Bulgaria in Summer Naturetrek Tour Report 27 July - 3 August 2013 Catocala sponsa - Dark Crimson Underwing Moth Graphosoma semipunctatum - shieldbug species Nucifraga caryocataractes - Nutcracker Cyrtopodion kotschyi bibroni - Kotschy's Gecko Report and images by Alan Outen Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Bulgaria in Summer Tour participants: Alan Outen (botanist and general naturalist) and local guides Mario Langourov (entomologist) and Dancho Koutsarov (ornithologist and dragonfly specialist) together With eleven Naturetrek clients Summary During the course of just a week we enjoyed superb scenery, a wonderful range of wildlife and splendid hospitality. We had seen an incredible total of 928 identified species (a record for this tour) including 390 higher plants and 371 invertebrate species, of which a superb 110 were butterflies (tour record) and 73 moths (tour record) as well as 35 dragonflies (another tour record), 36 bugs, 29 beetles etc. It is always difficult to find birds on this tour, being rather late in the season. The extremely high temperatures at the start of the week did not help as birds sort cover, but we nonetheless managed a creditable total of 97 species, including some not often seen on this tour. Day 1 Saturday 27th July Fly Heathrow to Sofia; drive to Melnik Sunny on arrival in Sofia, hot, with maximum temperature 27°C It was not the most auspicious of starts as our flight was delayed for more than an hour 'due to overbooking'. In actual fact it transpired that this was because the aircraft being used was smaller than the one originally scheduled and luggage also had to be moved. Unfortunately one of our group was among those ‘bumped off’ the flight and was to be flown out via Vienna. We made up some of the time and arrived in Bulgaria just 48 minutes late. After clearing immigration and collecting baggage, we found Mario and Nikolay awaiting us. Nikolay, our local representative, was to have been our bird leader, however due to a health problem he was not going to be with us and had arranged another bird leader, Dancho. Ruth had been further delayed, so arrangements were made to have her collected on arrival at Sofia and brought to the hotel. Despite these initial problems, all went well subsequently and it was a superb week! The bus was loaded and soon after 3pm we were on our way. After travelling for less than half an hour we stopped at the Verdena River, a regular site for this tour and a chance to stretch our legs and breathe in the air. As always, it was a productive introduction to some of the Bulgarian flora and fauna. Clouded Yellow, Silver-washed Fritillary, White Admiral, Common Glider, Map, Pearly Heath, Meleager's Blue, Chequered Blue, Purple-shot Copper, Scarce Copper, Lattice Brown and Scarce Swallowtail were among the many butterflies seen, with the moths represented by Orange Moth and Nine-spotted. Additional excitement was provided by Balkan Goldenring, Pincertail and Common Club-tail Dragonflies, the endemic Black-winged Saw Bush-cricket Ancistrura nigrovittata, both Red and Blue-winged Grasshoppers, Rose Chafer, the dark blue and red beetle Trichodes apiarius, the longhorn beetle species Stenurella semipunctata, the bug Rhinocoris iracundus and the attractive Tephritid fly Xiphosia miliaria. Birders had to settle for Robin, Blackcap, Grey Wagtail and Dipper. The wealth of plants here included Soapwort, White Melilot, Large-leaved Spindle, Crown Vetch, Marrubium peregrinum, Chamerion dodonei and Allium flavum. Despite the fact that we had been here an hour and a half (in which time I had made 90 entries in my notebook) and we were already running late when we arrived, it was hard to drag the group away. Eventually all were back on the bus and at 5pm we continued our journey, noting White Stork and Hooded Crow en route. After a © Naturetrek March 17 1 Bulgaria in Summer Tour Report further 70 minutes we made a ten-minute comfort stop, in the course of which Crested Lark and Spanish Sparrow were among the additions to the list. We continued until we could see Melnik in the distance and we made another brief stop for the view of Melnik Rocks. Here we the found male and female of both Argiope bruennichi and A.lobata spiders, the bush-cricket Decticus albifrons and the grasshoppers Calliptamus italicus and Acrida mediterranea. The botanists noted Centauria solstitialis and C.diffusa. We eventually reached our hotel in Melnik at 8.15pm, where after checking in and a short while for people to sort themselves out, a very welcome, though rather late, evening meal was eaten outside, where we were joined by a Green Shieldbug! The briefing which followed was completed at 10.30pm, by which time most were ready to retire to their rooms after what had been a very long day, though all agreed an extremely productive and interesting one. At this point we learned that Ruth had finally landed and had met up with Peter Delchev, (Nikolay's son) who was driving her to the hotel. Day 2 Sunday 28th July Melnik; Novo Hodzhovo; Chuchuligova; Rupite Hot Springs Sunny, hot and dry with maximum temperature 36°C A 7am pre-breakfast walk from the hotel was well attended and those present were rewarded with sightings of Red-rumped Swallow, Crag Martin, Middle, Great and Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers, Sombre Tit, Red-backed Shrike, Corn, Cirl and Rock Buntings, Nightingale, Willow Tit and Redstart, as well as several common UK species. In addition, a Grey-headed Woodpecker was heard but could not be located. A Painted Lady was the only butterfly seen while the plants included Geranium macrorrhizum, and the yellow flowered Achillea coarctata. At breakfast we at last met Ruth, who had finally arrived at the hotel at 1.15am. Following a satisfying breakfast, again eaten outside, we all assembled at 9am and boarded the bus. At 9.20am we made a fifteen minute stop, initially for a Short-toed Eagle, but Rock Sparrow, Crested Lark and Balkan Wall Lizard were also quickly spotted, as well as a Keeled Skimmer dragonfly, and with Teucrium montanum, Heliotropium europaeum and Onoprdum illyricum among the plants. We continued to the village of Novo Hodzhovo, close to the border with Greece. Here a large White Stork nest and its main inhabitants, as well as Spanish Sparrows nesting within the nest structure, proved popular with the photographers. The were leaf mines of Cameraria ohridella on Horse Chestnut, now prolific in the UK, whilst John B found the curious little lace-bug Corythucha ciliata on the leaves of its host, Oriental Plane. This lace-bug is another alien species that is now invading the UK. As we walked down to the river, Mediterranean and Mallow Skippers, Southern White Admiral, Iolas, Silver-studded and Lang's Short-tailed Blues, Knapweed Fritillary and Scarce Swallowtail were among the butterflies noted, while the red and black striped bug Graphosoma lineatum (= italicum) (aptly christened AC Milan Bug by someone in the group) also attracted attention. Another Short-toed Eagle drifted overhead while soon after a Golden Oriole was spotted, with a Kingfisher over the river. Also at the river were Beautiful and Banded Demoiselle damselflies, and Banded Darter, Spotted Darter and Southern Hawker dragonflies. Additional insect interest was provided by the impressive large longhorn beetle Morimus funereus, the jewel beetle Julodis ehrenbergi, the shield-bug Apodiphus amygdali and the large Violet Carpenter Bee Xylocopa violacea. The flora here included Christ's Thorn, Nettle Tree, Italian Viper's Bugloss, Skeleton Weed, Branched Plantain and Pink Everlasting. 2 © Naturetrek March 17 Bulgaria in Summer Tour Report We left here at 11.50am and drove on for just 10 minutes, arriving at Chuchuligovo village. Walking from here we saw further good butterflies such as Grizzled and Pigmy Skippers, Lesser Spotted Fritillary, Lesser Fiery Copper and Eastern Bath White. Once again there was a good selection of other interesting insects including Praying Mantis (Mantis religiosa), Red-veined Darter, the shieldbugs Carpocoris mediterraneus, Graphosoma semipunctata and Codophila varia, the large Clerid beetle Trichodes crabroniformis, and a nymph of the large Egyptian Grasshopper (Anacridium aegyptiacum) among them. A Hawfinch was a good addition to the bird list, whilst plants included Eryngium campestre and Gypsophila repens. At 1.30pm, following our picnic lunch we drove on, arriving at the hot springs at Rupite at 2pm. Here water temperatures can reach 74° C and it is a popular place for locals as a spa. This is always a very productive site and this year was excellent. The butterflies included Small and Sooty Coppers, Southern White Admiral, Lattice Brown and Tree Grayling, while several moths were also seen including Common Emerald, Small Blood Vein, Oblique Carpet, Rosy Footman and Purple-Marbled. As always here the dragonflies and damsels were also a feature with Southern Skimmer, Scarlet Darter, Migrant Spreadwing, Small Red-eyed Damsel, Small Blue-tailed Damsel and White-legged Damsel among those noted on this occasion. The enormous carnivorous bush-cricket Saga natoliae, the largest European insect, was a superb find (and for several their highlight of the week), with the leatherbug species Centrocoris spiniger and Coriomeris denticulatus and the plant-hopper Opsius stactogallus also recorded. In the stream were Western Mosquito-fish (Gambusia affinis), Marsh Frogs and Caspian Pond Tortoise, while the best of the birds was a group of Bee-eaters. The plants here are also of interest and included Maltese Cross (Tribulus terrestris) with fiercely spiny fruits, surely a threat to the bare-footed bathers, Lavatera thuringiaca, Digitalis lanata, Periploca gracea, Cynanchum acutum (Stranglewort) and the Dodder Cuscuta palaestina.