24 allanimals NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2012 Desperate poachers are robbing Nicaragua’s forests of their diversity. A rescue center supported by Humane Society International is helping animals return to the wild where they belong. he man with the plastic mesh bag is looking for a sale. Hanging out in the well-worn dirt strip on the edge of one of Managua’s main intersections, he eyes each vehicle, searching for customers—or police. He’s surrounded by other vendors, shirts hung with multiple pairs of cheap sunglasses, wrists with plastic bags full of remotes, windshield wipers, and phone chargers. Several hold sticks on which perch little chocoyos—para- keets—with clipped wings. Whenever a driver or passenger shows a flicker of interest, the sellers move casually out into traffic—private vehicles for the wealthy few and exuberantly decorated public buses, many of them castoff yellow school buses from the United States. Now the man with the bag spots a possibility. The passengers in an SUV have been asking to see a lapa, or scarlet macaw, one of the biggest and brightest of the birds in Nicaragua’s forests, but also among the rarest and most protected—far too valuable to display by the roadside. He hustles to the car and tells the driver to go through the intersection and pull over just past a gas station. 25 For every bird who appears live for sale, an estimated three have died—from dehydration, suffocation, hypothermia, starvation, injury, or stress. Leaning in through the front passenger window of the parked for meat. Traders who travel to the farming frontier, at the forest’s SUV, he offers the people inside a lapa. “I can get it for you edge, exchange food and other goods for wildlife, then smuggle the tomorrow.” But they want to see something now. So he returns with animals to roadside sellers or back to the capital. For every bird who the bag. From inside he draws a red-lored Amazon: a green parrot appears live for sale, an estimated three have died—from dehydra- with a band of crimson above the nose. More common and less tion, suffocation, hypothermia, starvation, injury, or stress. expensive than a scarlet macaw, it still belongs to a species scientists “I’m overwhelmed by a growing frustration and helplessness,” are considering listing as threatened. The bird blinks in the sudden says Martin Lezama-López, an ornithologist whose work on parrot mid-afternoon light and flaps its wings. The man keeps a tight grip, populations helped get tougher laws passed in Nicaragua. “Each day though it’s a baby, with feathers still growing in. Born about six it becomes clearer that there is a demand for these birds. This months earlier in the forest, in the cavity of a tree trunk, the bird was demand hasn’t changed in decades, despite many environmental taken from the nest by a poacher who climbed or cut the tree. Then campaigns in support of nature.” it was dosed with rum or Valium, placed in the bottom of a bag or Largely invisible within Nicaragua, a wider international trade basket, and kept quiet beneath a damp towel for the trip to Managua. also drains wildlife from forests such as the Bosawas Biosphere Down in the dark of the bag the man has brought over, two Reserve in the north and the Indio Maiz Biological Reserve in the more pairs of eyes look up. The people in the SUV want to see these southeast. Animals are smuggled out of the country despite restric- birds too. Reluctantly (they won’t bring as much money), the man tions on wild bird imports imposed by the United States in 1992 and brings them out. These are orange-chinned parakeets, smaller, a European Union ban enacted in 2007, and after Nicaragua in 2005 around 4 months old. Feeling his way toward a sale, the man makes eliminated quotas that for decades had allowed the export of limited up a story. “They’re a family. These are the babies. You can have numbers of less threatened birds, reptiles, and amphibians—up to them all for $130.” 10,000 parrots and parakeets a year. The people in the SUV are still undecided, so the man tries once An untold number of animals illegally depart the country on more. “I can get you as many as you need,” he says, which is true— flights, hidden in false-bottomed suitcases or lengths of PVC pipe all he has to do is go to a holding center in the capital where birds taped to passengers’ bodies like drugs. Others trickle across from rural areas are kept as inventory. “Just tell me what you want.” Nicaragua’s borders via the Pan-American Highway into Honduras So goes the slow, steady depletion of wildlife from Nicaragua’s or Costa Rica. Often they end up in El Salvador, which has few for- forests, and from those in the rest of Central America—especially ests and little wildlife left but serves as a major transshipment point the raucous, vibrantly plumed, highly intelligent parrots. Nicaragua for traffickers. From there, animals are sent to the United States, is the poorest nation in Central America and the second poorest in Europe, and Japan, where the most sought-after parrots can each the Western Hemisphere, with limited funds for law enforcement bring $1,000, $2,000, or more. Andrés Gómez Palacios, deputy com- and limited economic opportunities to draw people away from the missioner of the Nicaraguan police’s Division of Economic wildlife trade. And there’s a long tradition here of taking animals from the forests to keep as pets. Around Managua, furtively but persistently, vendors sell the country’s wild birds and other animals. Along the highways too, in roadside markets the government despairs of stopping, parrots and parakeets and the occasional monkey are offered as pets; bunches of iguanas, hung upside down by their tails with their mouths sewn shut so they can’t bite, are sold Black spiny-tailed iguanas, mouths sewn shut, are sold for meat on Managua’s outskirts. A spider monkey dangles from a seller’s arm along the Pan-American Highway. 26 allanimals NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2012 Approaching an SUV at a gas station, a man tries to sell a red-lored parrot from Contras, the couple returned from exile in California and Miami. a bag near a busy intersection in the capital of Managua. New bans on capturing wild animals and better enforcement of environmental laws are driving sellers They found the zoo in trouble and took it over. “I love my country, from some markets, but thousands of poached animals are still sold as pets. and I love my animals,” says Argüello, who despite neck surgery and back pain has kept the enterprise going, using her own money and Investigations, says people from outside the country place orders funding she manages to raise from the government and others. and the animals are delivered to them through networks that reach Last year, $35,000 in State Department money, provided through the most remote communities. HSI, paid for the construction of a new set of buildings for the “It is not only one person,” he says. “It is groups. It is many, rescue center so it could be moved from the zoo grounds and run many people.” separately. There’s a receiving area, a clinic, and a room for baby animals. HSI gave another $7,000 for a two-story mesh enclosure in WAY STATION FOR WILDLIFE which monkeys and birds can get ready to return to the forest. On the outskirts of Nicaragua’s capital, Humane Society Almost instantly, the new rescue center was at its capacity of around International is doing its part to help the animal victims of the web 500 animals. Nearly 2,000 would pass through it during its first of trafficking. With a grant from the U.S. State Department, HSI is year of operation. supporting the country’s only officially sanctioned rescue center as In late May, babies born during the first months of 2012 look out it takes in animals confiscated from the illegal trade, rehabilitates from their cages. They were taken from the wild just days or weeks them, and releases them back into the wild. At the same time, HSI into their lives and, through confiscations or rescues, ended up here. is running public education campaigns and training customs offi- There are fuzzy little howler monkeys, and ferruginous pygmy owls cers, police, and soldiers to enforce anti-poaching laws, including a with fledgling feathers, and juvenile yellow-naped parrots who were 2005 statute that imposed tougher penalties for environmental fed by syringe when they arrived three months earlier, after police crimes. Participants also learn to identify protected species and had confiscated them on Nicaragua’s Atlantic coast. (These parrots, humanely handle confiscated animals. (HSI runs similar programs popular for their friendly personalities and ability to talk, are listed in Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, and Honduras.) as vulnerable on the International Union for Conservation of The rescue center is located next to the national zoo in Managua, Nature Red List.) There’s a pink-nosed two-toed baby sloth climbing which was saved from financial ruin by Friends of the Nicaraguan slowly, slowly across the mesh of his cage to examine visitors with Zoo Foundation director Marina Argüello and her husband, veteri- unhurried intensity. narian Eduardo Sacasa. In 1996, following Nicaragua’s years of civil Beyond the baby room, cages lining the walls of the buildings war between the left-leaning Sandinistas and the U.S.-backed and spilling out into a big grassy clearing hold a cross section of the humanesociety.org 27 animals who make up Nicaragua’s ecosystems, which contain 7 per- cage with another of their species who’s not ready for release.