THE STYLIST ISSUE ISSUE NO. 13 | FALL/WINTER 2019 John Bead Outlet Ad.pdf 1 7/18/2019 9:24:16 AM C M Y CM MY CY CMY K Toronto’s Largest Bead & Craft Store Open 7 Days A Week www.johnbeadoutlet.com Attached to the John Bead Corporation wholesale showroom and distribution centre: www.johnbead.com Discount Code: BESPOKE15 Please show a copy of this ad in our store Expires December 31, 2019 for an additional 15% off your purchases. John Bead Outlet Ad.pdf 1 7/18/2019 9:24:16 AM BeSpoke magazine no. 13 CONTENTS Editor-in-Chief Martha Mann Tribute: CAFTCAD bids Fall Forward: CAFTCAD’s stylists Loretta Chin 05 farewell to an industry icon 09 showcase Fall/Winter 2019 Trends Creative Director Jo Jin 06 A Piece of The Pie: Inclusive Stylists 13 Ready, Set, Go: Hunting for treasure Managing Editor & step up the move to Diversity at CAFTCAD’s Movie Wardrobe Sale Advertising Manager Lynsey Clark Style Council: An intimate look at the Close Up: First looks on what Executive Board Liaison 08 craft of Styling 14 CAFTCAD members are doing Leslie Kavanagh Judith Ann Clancy Copy Editor Kim Harkness Photography Cover and Features David Hou Tribute to Martha Mann Hart House Movie Wardrobe Sale C Semco Salehi M Diversity in Film Industry Lynsey Clark Y Researcher CM Lori-Anne Krausewitz MY Graphic Design CY Tammy Rogers CMY Printer Digital Won K Contributors Loretta Chin Lynsey Clark Vanessa Fischer Jo Jin Minda Johnson Nicole Manek Marie-Eve Tremblay Contact: CAFTCAD The Canadian Alliance of Film & Television Toronto’s Largest Bead & Craft Store Costume Arts & Design 416-900-0955 Open 7 Days A Week www.caftcad.com www.johnbeadoutlet.com Attached to the John Bead Corporation wholesale Find us on social media: showroom and distribution centre: www.johnbead.com @caftcad Cover Image Styled by Discount Code: BESPOKE15 Please show a copy of this ad in our store Marie-Eve Tremblay Expires December 31, 2019 for an additional 15% off your purchases. 3 BESPOKE no. 13 LETTER FROM LETTER FROM THE EDITOR THE PRESIDENT or BeSpoke 13 we have created I hope you enjoy this edition of Welcome to the 2019 fall edition FThe Stylist Issue, which shines a BeSpoke - my last. Over the past seven of Bespoke. Our popular magazine spotlight on the craft of styling within issues, along with Kim Harkness our has been helmed by Loretta Chin as our CAFTCAD community. As a stylist Copy Editor, this volunteer editorial Editor-in-chief since 2014. On behalf with a couple of decades of styling team in numerous incarnations has of the whole team I’d like to thank under my designer belt, in our feature sought to create a vehicle that would Loretta for her inspiration, insight, story, Style Council, my goal was to give our CAFTCAD family an engaging and eloquence as she signs off of provide our community a more intimate overview of the organization and her position to move on to other portrait of what a stylist is and does. community, and those outside our endeavors. industry the opportunity to understand Since we are celebrating stylists in what CAFTCAD is, represents, and In the pages of this issue we our community, we are pleased to actively does. celebrate the art of styling. There feature a fashion editorial that covers has often been a perceived divide some of the trends you will see this It has been my privilege. between the styling and costuming fall. Traditionally, the stills photoshoot communities, but in our membership is the root of styling and where many we see many who excel at crafting stylists begin their careers. stunning visual imagery for print, commercials, and music videos, but On a more serious note, within these also design costumes for long format pages we also acknowledge that within and vice versa. There are so many the styling community there is an facets to our costuming community underrepresentation of the diversity and we are excited to highlight our that makes Canada one of the best CAFTCAD stylists and explore the countries in the world. behind the scenes of the job. We also pay tribute to Martha Mann, In this issue we also pay tribute to one of the legends within the costume Martha Mann Southgate, one of our industry, a true pioneer of the craft and founding members, and a pillar of the the matriarch to countless costumers Canadian costume community. Our in our industry. We always have to heartfelt condolences go out to her acknowledge and honour the legacy family and friends as we all mourn her of those lights who shine brightly and LORETTA CHIN passing. She was a true artist and will pave the way for those who come after. Editor- in-Chief be sorely missed. As we move into a new decade, we are excited to be developing new training opportunities, our upcoming Movie Wardrobe Sale, and the 2020 CAFTCAD Awards so keep in touch with the CAFTCAD team, the website and our social media channels for GADABOUT more announcements coming soon. VINTAGE CLOTHING, CURIOS, TEXTILES AND ANTIQUES Open Everyday 1300 Queen St. East, Toronto, ON M4L 1C4 Tel: 416-463-1254 (1 Block East of Leslie) www.gadabout.ca PROP AND SET DEC RENTALS WELCOME Gadabout Vintage Clothing ALEX KAVANAGH President of the Board 4 BESPOKE no. 13 Martha Mann A Legend in Canadian Costuming By Minda Johnson comment I’ve heard repeated from those remembering For all this (and more!) she has earned the titles: ‘Grand Martha is that working with her was the beginning dame’, ‘doyenne’, ‘legendary’ … true accolades, but I saw A of their career, some even say she gave them their her all too human determination to convey her craft in the careers. This attribution is not only a matter of sheer time uncompromising artistry she felt it deserved. Through her, not in, but dominance of the costume industry. I suppose it’s only do I know how to tie a cravat, copy a Worth gown (period possible that many did not have these auspicious beginnings, seam finishes and all), name 50 shades of beige etc. etc., but that you could be a costumer without directly meeting her, learned that costuming has an important place. Beautiful yes, but make no mistake, that if you work in Canadian costuming, frivolous never. and whether you have met or worked with her or not, you have been influenced by Martha Mann. Such is her legacy and The clarity of her vision was always remarkable to me. ours to pass forward. Seemingly so sure of every detail and if she wasn’t, in the early days before internet, it meant a trip to the Anglican I first met and worked for Martha at Hart House Theatre in diocese, or Eaton’s archives to seek the answer in darkened 1985. At the time, I didn’t totally comprehend that such a job as rooms with white cotton gloves. Her knowledge, strength and costumer existed. Yet here I was with a woman who had virtually character were formidable. She was “larger than life;” large created this role in Canadian theatre as a midcentury pioneer. physically and vocally, in spirit and generosity. She wasn’t As a dresser I stabbed the leading actress with a huge hat pin selfish or greedy of these bounties, sharing them in such a in a quick change so my future didn’t feel particularly bright but way as it was assumed to be public knowledge and never 15 years later we were still working together, continuing at the suggested we were fledging idiots if we didn’t know. Well not Drama Centre, various theatre productions, films and operas. to our face anyway. At that point in her 50+ year career she had already been Beyond the clothes, I feel so fortunate to have known Martha Head of Design for the Grand Theatre, University of Toronto the woman, the mother, the wife. To share her infamous (U of T) Drama Centre; designed for the Stratford Festival laugh, sense of humour and the inner sanctum of tea parties. and was a founding member of The Associated Designers of She was one of the most inspired and authentic people I Canada and later of CAFTCAD. Further accomplishments in have known. As voracious in life as in work, she had a hunger her story include six Gemini Awards and a Dora Mavor Moore to see and know all. I surely thought she was one of the Award for her exquisite work with Opera Atelier. She taught immortals but with this supernova loss we somehow have to at Ontario College of Art & Design and U of T and created a carry on and carry all that was brought to our field and our costuming program at The International Academy of Design, lives by the grace and gift of our dear mentor and friend. perhaps to fulfill her dream as a young woman to pursue this course of study which was not available at the time. With love and thanks, Minda Johnson 5 BESPOKE no. 13 A Piece of the Pie Creating Opportunities for Diversity in the Film Industry By Vanessa Fischer nclusive Stylist Toronto was created by wardrobe stylist IGeorgia Groom and stylist and costume designer Vanessa Fischer. The duo noticed a lack of diversity and inclusion in the world of commercial styling and took action. By thinking positively about actions they could take to help promote the craft to those who are underrepresented in the industry, they decided to create a workshop that covered the basic concepts of styling.