NINTH EDITION Harry’s Cosmeticology Harry’s Cosmeticology 9th Edition © 2015 Chemical Publishing Co., Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United Stated Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Publisher, Chemical Publishing Company, through email at [email protected]. The publisher, editors and authors make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose. Volume One - ISBN: 978-0-8206-01762 Volume Two - ISBN: 978-0-8206-01779 Volume Three - ISBN: 978-0-8206-01786 eBook - ISBN: 978-0-8206-01793 First Edition Chemical Publishing Company www.chemical-publishing.com Printed in the United States of America About the Editor-in-Chief Meyer R. Rosen CChem, CPC, CChE, CFEI, DABFE, DABFET, FAIC Meyer R. Rosen is President of Interactive Consulting, Inc. (www.chemicalconsult.com). He is a Thought-Leader and expert in the field of Technical Marketing and multi-industry Technology Transfer Applications including, but not limited to: cosmetics and personal care, applied rheology, applied surface and interfacial chemistry, polymers, organosilicones, professional editing and custom preparation of Mind-Maps® for the organization and presentation of complex information. Mr. Rosen is a Chartered Chemist and Fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry (London); a Fellow of the American Institute of Chemists and both a Nationally Certified Professional Chemist and Certified Professional Chemical Engineer. He is a member of the U.S. Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) & the American Institute of Chemical Engineers. Meyer serves as an Advisor for David Smith, Executive Director of the SCC Advisory Committee. He is also Editor for U.S. & Canada and Editor-in-Chief for North and Latin America for Euro Cosmetics Magazine in Germany. Mr. Rosen is Editor of the Delivery System Handbook for Personal Care and Cosmetic Products and Editor-in-Chief of Harry’s Cosmeticology, 9th Ed. Meyer served for six years as the Chief Scientific Advisor and Director of Technical Programming for United Business Media’s (UBM) HBA Technical Conferences. He a former Director of the American Institute of Chemists, past Vice President of the Association of Consulting Chemists and has served on the Scientific Advisory Board of Supply Side West/East: Virgo Publications. Mr. Rosen is also the Founder, Organizer and co-moderator for HBA’s Annual International Safety, Regulatory and Certification Symposia. Acknowledgements I acknowledge the ongoing sense of calm thoughtfulness of Ben Carr, my wonderful publisher and his confidence and trust in my judgment while providing the special support that has meant so much to me, over the almost three years it has taken to produce the book you are reading today. I also acknowledge and thank the many authors of this book for their commitment to making this the best Harry’s ever written. They have taught me many things by their writings and provided superb networking contacts to people who had the background to write about the areas I saw as needing to be in the book. I am grateful for their growing friendship and relationship and providing me the opportunity to interact with many of the finest minds/people; and their thinking, as well as following my guidelines to achieve our goals. I am also grateful for the many kind words from my authors and editors who liked my professional editing skills and sharpening them as I went along. Their patience in explaining- in writing- the answers to all of my seemingly endless questions contributed much to my understanding our industry in a way that was far more in depth than I brought to beginning this book. As I said to them, “If you can’t explain it to me so I really understand it; then how will our readers understand what you are saying? I give special thanks to my Editors who took my thoughts and ideas and worked with me to find authors who knew their subjects and could organize and combine the thinking of- the- many to produce a unified- whole. Special thanks also to Navin Geria, Howard Epstein, Chia Chen, Bruce Victor, Bozena Michniak-Kohn, Ruud Overbeek, Manuel Gamez-Garcia, Michael Prencipe, Chuck Warren, Lee Stapleton, Adam Friedman, M.D., Ray Rigoletto, Roger McMullen, Randy Wickett, Martha Tate and so many others who have contributed to this book. Finally, I wish to thank my friend and colleague, Professor Doctor Johann Wiechers, former President of the IFSCC (International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists) who unfortunately, unexpectedly and oh-so-quickly passed from this life while on one of his numerous visits to countries around the world. Johann travelled to more countries than I can name, to encourage and support the IFSCC in its mission to bring beauty and health to the many through his clear thinking, close, objective, ever-questioning and challenging examination of the “science” associated with cosmetics and personal care. Once upon a time, he told me that while travelling the world, he always stayed in the same type of room of his favorite hotel chain because “it always made him feel like he was at home.” A manager I once had told me that if “I had lemons, I should make lemonade”. And so it was with Johann, who turned the enormous amount of time he spent in travelling to producing an incredible volume of questioning, challenging and probing scientific papers for us to read and think about for years to come. Wherever you are, Johann, I want you to know that your work and critical thinking approach to cosmetic science has impacted us all- and we miss you greatly. Dedication This book is dedicated to my wife Selma, my Soulmate, Committed Listener and Partner in the Journey-of-Life. She who knows, and reminds me, to put the past in the past in order to open the doorway to the creation of new possibilities and generate new directions for growth in areas we do not know that we do not know. How remarkable it is When mere words on paper Grow together Beyond themselves. Such words as these Are tracks in time. Memories of a mind Focused A heart and soul Ensconced. —Meyer R. Rosen July 4, 2014 Preface Dear Reader: This book is filled with highly technical and not-so-technical, but critical, information on the current state of the art in the cosmetic and personal care industry. Before you jump into it, as I hope you will, for years to come, I take the liberty and license of providing some personal thoughts to let you know what motivated me in taking on this project, which has now been about two and a half years in the making. If you had asked me if there ever would come a time that I would take on another major book project as large as the one I did about ten years ago (Delivery System Handbook for Personal Care and Cosmetic Products: Technology, Applications, and Formulations) . well, I would have gracefully declined. However, as with many things in life, “everything has a season”—and there came a day that a soft-spoken, supportive man by the name of Ben Carr, Publisher of Chemical Publishing Company, offered me the opportunity to be Editor-in-Chief of the widest-selling book in the cosmetic industry over the past sixty years! It was time to say yes, for in my heart, and for over thirty years, I had wanted to deepen my understanding, learn from, and then teach many of the brightest minds in the world about this intriguing area called Cosmetics. The reason it intrigued me is that the concept of creating beauty provides joy for us all in looking good and feeling good as a result. Ralph Gordon Harry, FRIC, created the first edition of what later became Harry’s Cosmeticology. At the time (1954) it was called Cosmetics: Their Principles and Practices. We believe he also authored the 2nd through the 6th editions as well. The 7th edition was published in 1982 and co-edited by J.B. Wilkinson, MA, BSc, CChem, FRSC, and R.J. Moore, BSc, CChem, MRSC, MIInfSc; followed by the 8th edition in 2000 by Martin M. Rieger, PhD, and now, the 9th edition by myself, Meyer R. Rosen. The Preface of the first edition describes the evolution of the modern cosmetics industry, which was grounded in the needs of the military in World War II. Some of the areas Harry mentions as stimulants for cosmetic scientific and technological creativity included, but were not limited to, development of safe and efficacious sun-screening agents for men marooned on liferafts or in the desert who might be subjected to very severe solar exposure without shelter; flashburn creams designed to protect exposed skin surfaces against burns (“commando makeup”); and anti-sunburn lipsticks. Soaps, shaving creams, toothpastes, and fragrances were also developed for the military. On the home front, special toilet soaps and barrier creams were developed to reduce dermatitis and, at the same time, the value of cosmetics as a morale builder became recognized when it was claimed that they served to combat fatigue and that a dressing room in a factory might improve efficiency by as much as 10 to 15%. All these developments necessarily had repercussions in the cosmetic field and resulted in the synthesis and development of other cosmetic ingredients such as insect repellants, emulsifiers, detergents, antioxidants, preservatives, and more.