true sourdough bread by Min Kim foreword by Kim Schuette, CN FOREWORD a brief history of proper grain preparation In ancient Egypt about 6,000-10,000 years ago, man started creating mashes from grains which were ground, fermented, and then boiled into a porridge. This was the beginning of what we now call “bread.” A BRIEF HISTORY OF GRAIN PREPARATION NATURALLY LEAVENED One of Hippocrates’ most profound insights is quoted in Ancient people understood that grains needed to be soaked Nourishing Traditions. This was one of the first statements for at least 12 hours prior to being baked or cooked. This that I read in Nourishing Traditions many years ago, that step created grains that were easily digested and enjoyed. had a huge impact on our own understanding of grains. Grains should be soaked in an acid medium. This allows “I know, too, that the body is affected differently by bread for the activation of the enzyme phytase, which then according to the manner in which it is prepared. It differs breaks down the phytic acid, which is found in the bran according as it is made from pure flour or meal with bran, of grains. Phytic acid is an acid naturally present in grains whether it is prepared from winnowed or unwinnowed and legumes in which phosphorus is stored. Phytic acid wheat (winnowing is an ancient practice of separating the must be neutralized in order to prevent it from interfering wheat from the chaff, typically using a basket), whether it with mineral absorption. Tannins and lectins, which are is mixed with much water or little, whether well mixed or also present, can be very irritating and damaging to the poorly mixed, overbaked or underbaked, and countless other digestive tract. Traditional preparation processes break down points besides. The same is true of the preparation of barley the complex sugars, starches, and proteins in seed foods and meal. The influence of each process is considerable and each also begin the breakdown of cellulose, which is impossible has a totally different effect from another. for humans to digest. Therefore, proper preparation makes grains more digestible and their nutrients more available. How can anyone who has not considered such matters and come to understand them possibly know anything of the diseases that afflict mankind? Each one of the substances of a man’s diet acts upon his body and changes it in some way and upon these changes his whole life depends.” CHAPTER ONE get ready: stocking your kitchen “Theoretically a good cook should be able to perform under any circumstances, but cooking (baking) is so much easier, pleasanter, and more efficient if you have the right tools. Good equip- ment which will last for years does not seem outrageously expensive when you realize that a big, enameled-iron casserole costs no more than a 6 rib roast, that a large enameled skillet can be bought for the price of a leg of lamb, and that a fine paring knife may cost less than two small lamb chops.” -Julia Child, Mastering the Art of French Cooking GET READY: STOCKING YOUR KITCHEN NATURALLY LEAVENED MATERIAL LIST: Glass crock for starter Digital scale that measures in grams and can zero out (Oxo brand 11 lb. capacity, preferred) Instant thermometer Large glass/ceramic bowl Dough scraper Bench knife Banneton/brotform (proofing basket) Enameled cast iron Dutch oven (at least 5.5 quart) or cast iron combo cooker (Lodge) Clean lint-free towels/napkins Oven mitts that are heat resistant up to 500ºF Oven thermometer HELPFUL BUT NOT ESSENTIAL: Danish dough whisk Lame (scoring tool) Razor Small cutting board 8”wide Grain grinder CHAPTER TWO first things: making your starter The first step in making true, fermented sourdough bread is to make your starter. If you have a friend who can give you some starter, you can skip this step. If not, you simply need flour, water and time. FIRST THINGS: MAKING YOUR STARTER NATURALLY LEAVENED Making Starter Step by Step The best results for beginning a sourdough starter culture are obtained by using organic whole grain flours, especially rye, which is very high in nutrients and fermentable sugars. It is very difficult, if not impossible to begin a starter with all purpose flour. Mixing by hand will add more bacteria and yeast to your culture in a positive way, but is not necessary for success. Within a week, your starter should be ready to use for making bread, although it will be most reliable and have a better profile of flavors by 2-3 weeks. In the first week, there will be more homofermentative bacteria present (lactic acid with an abundance of yeast) but in a few weeks, more heterofermentative bacteria (lactic acid and acetic acid, a balance of yeast and bacteria, giving the bread more complex flavor) will have taken hold. Once well established, you can continue to feed it with your flour of choice, as well as adjust the hydration to your liking. For the recipe in this book, this starter will be maintained at 100% hydration (equal parts water/flour ratio in grams). FIRST THINGS: MAKING YOUR STARTER NATURALLY LEAVENED INGREDIENTS: with each feed. Whole grain organic rye flour • Scrape the inside of your container clean with a rubber spatula and mark the level of freshly mixed starter on the Spring water outside of your container with tape or a rubber band so you Tools: can track the activity. Digital scale DAY 7 1 quart mason jar • At this point you should be able to feed your starter with a larger amount of flour. DAY 1 • In a new container, measure out 50 grams of starter. Add 100 grams organic flour (50g wheat/50g rye) and 100-120 • Mix 100 grams whole grain rye flour and 160 grams water grams water and watch to see if the culture doubles and with a wooden spoon or chopsticks. falls. You will be feeding this twice a day. It’ll be ready to • Cover with lid and allow to sit for 24 hours. Place jar in use for bread, but will take 2-3 weeks for best results for an area where room temperature will remain consistently bread making. between 75º F- 80ºF (24ºC-27ºC). You can also use slightly warm water when mixing. Mixture should double and fall. STARTER STORAGE TIP DAY 2 • Keep away from other cultures (sauerkraut, kombucha, beet • Stir and discard 130 grams of mixture. kvass), compost bins, and moldy fruit by at least 6 feet in • Add 100 grams whole grain rye flour and 160 grams water order to avoid cross-contamination with other bacteria. and mix well. Cover with lid and let it sit for 24 hours. *Discarded starter can be used to make DAYS 3-6 waffles, pancakes or crackers. • Increase feedings to twice a day. Each time, stir mixture and discard 130 grams of starter and add 50 grams of whole grain rye flour and 80 grams of water and cover. Mixture should smell sweet and yeasty, and be doubling and falling FIRST THINGS: MAKING YOUR STARTER NATURALLY LEAVENED Starter Care MAINTAINING IN THE REFRIGERATOR If you decide to keep your starter in the refrigerator, you MAINTAINING AT ROOM TEMPERATURE will need to feed it once a week. If keeping at room temperature, feed your starter at least Take your starter out of the refrigerator. Remove 1/4 cup once a day, but twice is better, especially in warmer months. of starter and set aside. Discard remaining starter, and Using a digital scale, zero out the weight of your crock. rinse out container with hot water. Place clean container Add 50 g of organic all purpose flour and 50 g of spring/ on scale and zero out the weight. Add reserved 1/4 cup filtered water. Mix well and cover with cotton dishtowel or of starter, noting the weight in grams and adding equal napkin to absorb any condensation. Cover with lid. weight in grams of spring/filtered water and flour. Mix and If you keep your mixture at room temperature and feed allow to double in volume at room temperature. Return to daily, your starter will grow. Try not to let it accumulate to refrigerator to store. more than 2 cups. You can discard the extra starter or plan To bake bread, three room temperature feedings are to make pancakes, waffles, crackers, etc., with the excess. recommended prior to the bread making process in order to wake up the starter. For example, if you wanted to bake on Saturday, take the starter out of the refrigerator Thursday night, and follow the feeding instructions directly above, and leave it at room temperature. Feed it again with 50 g flour and 50 g spring/filtered water on Friday morning and Friday evening. It will be ready to use Saturday morning. CHAPTER THREE true sourdough bread I began this journey when my daughter became quite ill, with multiple sinus infections a year and many rounds of antibiotics. We removed all grains from her diet and placed her on the GAPS Diet to heal her gut with the goal of reintroduc- ing properly prepared grains when she was ready. I learned that the traditional method of making true sourdough bread makes it much easier for the body to digest. TRUE SOURDOUGH BREAD NATURALLY LEAVENED BUILD THE LEVAIN 25 grams starter 65 grams spring/filtered water 65 grams flour • In a clean, medium-sized glass bowl with straight sides or a one-pint (2 cup) mason jar, place 25 g starter, 65 g water, and 65 g flour. Mark the outside of the jar at the level of the levain with tape, rubber band or Sharpie.