CLIP CETL: enhancing textile practice Contents 1 FASHION Resurface, reshape, and restructure Manipulation 2 Enriching, EMBROIDERY embellishing, and adorning INTRODUCTORY STUDIES Adding 3 Bedecked, bedazzled, and bejeweled Beading 4 Displacing, extracting, and distressing Subtracting 5 Constructing creating, and joining Forming FASHION DESIGN TECHNOLOGY Foreword Glossary About this CD Cover 1 2 3 4 5 Resurface, Enriching, Bedecked, Displacing, Constructing reshape, and embellishing, and bedazzled, and extracting, and creating, and restructure adorning bejeweled distressing joining Manipulation Adding Beading Subtracting Forming Gathering Appliqué Tambour Perforating Machine shirring and Couching: beading Cutwork made lace puckering ribbons, cords, Hand Découpé Weaving/ Pleating braids, objects beading Interlacing and tucking Reverse Stitching French applique Piecing and Smocking beading patching Bonding, Drawn thread Quilting trapping, Beaded Needle layering and fringes Pulled work punching slashing Beaded Knotting cord Beaded Tassel Index a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z Contents Resurface, reshape, and restructure Manipulation 1 Resurface, reshape, and Fabric manipulation can be considered as including any technique that restructure reshapes the surface of the fabric. These processes change both the look Manipulation and the feel of the material. They embrace the folding techniques of Introduction pleating, smocking and tucking, the crushing techniques of gathering, shirring and puckering and the raised relief of quilting. These techniques can either be used in isolation or combined to reconstruct or to reshape a 2 surface. Most of the techniques have considerable historical information Enriching, available for research both in written form and in examples in collections. embellishing, and adorning Manipulation changes the way that light falls on to the surface of the Adding fabric and is effective on shiny materials like satin while equally effective on velvet creating rich sumptuous folds. Illusions of movement can be created with rippled surfaces. Ideas for manipulated fabrics can be 3 explored through paper folding. By working freely with a variety of weights Bedecked, bedazzled, of paper and with a mixture of cut and torn edges exciting effects can be and bejeweled explored that give ideas for translation into textiles. Beading Fabrics will react differently when subjected to these techniques depending on their weight, texture and structure and a range of materials should be investigated, such as satin, shot taffeta, velvet, loosely woven 4 Displacing, and transparent fabrics. Try contrasting the effect of crisp fabrics that extracting, and retain their folds well with soft chiffon that forms gentler folds. Fabrics can distressing be worked on before being manipulated with ribbons, nets, or lace, or Subtracting think of painting or printing onto the fabric either before or after manipulation. 5 Within the broader field of textiles fabric finishes are employed to create Constructing effects similar to traditional methods of fabric manipulation. It is important creating, to gain a knowledge of these techniques as some can be combined with and joining embroidery, while others can be studied to inform textile samples Forming produced by traditional methods. Contents 1 Resurface, reshape, and Quilting restructure Manipulation Quilting Introduction Flat quilting 2 Wadded quilting Enriching, embellishing, Trapunto quilting and adorning Adding Cord quilting Corded quilting 3 Bedecked, Shadow quilting bedazzled, Altering form and bejeweled Beading Using technology ▼ 4 Displacing, extracting, and distressing Subtracting 5 Constructing creating, and joining Forming Contents ▲ 1 1.01 Resurface, reshape, and Eighteenth restructure Century silk Manipulation bed quilt using Quilting wadded quilting. 2 Museum of Enriching, Costume, embellishing, Bath. and adorning ▼ Adding 3 Bedecked, bedazzled, and bejeweled Beading 4 Displacing, extracting, and distressing Subtracting 5 Constructing creating, and joining Forming Contents ▲ 1 Wadded or English quilting Resurface, reshape, and restructure Wadded or English quilting is an embroidery technique that uses Manipulation three layers of fabric, in a sandwich construction, to afford warmth, Quilting protection and decoration. Lines or patterns of stitches hold the layers together and the quilting design is formed by the depression 2 created by the lines of stitching. Areas of heavy background Enriching, stitching contrast with the plain padded areas of fabric throwing embellishing, them into low relief. Complex arrangements of stiching patterns and adorning developed for use in both quilted garments and soft furnishings and Adding became characteristic to particular geographical areas of the country. 3 The padding forms a continuous layer throughout in this technique, Bedecked, giving warmth and weight but also having the effect of stiffening the bedazzled, fabric. The more densely the fabric is stitched the less flexible it and bejeweled becomes and therefore the scale and the density of the stitching Beading has to be considered throughout the design process. For this reason large pieces of quilting demand a simpler stitching design if 4 movement is to be maintained in the fabric. Displacing, Traditionally three layers are used; a top fabric with a smooth extracting, and surface; a filling layer or padding and a backing layer of butter distressing muslin or mull. When used for quilts the top layer would often Subtracting consisted of patchwork or appliqué. The firmer the backing fabric the further the fabric is thrown forward into relief and therefore the 5 more pronounced the surface effect. Traditional fillings included Constructing carded wool or cotton but these are now usually replaced by creating, synthetic wadding, either polyester or triacetate. and joining See also Process for Wadded or English quilting Forming ▼ Contents ▲ Wadded or English quilting 1 Patterns of stitching have evolved through the working of traditional wadded quilting. Resurface, These have been developed or adapted from sources ranging from architecture, reshape, and geometry and natural form. The patterns illustrated below give some typical restructure examples of corner and border patterns used in the construction of wadded Manipulation bed quilts. Quilt makers male and female were usually divided into professional pattern Quilting makers who designed the patterns or marked them out onto the fabric and the workers who stitched the quilt. Colby, (1972) contains further references with 2 interesting details of individual pattern makers of the eighteenth century. Enriching, embellishing, and adorning 1.03 Adding Fan corner and detail of fan corner from eighteenth 3 Bedecked, Century quilt. bedazzled, and bejeweled Beading Church window border with heart and spiral fillings. 4 Displacing, extracting, and distressing Subtracting Church window with 5 Constructing rose, leaf and spiral creating, fillings. and joining Forming ▼ Contents 1 ▲ Resurface, Process for Wadded or English quilting reshape, and restructure Manipulation 1. Select materials: usually a smooth closely woven fabric for the top such as Quilting cotton, fine linen, silk or leather; a filling layer such as flannel, foam backed knit or synthetic wadding and a backing layer such as muslin, organdie or 2 mull. Thread is traditionally matched to the top layer in terms of fibre and Enriching, colour, silk with silk, but both fabric and thread can be varied. embellishing, 2. Transfer the design to the top layer of fabric using an appropriate method. and adorning Adding 3. If large pieces are to be quilted the layers need to be tacked together. Place the layers onto a surface and smooth the fabrics out from the 3 centre Pin and tack a grid pattern working Bedecked, again from the centre outwards. If quilting by hand, bedazzled, large pieces of fabric can be stretched in a frame. and bejeweled With small samples an embroidery hoop should Beading provide sufficient stability without tacking. 4. Stitch around the lines of the design, running or backstitches are traditionally 4 used for hand stitching, these create a subtly different effect on the surface Displacing, of the fabric than a machine-stitched line. extracting, and distressing Machine quilting can be done without a frame using a straight stitch, satin stitch, Subtracting chain stitch or other decorative line stitch. Many domestic machines have a quilting foot that allows for accurate spacing. A large stitch should be used and the machine pressure foot should be released slightly to prevent drag on the 5 material. Alternatively, the darning foot can be used to quilt using the free machining Constructing process and a frame to control. To secure wadding an overall pattern of stitches is creating, and joining necessary. Forming Wadded quilting can also be tied or buttoned to hold the padding in place. ▼ Contents ▲ 1.04 1 Wadded quilting worked in Sticku embroidery thread on Resurface, perforated grey suede using the Wilcom CADCAM embroidery reshape, and system, with Tatami fill and Accordion spacing stitch effect. restructure Manipulation Quilting 2 Enriching, embellishing, and adorning Adding 3 Bedecked, bedazzled, and bejeweled Beading 4 Displacing, extracting, and distressing Subtracting 5 Constructing creating, and joining Forming next example ▼ Contents 1 Resurface, reshape, and restructure Manipulation Quilting 2 Enriching, embellishing, and adorning Adding 3 Bedecked, bedazzled,