Incredible Ice Wine By Michael Schafer Ice wine is incredible. Seriously, it's ridiculously delicious. Difficult to produce, available in miniscule Mark Johnson, who studied at the Federal quantities and quite expensive, ice wine is Research Station and Institute in Geisenheim, luxury in a glass. If you haven't had it, you Germany. The Finger Lakes of New York also must try it at least once. If you've already produce outstanding offerings of ice wine. enjoyed a glass or two you know how Production delectable it is. There are just a few spots where the grapes get enough sunshine during the summer to What Ice Wine Is Not generate enough sugar and have winters Ice wine is a sweet dessert wine. It is not cold enough to actually freeze the grapes on affected by the noble rot Botrytis cinerea the vine. (aka “noble rot”). It is not beerenauslese In Canada, Germany, Austria, and the USA or trockenbeerenauslese because those regulations mandate that grapes must be sweet wines are affected by noble rot. By harvested frozen on the vine. If the label law, ice wine cannot be the botrytised style reads "iced wine" or "iced dessert wine" the of wine! True ice wine is made from grapes liquid in the bottle may be tasty but it isn't that have frozen on the vine, not frozen in ice wine. the winery. There is a difference! In the United States the law specifies that the grapes must be naturally frozen. History According to the Federal TTB (Tax and According to legend a German winemaker Trade Bureau) regulations "Wine made was away from his vineyards when the from grapes frozen after harvest may not grapes froze on the vines. Being a frugal sort be labeled with the term 'ice wine' or any of fellow, he proceeded to defy convention variation thereof, and if the wine is labeled and pressed them for fermentation into to suggest it was made from frozen grapes, wine anyway. Wine lovers everywhere are the label must be qualified to show that indebted to him! the grapes were frozen postharvest." This Historical records from 1794 in ensures the quality of wine you enjoy is only Franconia, Germany mention "Eiswein" the finest! being produced. After the 1829 harvest Optimal weather for harvest is a minimum in Rheinhessen, Germany's largest wine of 48 hours of below 17F. It's a risky region, growers were going to use the business. If the winter is mild the grapes may harsh winter's harvest for livestock feed. rot and just fall off of the vine. Local birds Instead they started the tradition of making and animals love to eat these nutritious Eiswein when Mother Nature offered them morsels so most growers shield their vines the opportunity to bottle this nectar. with netting. Yields are much lower than for other wine. Location If the grapes don't freeze no ice wine Ice wine is produced in only a few wine is made. When the grapes are free of regions including Germany, Austria, Italy, the Botrytis, they are said to be "clean." When USA and most famously, Canada. The first harvested, the frozen grapes look like little Canadian ice wine was produced in British marbles. They must be picked and pressed Columbia, not in Ontario or Quebec, where immediately in a continuous process so the vast majority of Canadian ice wine is they don't melt and lose any of the precious now made. The initial commercial version juice. After being crushed in extra durable was produced in 1978 although a German presses, they are fermented for two-six immigrant had made some "homemade ice months (compared to days or weeks for wine" in 1972. The Niagra Peninsula is now regular wines). Special yeasts are required the world's most proficient producer of ice for fermentation due to the coldness and wine. the composition of the grapes. Michigan offers excellent examples of this elegant elixir. Ice wine was first produced in Michigan in 1983 by 2 SUMMER 2019 - TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL Grapes "nose." Numerous grapes are used to make ice wine. The most Decadent flavors of tangerine, pineapple and popular are Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Vidal Blanc, Grüner candied orange are typical of white ice wines. Veltliner, and Chenin Blanc. Cabernet Franc ice wines are Macerated strawberries, candied rhubarb and special treats from Canada. The grapes have a much higher cranberry are classic flavors of red ice wines. sugar content that grapes used to make regular table wines. Their acidity is also higher than "normal" grapes. Pairing The classic pairing of foie gras with ice wine is indulgent, Enjoyment sumptuous, and magnificently rich. It is truly one of the Ice wines produced from white grapes are usually a light most memorable taste sensations you will ever experience. gold in color and, like all white wines, get darker as they Fresh fruits like peaches and apricots or fruit tartes age. Cabernet Franc ice wines are rose'-like in color. complement white ice wines. Red ice wine pairs perfectly These wines are incredibly refreshing on your palate with wild strawberries with crème fraiche or cherry pie. even with their high sugar content. This is due to their Intense blue cheeses such as Roquefort and Gorgonzola high acidity. The simultaneous sweetness and invigorating stand up to the richness of these wines. Some enjoy acidity is unique in the world of wine. The body of the the contrast of salty Parmigianino-Reggiano with their wine is rich, velvety and oh, so luxurious. Few wines are as unctuous ice wine. intense as a fine ice wine. While some other dessert wines In your author's opinion the best way to relish the sublime have a thick, gloppy finish, ice wines invite you back for just indulgence of ice wine is by itself. Remember to serve it at another sip! approximately 50F. An hour or two in your refrigerator is Aromas of honey, tropical fruits, exotic spices are just a just right. You want to enjoy the aromas, texture, flavors few of the delights in your glass. If aged in oak, hints of and finish of this marvelous beverage. vanilla and fresh bread contribute to the complexity of the Slainte! Michael Schafer Esq., The Wine Counselor®, is the charismatic wine educator, speaker, Sommelier, C.S.W., writer and consultant who entertains while educating. His humorous and fun approach to wine is reflected in his trademark phrase, “I taste bad wine so you don’t have to”® Have you recently changed your email or mailing address? If so, please notify the National Office at [email protected] with the correct contact information. 3 SUMMER 2019 - TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL The Retailers Shelf WILHELM WALCH 2017 By Dick Scheer, Village Corner DOLOMITI PINOT GRIGIO PRENDO ITALY $13 Ann Arbor, Michigan Wilhelm Walch founded his winery and estate in 1869; today, it is run by the fifth C.V.N.E. CUNE PENEDES CAVA BRUT SPAIN $12 generation. The winery occupies a former C.V.N.E. stands for Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana- Jesuit monastery in the village of Tramin, in northeast -the Winemaking Company of Northern Spain. It's an Italy’s Alto Adige region. Here, beneath the beautiful old name and an old company, firmly grounded in Rioja, Dolomite Alps, Walch<s vineyards nurture a dozen grape where it has many acres of mature vineyards in the sub- varieties, local and international, including the grape zones Alta and Alavesa. Since the acronym is impossible to named after the village: Gewurztraminer. My subject today pronounce, everyone substitutes a 'u' for the 'v' and calls is its Pinot Grigio. Just a generation or so back, Italy’s finest the firm 'Cune' (coo-nay). More than ever today it is indeed Pinot Grigios were considered to come from the extreme a winery representing much of northern Spain instead northeast, from Friuli and its sub-zones. Today’s Alto of simply Rioja. There are ventures in Valdeorras in the Adige versions pose a definite challenge. This is a plump, northwest and in Ribera del Duero, west of Rioja, as well as full rendition, not without that dazzling fruit acidity which a commissioned Cava . Cava is the designation for a Spanish marks a white wine of high altitude origin. It will surely sparkling wine made in select zones by the Champagne brighten up a tuna-noodle casserole. method. Cune's comes from Penedes, south of Barcelona, where the majority of Cavas are produced. It consists of CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE 2016 50% Xarello, 35% Macabeo, and 15% Parellada, the leading COLUMBIA VALLEY CHARDONNAY WASHINGTON $9 varieties. This is at once beautifully fruity and wonderfully Offspring of a winery founded in 1934, Chateau Ste. biscuity after nine months on its bottle lees. You CAN have Michelle is not only Washington’s oldest but also its largest it both ways. Oh, and the mousse is so creamy! Bring on a winemaker. It’s a wonder how it grows and produces brunch buffet. so much wine so well. Part of that is thanks to location. In the rain shadow of the Cascades, the Columbia Valley CHATEAU LA GRAVIERE 2018 winegrowing region rarely encounters inclement weather. ENTRE DEUX MERS FRANCE $9 It controls its water needs via measured irrigation. It’s a The great southwest France port city of Bordeaux winegrower’s paradise! CSM took a strong sprint to growth grew up at the confluence of two rivers, the Dordogne the end of last century under Holland MI native and U and the Garenne, that join to form the Gironde estuary. Bordeaux’s vineyards are subdivided into three major regions: Left Bank (Medoc, Graves), Right Bank (Saint Emilion, Pomerol, Fronsac), and Entre deux Mers (between two seas) “Mers” is an exaggeration.