L, 215 3 1924 072 688 All books are subject to recall after two weeks DATE DUE Cornell University Library k€^ The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924072688215 THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE. THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE; OR, THE DRESS OP WOMEN PEOM THE GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME. FROM THE FRENCH OF M. AUGUSTL\ CHALLAMEL. BY Mrs. CASHEL HOEY and Mr. JOHN LILLIE. JJtU) gorfe : S C R T B N E R AND \V E L F O R D. 1882. : Alo^i^'iX'^ LONDON PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. JOHN'S SQUARE. —— CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets —Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies Paris the temple of fashion —The provinces —ildlle. Mars' yellow gown —The causes of fashion—A saying of Mme. de Girardin's— A remark of Mrs. TroUope's — The dress of actresses — Earliest theories of fashion—The Gynseceum of Amman First appearance of the "Journal des Dames et des Modes" — Lamesangere Other publications—An anecdote concerning dolls— Plan of the History of Fashion in France CHAPTER I. THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD. Gallic period —Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgetes—"Mayors" and "Palla" —Cleanliness of the Gallic women -The froth of beer or "kourou "—The women of Marseilles ; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment—The " stola "—Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of women Artificial aids —A "vestiaire" or wardrobe-room of the period—Shoes—^Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crystal ball—Influence of the barbarians ... 13 CHAPTER II. THE MEROVINGIAN PERIOD. Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks—Customs of the latter The Merovingians—Costumes of skins and felt ; cloaks and camlets—The caif, the veil, the skull-cap, the " guimpe,"the cape—Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers —Various articles of dress —The "suint"—Young girls dress their hair without ornaments—St. Radegonde —The hair of married women . 21 CHAPTER III. THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD. Reign of Charlemagne—The women of the tenth century wear two tunics—Judith's belt—A veil is obligatory—Miniatures in the Mazarin Library— Charles the Bald's Bible— Shoes—Dress of Queen Lutgarde—Dress of Rotrude and Bertha—Gisla and other kinswomen of the Emperor—The successors of Charlemagne— Cannes — Vermandois The dress of widows . Adelaide of — .... 25 — ——A ' ' vi CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD, PAGE provinces- Earliest times of the Carlovingian period —Variety of costume in the century Fashions in the Duchy of France -French taste dating from the eleventh " "—Canes —Luxury increases with each generation—The dominical—The bliaud Afiche "— of apple- wood—Women in the twelfth century—Head-dresses— " Serpent-tails—Pelisses—The thirteenth century— " Greves " and veils are in " fashion—The "couvre-chef " in the fourteenth century—The skirt, or cotte- hardie/' surcoat, or overall, or overskirt, cape, trained skirt, and "gauzape"— Accessories—Emblazoned gowns—Various kinds of stuffs 3 CHAPTER V. THE INFLUENCE OF THE CRUSADES. Severity of feminine costume—Long gowns and ^»«/«—Marguerite of Provence— "Fermaux"—Reappearance of splendour in dress— Eastern customs—The priests of fashion—Haberdashery and peacock-feathers—Female embroiderers—Taste for embroidery—Continual temptations— Earliest sumptuary laws—Furs—St. Louis's opinion on dress -Prohibitions by Philippe le Bel; speech made by his wife— Crepine 39 CHAPTER VI. REIGNS OF JOHN AND OF CHARLES V. The States of Languedoc—A young French lady in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries—Low dresses— Saying of a mercer Damoiselles— Gariiaches and garde- corps—Le Parement des dames— Social distinctions — High character is worth more than gilded belt—Precious stones —The castles and other dwellings of the Middle Ages—Splendid furniture—Humble abodes of the poor—Evening assemblies . 45 CHAPTER VII. - REIGNS OF CHARLES VI. AND CHARLES VII. Taste in dress becomes purer—Heart-shaped head-coverings, the "comette," and the "hennin " in the reign of Charles VL—Husbands complain—^Preachers denounce —Thomas Connecte declaims against the diabolic invention —Brother Richard tries to reform it—The "hennin" gains the victory—Costume of Jeanne de Bourbon— "Escoffion"—An absurd figure— Gravou^re — Isabe.au de Bavi^re Gorgiaset^s—Tripes— Splendour of the court—Agnes Sorel— "Coiffe adoumee ;'' diamonds ; the carcan—Walking-sticks . • 5 CHAPTER VIII. REIGNS OF LOUIS XL, CHARLES VIII., AND LOUIS XII. Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XL— "La grand 'gorre," or sumptuosity The "troussoire"—Allegorical and moral costumes—Trains—Head-dresses "Collets rebrassfe" —Wigs and false hair—Some results of the war in Italy — Italian fashions " Sollerets" and slippers— Gorgets—Garters—^Jean Marot writes against novelties—Anne of Brittany—Pins—Menot " the golden-tongued "— Parisian in the time of Louis XII. —Coat a I'ltalienne —Manufacture of stuffs , 61 ——— CONTENTS. vu CHAPTER IX. REIGN OF FRANCIS I. PAGE The court of Francis I. —A speech of Charles V.—The king's liberality—Order of the Cordeliere—Word-paintings of the fashions of the day, by Rabelais—Costumes of the seasons—Feather-fans—Sunshades—The "hoche-plis" or vertugadin—Mme. de Tressan saves her cousin's life—Satires and songs—Mdlle. de LacepMe " " Contenances —Silk shoes with slashes—Head-dress called a " passe-filon ' — Increase of love of dress—The bean- flower—Artistic head-dresses—Twists of hair called ratrafrenades—Ferronieres— Coaches in Paris ; their influence on the fashions .............. 7' CHAPTER X. REIGN OF HENRI II. Fashions under Henri U.— The ruff—A satirical print of the time—Catherine de Medicis eats soup—The Italian taste—Regulations for dress— Crimson—Who shall wear silk?—Lines on velvet, by Ronsard—Rotonde—"Collet monte" Spring-water— Style of gowns and head-dresses—Wired sleeves— Girdles— Caps, bonnets, and hoods—The " touret de nez"—The " cuffin a roupies"— Shoes A quotation from Rabelais CHAPTER XI. REIGN OF FRANCIS II. The earliest queens of fashion— Mary Stuart's costumes ; her jewels—Description of bodices and sleeves of that period— Crosses—The "loup" or small mask Coiffure "en raquette"—An anecdote concerning high heels— Regulations re- specting fashion— Remark of a lady of our own day on distinctions in dress Exordium of the Edict of July 12, 1549— Maximum of marriage portions— The first knitted silk stockings ......... 89 CHAPTER XII. REIGN OF CHARLES IX. The wars of religion—The fashions of Italy are brought across the Alps, and are welcomed in France—Effects of the expeditions into Italy— Articles from Venice and Genoa are very fashionable—A cloud of sugar-plums, and a shower of scents Effeminate style of dress— Charles IX.. and his Edicts against extravagant display Fashion rebels against sumptuary laws—Women of high rank, bourgeoises, widows, and spinsters— Wedding dresses— Observations of a Venetian ambassador — " Corps pique ' — Drawers—Paint— Cosmetics— Breast mirrors, girdle mirrors — Court dresses " Arcelets " 95 CHAPTER XIII. REIGN OF HENRI III. Opposition to the laws of King Ilenri III. on dress—The wife of President N . —How both sexes evaded the edicts—Gowns from Milan—Mixture of masculine and feminine fashions— Rage for perfumes—Recognition of rank is demanded Costumes worn at Cognac by Marguerite de Valois in presence of the Polish ambassadors, and her costume at Blois— Brantome's opinion^Pointed bodices, puffi;d-out sleeves, and "bourrelets"— Remarks on hair— Ridiculous dress of men—Poucet, the preacher— Satirical lines on Joyeuse— Witty remark of Pierre de I'Estoile— Starch used by Henri III.— Cushions 103 a 2 —— viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIV. REIGNS OF HENRI IV. AND LOUIS XIII. PAGE Universal mourning on the death of the Guises ; intolerance of showy dress Vertugadins, " espoitrement, " "corps espagnole" — Diversity of colours—The pearls, jewels, and diamonds belonging to Gabrielle d'Estrees and to the queen Dress of Marguerite de France—Low-cut bodices—Head-dresses of hair—Various " styles—Venetian slippers— Edicts of Louis XII.—Caricatures: Pompe funebre " " de la Mode"—Words and fashions— Ribbons or galants —Dress of widows— " — Demi-ceint" girdles—Gloves of all sorts— Patches—Masks ; their use " Cache- laid"—The Frondeuses— Mme. de Longueville 1 13 CHAPTER XV. REIGN OF LOUIS XIV. Louis XIV. commands— Court luxury and pleasure; disguises—The Temple jewellery — Fashion and etiquette—Successive fashions —Royal edicts—The " Tombeau du sens commun "—Dress of La Valliere—Of Mme. de Montespan— Costume of a " lady of rank in 1668—The "echelles de Mme. de la Reynie — "Transparencies" — Manufactures—Champagne, the hair-dresser— Female hair-dressers — " Hurlu- berlus" and Mme. de Sevigne— Moustaches for women; patches—Palatines Slippers; high heels —Corsets; fans; sweet lemons——Dog-muffs- Hair dressed "a la Fontanges"— English style of dressing hair "Esther"—Steinkerks "Crt'monas" — " Amadis" and Jansenist sleeves— Hair dressed "a Teffrontee " Dresses of the Duchesse de Bourgogne—Mignardises .... 125 CHAPTER XVI. REIGN OF LOUIS XIV. (CONTINUED). Painted faces—Reply of a Turkish ambassador— Ineffectual criticism—Mme. Turcaret's " pretintailles "— Mme. Bonnet's law-suit —Brocaded materials—" Andriennes " " Criardes " — Return of "hoops" and paniers — A sailor's leap — Actresses' paniers, and the Greek head-dress— Mme. de