AFFABILITY QUALIFICATIONS ..... 1 II TEBRIZ. FOREIGNERS IN THE CITY EUROPEAN TRADE PROVINCE OF ADERBEIJAN ARMY DESERTIONS EUROPEAN COSTUME A PERSIAN PRINCE INTER¬ VIEW WITH HIM . HIS TEACHER ANOTHER STORY THE TRUTH EXCITABILITY OF THE PERSIANS ILLUSTRATION INTEMPERATE AND DISHONEST SERVANT PERSIAN MORALITY CHARACTER OP PERSIAN SERVANTS HOUSES, STREETS, AND BAZARS OF TEBRIZ ITS JIUSSULMANS WINE-DRINKING MOHAJIMEDAN PREACHING THE MUSHTEHED . 11 III.JOURNEY FROM TEBRIZ TO MIANEH. CONSIDERATION OF PLANS DECISION DEPARTURE FROM TEBRIZ FIRST day's JOURNEY POTATOES CARAVANSERAI PERSIAN FONDNESS FOR PILGRIMAGES VILLAGE SCENES VILLAGE FARE TURKISH AND PERSIAN VILLAGES COMPARED RIVERS ANCIENT REMAINS AT DIKMETASH CARAVANSERAIS ROUTE OF THE GREAT PILGRIMAGE PERSIAN STREAMS PERSIAN SCHOOLS ^LIAUIS RICE-FIELDS . 25 1V._MIANEH AND THE KOFLAN KOH. MIANEHVENOMOUS INSECT VALLEY OF JIIANEH KOFLAN KOH-r-THE maiden's tower KURDS SINGULAR COUNTRY PERSIAN VICES REMEDY THEORY OF MISSIONARY LABOUR AMONG THE PERSIANS OUR DUTY TO THE EASTERN CHURCHES . .34 '^'1 CONTENTS. v.JOURNEY FROM THE KOFLAN KOH TO KAZVIN. ^^°^ VALLEY OF THE ZENJAN RIVER THE KHANBARBARITIES OP THE PERSIAN SOLDIERY MODE OP IRRIGATIONHAPPY PEASANTSZENJANDOMESTIC TROUBLESPLAIN OF SULTANIEHREMAINS AT SULTANIEIITROUBLE IN A PERSIAN VILLAGE PILGRIMSPERSIAN PILGRIJIAGE 10 MECCA THE MOLLAII PASTORAL LIFE IN THE EAST MOURNING AT GRAVESAP¬ PROACH TO KAZVIN 41 VI.KAZVIN. SITUATIONINTERIOR THE PEOPLE MEDRESSEHSRUINED PALACE- LANGUAGE STORY-TELLERPERSIAN DERVISHESTHE YOUNG DERVISH TRAVELLING TURKSTHEIR OPINIONS CONCERNING PERSIA PREVA¬ LENCE OP LYING AMONG THE PERSIANSTESTIMONY OF HERODOTUS- MY OWN IMPRESSIONSILLUSTRATIONSDECEPTION PRACTISED ON A FOREIGNER SOURCE OF THE VICE . _ g2 VII._JOURNEY TO TEHRAN. THE CAPITAL. LEAVE KAZVINGRAPES AND WINETHE PLAINCAMELS AND HORSES A VILLAGEMODE OF IRRIGATIONFEVERSTHE PLAIN OP TEHRAN ROYAL PROJECTS ROUTE PERSIAN PRESENTSFIRST VIEW OF TEHRAN RECEPTION AT THE CAPITAL LANGUAGESORIGIN OF TEHRAN- DESCRIPTION OF THE CITYAMBASSADORS' RESIDENCESTHE ROYAL PALACE DESCRIPTION OP ITS PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS AND COURTS- POPULATION OF THE CITYENGLISH RESIDENTSFEVERTHE POST- RUINS OP RHEY . 62 VIII.THE SHAH. EXPEDITION TO HERATASSAULT UPON THE TURCOMANSORIGIN OP THE PRESENT DYNASTYTHE LATE SHAHTHE PRESENT SHAH's ACCESSION TO THE THRONE HIS CHARACTER AND VIEWSPOLITICAL STATE OF PERSIA THE ARMY REFORMS 7G IX.JOURNEY FROM TEHRAN TO HAMADAN. RULES AND PRINCIPLES OF EXPLORATION FRIDAY ITS OBSERVANCE BY MOHAMMEDANS SERVICES OF THE DAY HOW ESTEEMED BY PERSIANS THE TRUE IDEA OF THE WORSHIP OF FRIDAYSINGULAR CHANGE IN CONSTANTINOPLE DEPARTURE FROM TEHRAN PLAIN VILLAGE- DESERT SUNDAY-LODGINGS MOUNTAINS DEMAVEND MOUNTAIN- PASSAGE DOMESTIC LIFE IN A PERSIAN VILLAGE SKETCH OF THE CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF THE PERSIAN PEASANTRY TAKING NOTES WEARISOJIE JOURNEY APPROACH TO IIAMADAN . §5 X.HAMADAN. LODGINGSDESCRIPTION OF THE CITY TRADE JEWS THEIR CONDITIONVISIT TO THE TOMB OF MORDECAI AND ESTHER- TROUBLES OCCASIONED BY MY FOREIGN DRESSMOUNT ELVENDCLIMATE MOSQUES-ANTIQUITIES OP HAMADANLIFE AMONG PERSIAN PILGRIMS STATE OF MOHAMMEDANISM IN THESE REGIONSDIFFICULTIES IN LEAVING TREACHERY OF MULETEERS . IQO CONTENTS. VII PAGE XLJOURNEY FROM HAMADAN TO KERMANSHAH. LEAVE HAMADAN ROYAL TRAVELLERSSICK SERVANT MOUNTAIN PAS¬ SAGE PLAIN OF SADABAD KENGIIEVAR ANCIENT REMAINS ILLNESS OF OUR PARTY KURDISH WOMEN THE VALE OF BISITOUN SINGULAR PEAK ANTIQUITIESINCREASED ILLNESS ARRIVAL AT KERMANSHAH 115 XII.KERMANSII AH. EMBARRASSMENTS INHOSPITABLE MUSSULJIANS FUNDS EXHAUSTED RELIEF BY A LETTER THE FIRE-WORSHIPPER HIS KINDNESS CHANGE OF LODGINGS ARMENIAN HOUSEHOLD-PIRE-WOnSHIPPERS IN PERSIA LOSS OF MY ATTENDANT RENEWED DIFFICULTIES FINAL ARRANGE¬ MENTS ..... ... 124 XIIIJOURNEY FROM KERMANSHAH TO THE BORDER OF TURKEY. DESCRIPTION OF KERMANSHAH PERSIAN FASTS AND FEASTS ^THE NEW year's festival COMMEMORATION OF THE DEATH OF HOSSElN DEPAR¬ TURE FIRST VILLAGE KURDISH FA^IILY WILD SHRUBS KURDISH HOSTESS CHANGE OF COURSE IN A STABLESTRANGE PEOPLE THEIR RELIGIONTHE MEDIAN GATESCHANGE OP CLIMATE PERSIAN EXPEDITION RUINS A TURK EMIGRATING KURDS THE DATE-TREE- THE BOUNDARY ... 134 XIV.JOURNEY TO BAGDAD. RETROSPECT SOOFFEEISM THE TERM DEFINED GENERAL IDEA OP THE PHILOSOPHY PRACTICAL RESULTS OP THE SYSTEM STRENGTH OP THE SECT PERSIAN LIBERALITY VILLAGES BETWEEN KERMANSHAH AND BAGDAD PACE OF THE COUNTRY UNWELCOME ENCOUNTER NEW TROUBLES CARAVAN TRAVELLING SLEEPING ON HORSEBACK THE DIALA FERRY THE MIRAGE ARRIVAL AT UAGDAD . 149 XV.BAGDAD. RECEPTION EUROPEAN SOCIETY ISLA:\1ISM IN BAGDAD ANCIENT AND MODERN STATE CONTRASTED THE FOUR SECTS OF THE SUNNITES SHIAHS THEIR PLACES OF PILGRIMAGE DERVISHES THEIR ORIGIN CON¬ VENTS DRESS WORSHIP THE PERFORMANCES OF ONE OP THE ORDERS AT BAGDAD IMMORAL CHARACTER OF S05IE OF THE ORDERS GENERALLY HOW REGARDED WANDERING DERVISHES POSITION OF BAGDAD TOMB OP ZOBEIDE DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY THE PEOPLE RECENT RE¬ VERSES ........ 162 XVI.BAGDAD. POPULATION EXPLANATION OF NATIONAL AND ECCLESIASTICAL NAMES THE CHRISTIANS OP BAGDAD PATRIARCHS DIVISION OF THE NESTORIAN CHURCH JEWS LANGUAGES OF BAGDAD BOOK-STALLS CLIMATE PRODUCTIONS GARDEN OF THE BRITISH RESIDENCY COMMUNICATION WITH EUROPE EUPHRATES EXPEDIIIO.N TRADE OF BAGDAD RIVER BOATS CIRCULAR BOATS THE TIGRIS THE PROVINCIAL GOVERNMENT- BANISHMENT OF PASHAS WAHABEES MY ATTENDANT NEW ARRANGE¬ MENT TATARS CHANGE OF DRESS . '. 178 Vlll CONTENTS. XVII.-JOURNEY FROM BAGDAD TO KERKUK. '"'""' DEPARTURE FROM BAGDADLETTERS -THE DESERTBOUiOUROULTOU CANALSKHAN IN THE DESERTTHE SOILTHE HAMRIN HILLS-KARA TEPEH-CHALDEAN MUSSULMANSKIFRITURKISH COURT OF JUSTICE- THE POSITION OF WOMAN UNDER MOHAMMEDANISMINSTITUTIONS OF THE KORANTHE MORAL STATION OF THE TURKISH FEMAiEHER RELI¬ GIOUS PRIVILEGES AND DUTIESTATARSWANDERING DERVISHTOUZ KHOURMATEUMANUFACTURE OF SALTANTELOPESTAOUKSITE OP AN ANCIENT CITYNAPHTHA, A SUBSTITUTE FOR CANDLES . 194 XVIII.-JOURNEY FROM KERKUK TO MOSSOUL. KERKUK ARTIFICIAL MOUNDS SULPHUR HOLES BITUMEN WELLS ALTEUN KEUPRU KURDISH VILLAGE LAWLESS SOLDIERY CITY OF ARBELA DAY IN A CHALDEAN VILLAGE PATIENTS NIGHT IN THE VILLAGEAGRICULTURE FORDING THE ZABRAFTS SCENE OF THE BATTLE BETWEEN ALEXANDER AND DARIUS SYRIAN VILLAGE COUNTRY BETWEEN THE ZAB AND TIGRIS-RUINS OF NINEVEHCROSSING TIGRISARRIVAL AT MOSSOUL . , _ 208 XIX.-THE CHALDEAN CHURCH. SUBJECT PROPOSEDCOMMENCEMENT OP THE PAPAL MISSIONS IN MESOPO¬ TAMIA PRINCIPLE OF THE MISSIONSACTUAL MODE OP OPERATIONINTERFERENCE WITH THE PATRIARCHAL OFFICEDEFEC¬ TION OF THE PATRIARCH-CONSEQUENCESVIOLENT MEASURES OF THE MISSIONARIESBITTER CONTENTIONSSETTLEMENT OP DIFFERENCES- DEFECTION OF THE CHURCH-ITS NATURE AND EXTENT-CHANGES TRACED AND ENUMERATEDTHE LITURGYCONFESSIONHOLY WATER OF THE CROSSPURGATORY-TIIE COMMUNION SERVICEBAPTISM- SACRA¬ MENTSTHE MINISTRYPICTURE-WORSHIPTHE VIRGIN MARYINTRO¬ DUCTION OP ROMISH BOOKSTHE SACRED SCRIPTURES CONCLUSION . 221 XX.MOSSOUL. SITUATION LEGENDSULPHUR-SPRINGSMARBLE QUARRIESVISITATION OP THE PLAGUE TRADEMANUFACTURERIVER-TRADECLIMATE- CUSTOMS OP THE PEOPLETHE GOVERNMENT OF THE CITYINSURREC¬ TIONS AND CHANGESINTRODUCTION OF REFORMSLANGUAGESRELA¬ TIONS OP THE CIIALDAIC AND SYRIAC CORRUPTIONS OF THE CHALDAIC THE LANGUAGE OP THE PEOPLESCHOOLSRELIGIOUS STATE OF THE CHALDEANS 236 XXLMOSSOUL, CONVENTSRABBAN HORMUZDVILLAGE OP AL KOSHCONVENT OP ST MATTHEWST. GEORGE ST. ELIAS- CHALDEAN CHURCHES IN MOSSOUL HOSTMUSSULMANS OF MOSSOULMEDRESSEHS AND MOSQUES- NOVEL CUSTOMINTIMACY BETWEEN CHRISTIANS AND MOHAMMEDANS INSTANCESSUPERIOR CHARACTER OP THE CHRISTIANSPREPARATIONS FOE DEPARTUREINCIDENT ON THE ROAD FROM BAGDADAPPRE¬ HENSIONS OF DANGER-THE TATAR'S PEEPAR,lTION- ABLUTION BEFORE "xvAx£a 248 CONTENTS. ^"'^ PAGE XXILJOURNEY FROM MOSSOUL TO MARDIN. FAREWELL TO MY HOSTOUR GUARDCONVERSATION WITH THE TATAR'S SONREGARD OF MOHAMMEDANS FOR THE MESSIAHMISCONCEPTIONS RESPECTING HIS DIVINITY THE DOCTRINE OF A TRINITY NOT OFFENSIVE TO MUSSULMANSDOCTRINE OF THE KORAN RESPECTING THE MESSIAH DESERT TRAVELLING NIGHT IN THE DESERT SECOND DAY'S JOURNEY THE SINJAB MOUNTAINSFACE OF THE DESERTSTATION OP SOLDIERS OF TURKS AND PERSIANSTHIRD DAY'S JOURNEY MORE POPULOUS REGIONTHE CHARACTER OF ITS PEOPLE CHANGE IN ITS GOVERNMENTTHE TOUR MOUNTAINS-PRINCIPAL SEAT OF THE JACOBITE POPULATION THE ANCIENT NISIBISCHURCH OF ST. JAMES PLAN OP A NEW CITY THE PASHA OF THE PROVINCE ANCIENT KHAN SCENE AT SUNSET PLUNDERING ARABS DEXTERITY OF A YEZIDEE DARA APPROACH TO MARDIN VIEW OF THE CITY ARRIVAL . 2d8 XXIILMARDIN. SITUATION AND DESCRIPTION OF MARDINPOPULATIONTHE CHRISTIANS MARDIN THE CENTRE OP THE JACOBITE POPULATION-CHANGES IN