Croatia Attend a fi lm festival or concert in Pula's Roman Amphitheater, once a battleground for gladiators. See chapter 9. Croatia Detailed maps throughout • Exact prices, directions, opening hours, and other practical information • Candid reviews of hotels and restaurants, plus sights, shopping, and nightlife • Itineraries, walking tours, and trip-planning ideas • Insider tips from local expert authors Find travel news & deals, expert advice, $21.99 USA/$25.99 CAN/£15.99 UK and connect with fellow travelers at 3rd Edition 3rd Edition both internationalandlocalcalls. For operatorassistance dial For directoryassistance phone cards( followed bythenumber. code. ForcallsfromoneCroatiancitytoanother,dialthecode, To makecallswithinCroatia: then thelocalnumber. Canada To makeinternationalcallsfromCroatia: the localnumber. Croatia's Canada To callCroatiafromanothercountry: 902 fornumberstoallothercountries. 1 011 , U.K. country code,385 ; U.K.,Ireland,andNewZealand telekarta subtract 32andmultiply 100˚F 110˚F 44 -20˚F -10˚F 10˚F 20˚F 32˚F 40˚F 50˚F 60˚F 70˚F 80˚F 90˚F To convertFtoC: To To convert C toF: To 0˚F , Ireland multiply by1.8 32˚F =0˚C by and add32 ) areavailableatanypostofficeornewskiosk. : Ifyouneedoperatorassistanceinmakingacall,dial : Dial 5 / Note 9 353 (.555) , thenthecitycodewithinitialzeroomitted,plus 988 For localcalls,simplydialthenumberwithoutcity , Australia : Croatianpayphonesdonotacceptcoins;pre-paid 0˚C 10˚C 20˚C 30˚C 40˚C -10˚C ifyou'relookingforanumberinsidethecountry; -30˚C -18˚C Dial the 61 Dial , NewZealand 00 00 international accesscode ; Australia To convert To Liters toimperialgallons Imperial gallonstoliters Imperial gallonstoU.S. U.S. gallonstoimperial Liters toU.S.gallons U.S. gallonstoliters kilometers tomiles miles tokilometers meters toyards yards tometers meters tofeet feet tometers centimeters toinches inches tocentimeters To convert To Kilograms topounds Pounds tokilograms Grams toounces Ounces tograms To convert To plus thecountrycode(U.S.or 1ft.=.30m 1m =3.3ft. 1 pound=.4555kilogram 1 U.S.gallon=3.8liters 1 kilogram=2.2pounds 1 liter=.26U.S.gallon 1 ounce=28grams 1 gram=.04ounce 0011 64 ..................... .................... .. ................... ), plustheareacode, ............................... ................................ ............................. .............................. ), followedby .......................... ........................ ........................ ....................... ....................... ...................... 1mile=1.6km ...................... 1km =.62mile ................... ..................... ................... .............. multiply by ............... multiply by multiply by (U.S. and ... .... 28.35 4.55 1.20 1.61 1.09 .91 3.28 .30 .39 2.54 2.20 .035 901 .22 .83 .26 3.8 .62 .45 for Kaposvár Čakovec Tarviso HUNGARY Subotica ROMANIA Varaždin Koprivnica Pécs D Krapina a n va R Đurđevac u a . Drava b Križevci T S R e i . Oroslavje R Sombor s Udine Ljubljana Bjelovar a Vrbovec . Virovitica Vrbas R SLOVENIA Zaprešić . Gorizia ZAGREB Čazma Slatina ITALY Samobor Osijek Velika Đurđenovac Gorica Daruvar Našice Vukovar Novi Sad Trieste CROATIA Treviso Sisak Ilok Koper Karlovac Petrinja Požega Đakovo Vinkovci Novska Vrpolje Glina Ruma Umag Rijeka Slavonski Županja Venice Opatija Ogulin Brod A . Bosanski R R BELGRADE Poreč Pazin Crikvenica Novi . s a R Brčko Krk Prijedor a n a r v . b s Sa Rovinj Labin R Krk r o D e Senj V B a Cres n K n V i Otočac Banja Luka r e Bihać r v SERBIA Pula Cres Rab l U Tuzla D a e a n R Rab b a r BBOSNIA O S N I A AAND N D v i R n t . Valjevo K e Unije M r Gospić o I i Pag u ć Pag n t a Zenica Srebrenica i n Ravenna A Olib s HERZEGOVINA Užice Bugojno Zadar Kraljevo T Knin SARAJEVO Rimini Dugi Goražde Otok Biograd I Konjic SAN MARINO Kornat Šibenik Sinj Prijepolje C Žirje Trogir Split Mostar Supetar Šolta Brač Makarska Hvar Hvar Metković Ivangrad Vis Pelješac Ploče ITALY S MONTENEGRO Korčula Nikšić Perugia Korčula Trebinje E Lastovo 0 50 mi Mljet Dubrovnik Cavtat N A Podgorica ALBANIA 0 50 km Herceg Novi Croatia 3rd Edition by Dr. Karen Tormé Olson with Sanja Bažulić Olson 01_541289-ffirs.indd i 3/29/10 7:47 PM Published by: WILEY PUBLISHING, INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2010 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. 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Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 01_541289-ffirs.indd ii 3/29/10 7:47 PM CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BEST OF CROATIA 1 1 The Best Travel Experiences . .1 7 The Best Beaches . .5 2 The Best Natural Wonders. .2 8 The Most Charming Rustic 3 The Best Open-Air Markets . .3 Villages . .5 4 The Best Small Hotels & Inns . .3 9 The Best Cathedrals & Churches. .6 5 The Best Big Luxury Hotels . .4 10 The Best Castles. .6 6 The Best Roman Ruins . .5 11 The Best Restaurants . .7 2 CROATIA IN DEPTH 9 1 Croatia Today . .9 4 Croatia in Books, Film & Music. .19 2 Looking Back at Croatia . .10 5 Eating & Drinking in Croatia . .20 3 Croatia’s Art & Architecture. .17 3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CROATIA 23 1 When to Go. .23 7 Specialized Travel Resources . .36 Calendar of Events . .24 8 Sustainable Tourism. .40 2 Entry Requirements . .26 General Resources for 3 Getting There & Getting Around . 28 Green Travel . .42 4 Money & Costs. .33 9 Staying Connected. .43 5 Health . .35 10 Special-Interest Trips & Tours . .44 6 Safety . .36 11 Tips on Accommodations. .47 4 CROATIA REGIONS & SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 49 1 The Regions in Brief . .49 3 Zagreb & Beyond in 1 Week . .54 Shipwreck Diving . .52 4 Dubrovnik & Beyond in 1 Week. .56 2 A Weekend in Zagreb . .53 02_541289-ftoc.indd iii 3/29/10 7:47 PM iv 5 DUBROVNIK 59 1 Orientation . .59 Down-Home Dubrovnik. .82 Fast Facts: Dubrovnik . .61 Dalmatia Dish Decoder . .84 Nature’s Waiting Room. .63 2 Dubrovnik Day Trips. .89 Who Is St. Blaise?. .69 Wine Road Detour . .97 Walking Tour: Dubrovnik’s What Happened at Međugorje? . 100 Stradun . .70 6 LOWER DALMATIA 101 1 Orientation . 101 Biokovo Nature Park . 127 2 Split. 101 6 Brač. 129 Fast Facts: Split . 104 7 Hvar . 134 Exploring the Palace . 108 The Rest of Hvar . 141 Split Walking Tours. 110 8 Korčula . 143 CROATIA 3 Salona . 118 Moreška Sword Dance . 147 4 Trogir . 120 The Rest of Korčula. 148 5 Makarska Riviera . 126 9 Vis . 148 7 UPPER DALMATIA 155 CONTENTS 1 Orientation . 155 Bishop Gregorius of Nin . 179 2 Senj & the Velebit . 156 The Zadar Archipelago. 181 3 Pag Island . 158 7 Biograd Na Moru. 182 Pag Patterns. 162 8 Kornati National Park . 183 4 Zadar . 165 9 Šibenik . 184 Fast Facts: Zadar. 168 Rest in Peace . .185 5 Zadar Environs . 177 Krka National Park . 186 6 Paklenica National Park & Nin . 177 8 THE KVARNER GULF 189 1 Rijeka . 189 5 Baška & Environs . 210 Rijeka’s MorčićI (Moretto, Moro). 190 6 Rab Island. 212 2 Crikvenica & Novi Vinodolski . 195 Church Hours. 215 3 The Opatija Riviera . 197 7 Cres & Lošinj Islands. 217 4 Krk Island . 206 02_541289-ftoc.indd iv 3/29/10 7:47 PM v 9 ISTRIA 225 1 Orientation . 226 7 Novigrad (Cittanova) . 253 2 Pula (Pola). 228 8 Umag (Umago) & Church of St. Fosca (Sveti Foška). 233 Savudrija (Salvore) . 256 3 Brijuni Archipelago (Brioni) . 235 9 Inland Istria . 259 4 Vodnjan (Dignano) . 236 10 Pazin (Pisino). 260 5 Rovinj (Rovigno) . 237 11 Grožnjan, Buje & Momjan . 262 On the (Wine & Olive Oil) Road . 263 Grisia Street Standout . 239 The Legend of St. Euphemia . 240 12 Motovun, Livade & Oprtalj . 265 Istarske Toplice, Roc, What’s Your Wine IQ? . 243 13 Hum & Buzet . 268 Vrsar (Orsera) & Environs . 245 Black (& White) Gold . .269 6 Poreč (Parenzo) . 245 CROATIA The Legend of Baredine Cave . 248 10 ZAGREB 271 1 Essentials . 271 Ivan Meštrović (1883–1962) . 283 The Neighborhoods in Brief. 273 Heart of the Matter . 285 CONTENTS Fast Facts: Zagreb. 275 Zagreb Shopping Malls . 286 2 What to See & Do . 277 3 Where to Stay. 287 Marija Jurić Zagorka . 280 4 Where to Dine . 294 Lenuci’s Horseshoe . 281 5 Zagreb After Dark . 302 11 EXCURSIONS FROM ZAGREB 304 1 Orientation . 304 7 Marija Bistrica, Kumrovec & 2 Excursions South of Zagreb .