Producer profile GROSSET WINES Four decades on, this pioneering Clare Valley producer’s commitment to making world-class Riesling is unwavering – a goal that’s led its founder to embrace biodynamics, blockchain projects and more. By David Sly he single-minded pursuit of time his electrician father brought a bottle of purity in Riesling expression is wine home from a friend who worked at the Jeffrey Grosset’s obsession, Leo Buring winery and shared it over dinner although it’s not manic energy with the family. Soon, Grosset started working Tthat fuels his relentless engine. The quietly during school holidays at a winery bottling spoken, self-effacing Clare winemaker’s room, spending his earnings on wine for intrinsic nature is to be contemplative and cellaring – which he stored in a disused analytical rather than demonstrative. It means fireplace. At 16, he began studying oenology that even on the 40th anniversary of the and agricultural science at Roseworthy College, founding of his wine company, devoted South Australia’s prestigious winemaking primarily to making elite Riesling, his relentless academy. By 21, he was working as a qualified focus on quality keeps him questioning every winemaker; at 26, he was a head winemaker at aspect of winemaking and production – and Lindeman’s massive Karadoc winery in how he could possibly make it better. Mildura – and then he decided it was time to The 40-year journey has scaled dizzy go his own way, driven by the goal of making heights for a man who came into wine with exemplary Riesling. scant resources and no vinous pedigree, save ‘I grew to love the characteristics of that for the life-altering experience of trying a wine, and I harboured a frustration that classic Leo Buring Riesling at the age of 15 and Riesling wasn’t acknowledged. I couldn’t realising immediately that emulating such an understand why. Once I focused on Riesling, exquisite wine would constitute his life’s work. many people seemed amazed. Some thought I Grosset has never questioned whether his was some sort of a maverick. I certainly didn’t An autumnal view of Grosset’s Riesling wine epiphany as a 15-year-old was a delusion. pursue this as a strategy to chase a niche vineyards in the Polish Hill River region His commitment to the goal has always been, interest. I made the wines I loved. In the early and remains, absolute – and it was this years, a UK wine critic asked me why I dedication that made him International specialised in an unloved grape variety, and GROSSET WINES ‘I grew to love the characteristics Riesling Winemaker of the Year in 1998. that really took me aback. Sorry? What do you AT A GLANCE mean? Just look at the wines!’ Founded 1981 of Riesling, and I harboured a The early years A crucial attribute of Grosset’s initial Owner and chief A 1981 photograph of Grosset, taken in the release in 1981 was two Rieslings from winemaker frustration that it wasn’t winery he had just created from a former dairy different Clare Valley locations – the revered Jeffrey Grosset and butter factory in Auburn, a southern Watervale district, with its distinctive lemon- Production 132,000 acknowledged. I couldn’t gateway town to the Clare Valley in South lime characteristics, and the stony, austere bottles annually (25% Australia, illustrates how far a winemaker can Polish Hill River region that showed additional allocated for export); Jeffrey Grosset (left) travel with an uncompromising perfectionist richness and texture. It was an unheard-of 70% of production is understand why’ streak. The earnest, beardy 26-year-old with commercial decision at that time. ‘I saw such devoted to Riesling stringy hair and a rock-hard stare had only distinctive attributes in the fruit from each Vineyards 21ha of Clare four big steel storage tanks wrapped in site that I saw no point blending them Valley estate vineyards, improvised insulation blankets in the big, together. I wanted people to see them side-by- plus Chardonnay and elevation Gaia site in 1986, while he continued Based in Adelaide, barren shed. But even then, he already had a side, so I just went ahead and bottled them Pinot Noir sourced from to buy Riesling fruit from other growers. A David Sly is an awarded clear purpose and ambition. separately.’ It started a new serious 3ha of Adelaide Hills decade later, he knew exactly what he wanted. food and wine writer ‘In my view, you don’t make any compromises conversation about Riesling in Australia. vineyards He planted three Riesling clones on 8ha at who specialises in the at any point – or else why bother at all?’ offers Polish Hill River and then 6ha at Springvale, regional produce of Grosset, before admitting with a solemn nod The way of the vine a site adjacent to, and slightly more elevated South Australia that this absolute commitment has been to his The pursuit of excellence soon took Grosset than, the region’s famed Watervale district. personal detriment. ‘Yes, my wife and family beyond his winery and into the vineyard, ‘As soon as my wine brand got momentum, will attest to that. Devotion to achieve my understanding that he needed to invest in I wanted to plant vines,’ explains Grosset, who absolute best in wine has always come first.’ planting and tending his own vines to fully adopted organic viticulture principles two What prompted all this? It was the love of realise his winemaking vision. Curiously, he years after establishing his vineyards, Photograph: Mick Rock/Cephas Mick Photograph: something pure that struck Grosset from the first planted Cabernet Sauvignon on the high- achieving full organic certification in 2014, ➢ 52 | February 2021 • Decanter Decanter • February 2021 | 53 Producer profile GROSSET WINES: A TIMELINE 1981 26-year-old Clare Valley classics: Sly’s Grosset Riesling vertical Jeffrey Grosset buys a former Auburn dairy and 1 Grosset, Polish Hill Riesling, and such a heady perfume points towards suggesting strong potential for cellaring. uses Clare Valley fruit Clare Valley, South Australia 2020 98 a similarly rich palate. Intense juicy lime is Drink 2021-2040 Alc 11.8% to make his first wines: £33.85-£42 Exel, Liberty Wines, The Good carried on a tight acid spine that also bears dry Watervale and Wine Shop mineral notes of shale and schist. Complex Grosset, Polish Hill Riesling, Polish Hill Rieslings, a The clean, fresh aromas of just-picked citrus yet crisp and very persistent. Drink Clare Valley, South Australia 2018 96 late-harvest Riesling fruits belie the enormous power of lime 2021-2050 Alc 12.5% £37.99 (2019) Widely available via UK agent and Cabernet Sauvignon juice and rich lemon pith that immediately Liberty Wines fills the front palate on this latest vintage. Grosset, Springvale Riesling, A full, rich nose – with lavender, fresh herb 1986 Grosset buys There’s poise in addition to the power Clare Valley, South Australia 2019 95 and bright, zesty lime – suggests power, Grosset’s high-elevation Gaia vineyard land and plants his Gaia though, with multiple layers of rounded £26.45-£28.99 Widely available via UK agent yet the palate opens to a more gentle vineyard with 2ha of citrus and mineral flavours enjoying a Liberty Wines weave of tightly integrated flavours. A Cabernets Sauvignon and biodynamic certification in 2019. ‘There’s finding vintages subjected to wild mood luxurious textural roll through the A low-yielding harvest in 2019 ensured rich mid-palate has a hint of lemon pith and Franc. At 560m, it’s a limit to what you can achieve by giving swings or uncontrollable dips and peaks. mid-palate. Perfect integration of fresh potent concentration of both aromas and among intense brown lime and cool slate, the highest vineyard in directions to an independent grower. I wanted ‘With knowledge and experience comes citric acid carries the pure fruit qualities flavours, without veering away from the all carried on a mighty girder of acid on a the Clare Valley to go above and beyond that. I wanted to do greater control,’ says Grosset. through extraordinary length to a crisp, clean citrus purity that is a Springvale lengthy spine. Bone-dry, intense, everything on my terms.’ Still, winemakers must decide whether to lip-smacking finish. Drink 2021-2050 Riesling hallmark. The influence of heady persistent; leaves the mouth thirsty for 1996 He plants the Grosset has been applauded as an early pursue purity over complexity. Grosset’s Alcohol 12.9% lemon blossom, lemongrass and lime juice more. Drink 2021-2050 Alc 12.5% 8ha Polish Hill vineyard adopter of sustainable practices, but he admits instinct is to follow purity – yet an exception is strong and persistent on the palate to Riesling and it was less about making an environmental to the rule is manifest in the 2020 vintage 2 Grosset, Springvale Riesling, through to a mouth-puckering finish Grosset, Springvale Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon statement and more a case of chasing purity in Alea off-dry Riesling. The shifting profile of Clare Valley, South Australia 2020 96 thanks to crisp, cleansing acidity – which Clare Valley, South Australia 2018 97 his wines. ‘I have to admit that caring for the this wine style over its eight vintages stems £26.75-£29.99 Exel, Liberty Wines suggests an especially long life in the £26.99 Liberty Wines, The Secret Cellar 1998 Grosset is environment wasn’t my motive at all. It was all from an idea that formed after tasting fruit as From the first gentle whiff of pretty citrus cellar. Drink 2021-2050 Alc 12.8% Purity personified in Riesling that speaks voted International a question of how could I make a better wine.